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Radiator mountings
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On my GTO build I've decided to relocate the radiator from the engine bay (see photo) to forward of the radiator surround - it was becoming too crowded in the bay. To enable the body to fit I need to mount the radiator about 120mm forward of the surround (above the stringline in the photo).
Before fabricating a mount/s I wonder if anyone has info or photos of how the mountings work on a Cobra kit. Thanks |
My radiator has 2 pins on the bottom which drop into a couple of donut shaped rubbers on the chassis, the top uses the same rubbers on tabs soldered to the radiator that a couple of struts then tie back to the chassis.
Pretty simple really. Saw about 27 GTO's the other day, common as I tell you!! |
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These GTOs? - One was bent in a road accident on the way from Reims to Le Mans (the blue one with yellow stripe ) but you can't find a photo of it anywhere - a coverup of CIA proportions. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...car-crash.html |
There was a blue one off to the LHS of all the others, it also didn't take part in the parade so I'd say it was the one.
They sounded great on the track. I'll go out on a limb and say yours will sound better, but we both know that's a lie! |
Is it necesary to earth the radiator? Also is it best to paint it black or leave it natural ali?
JD |
You probably want to fit a sacrificial anode to the radiator (or cooling system somewhere) so any stray current gets sopped up by the anode and electrolysis (?) doesn't corrode your aluminium radiator and engine.
Galvanic anode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Painting the radiator black might be good for appearance if that is your thing, but being black it will hold on to more heat than raw aluminium (or painted white!). Personally I like the look of an aluminium radiator. |
Radiator mount
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After my crash repairs the engineer added a support frame for the radiator in place of bolt in fittings as provided by the original chassis manufacturer.
Installation matches others earlier descriptions in that the radiator is pinned and these mate into rubber donuted holes top and bottom in the radiator frame. Lower part of the frame is bolted into place once the radiator is inserted into the upper frame portion. Obviously to suit your application some though would be needed to make up an equivalent frame but am sure it is all do-able. Attachment 20732 Attachment 20733 Pictures may be a little small but I can't access my photobucket account at present so these will have to do. Could send large photos via email if you wish just PM me if needed. Cheers Slo |
Fit return straps to everything.
I have one on the gearbox, two on the engine and one on the radiator. I don't have an anode, and don't have electrolosys problems. |
Bingo Gav, if correctly earthed then no need for anode, they are a bandaid fix
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I'll be fitting one anyway (and the earth straps) as I'd rather find out my anode is gone than find a corroded engine. Cheap insurance.
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Thank you Stephen and others.
Mounting in front of the surround was too problematic with bodywork and access issues, etc, so I tried Plan 'B'. I ditched the OTR cold air intake which required the radiator to be set back towards the block and made a frog-mouth intake which allows the radiator to be moved forward in the engine bay. This leaves far more space for the hoses, etc. |
Ben, make sure you fit an inline filter, as the anode doesn't just "disappear" the metal corrodes and the particles will be floating about in the cooling system.
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