Ross

I had Marty G. weld on weldable AN fittings to give me that threaded capability. In some of the early photos you can see a rusted thread on one of them near the oil filler cap.

It was all part of the plan to dispense with as much rubber hose as possible.

The original idea being braided bling but if I had my time again, I'd now use that nice black covered hose maybe with silver fittings else black.

The old red/blue combo was all that was around when I started.

There will still be some of this in place for the moment but I'd like to replace all this for consistency sometime in the future.

Slo

Slo, if the body repair gets the better of you, one of my guys os really good with composites. He both builds and repairs fibreglass and carbon race cars.

And if you're thinking of having the car painted following repair, I'd be happy to give you a quote if interested.

Cheers
Sime

Sime

I might have confused you with the crash photo as that was taken back in 2008 but if you look through this whole post you can see the car returning back to normal now albeit still yet to hit the road again.

So thanks for the repair offer but the car is well past that now. I am actually well versed in fibreglass repair and in fact I had to dismantle my race yacht photographed above to re-skin the inside of the hull in carbon after discovering faulty workmanship.

As to painting the cobra, the body has previously been fully prepared as part of the repair process by another club member and so I'm committed to his finishing the job.

I thought from other posts you were based in Sydney or is that not right?

Anyway thanks for the offer regardless.

Cheers

Steve

Stephen, get your head out of the water and spend more time in the garage. ;)
It's really starting to take shape, keep us up to date with the pictures they're great!

Regards.

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the clarification. No probs with the other person doing the car...I understand completely!

I'm very much based in Melbourne. My bodyshop is located in Moorabbin, just off South Road, down the road from Mebourne's Cheapest Cars.

Cheers,
Sime (Simon)

Thanks Simon did later note your Melbourne location, not sure why I thought NSW but all's good.

And yes Mando with the boat still returning from WA I've had a very successful last week off work on the car.

As of yesterday I had both left and right front mud-guard wiring notionally laid out in place and had started to add extensions to some of the loom until I realised I really needed the loom fairly accurately located.

Because of the thick bodywork I decided I'd create large access holes through the firewall and rear of the wheel arches to run the loom up under the highest point along each side guard.

To cover these holes I am attaching SS rings which also hold the rubber grommets through which the looms pass. It is easier to find grommets to fit over 1.6 - 2 mm SS than 10+ mm fibreglass.

Anyway I now just have to finish mounting the LH wheel arch SS ring and grommet and sikaflex my loom mounting tabs on the LH guard and can then recommence running all the wiring to length.

With this work done there is a little work needed on the engine loom and I am almost about there.

I'll then test the wiring system to confirm whether everything is good to go.

Once it is all good I'll re-wrap up the loom and will be ready for an engine start.

I am very happy with the progress and it is keeping me motivated to continue.

Cheers

Slo

Further wiring progress
 

The photos wont be much to look at but for me they represent another good milestone.

Sadly the new role really is biting into my time at present but I manage some visits to the poor beastie each week.

So essentially finished the wiring runs underneath both the passenger and driver side guards from firewall through to the headlights.

Have stuck cable tie points with sikaflex to the highest points along the body work and created large bezel and grommet access points through the bodywork for the wiring runs. I did this as I wasn't at all keen to try and unpick electrical plugs off the ends of the loom cables.

This also saved me the pain of trying to find grommets capable of spanning 10mm + thick fibreglass. I did look but there are very limited options out there.

So to the happy snaps.

Driver side run within the wheel arch area.

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdb879820.jpg

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/s...psbca4ffa1.jpg

Got a little tricky with the wire run down to that lower frame. I ground open the gap between the air vent hole and inside guard skin. The cables in the photo are only hanging in front of this gap but when I push them in they will be hidden from any outside view. A dab of sikaflex and they wont come out in a hurry.

And the equivalent passenger side run but in the engine bay area leading forward from the firewall.

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/s...psc07a0903.jpg

And an example of the bezel - grommet arrangement. Simply decided to drill and tap the fibreglass as there was plenty of thickness to allow the 4mm bolts to easily hold the SS plates. Not sure if I'll taken them off and polish the SS once ready though.




http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps7b886ee5.jpg

A silly thermo sensor I originally used means I've still to thread two wires on the drivers side to operate the thermo fan off a radiator twin pole sensor but that should not be any great issue and it is truelly done bar the testing.

Next is a revisit into the engine bay proper and then I'll be ready for a first arcs and sparks test.

Enjoy

Slowly those air horns are awesome... Possibly not db legal but they do the job nicely when some idiot is sitting in the fast lane talking on his / her phone doing 90....

I believe they are legal Towwy.

Hope so anyway as I put one on the XR8 years ago to replace the crappy standard Ford squeaker.

Go it as it was a pretty compact unit for the noise it makes and simply electrically powered. Brand or model is Nautilus if I remember rightly and I can recommend them.

And yes hung it on the drivers side to wake up the nobs driving and sleeping at the same time.

Closer
 

Slowly,

Great news about the new job firstly..........

Making good progress, shall I charge my phone for the engine start :D:D




Stiffy

Thanks Stiff

At least I'm making money so I can spend it - ha

Shame about the lack of time I now have, looking back life was good in the corporates - never mind.

As to phone charging I think you can hold off for a bit but I will be taking video of my second restart that is for sure.

Or is it a number one start again given the rejuvinated and unstarted engine I have now??

Just thinking in advance too, how would Vicroads react to me turning up to get my VIN and engine numbers checked for re-registration with no seat trimming.

Do cushions count as legal seat trimming - lol ?????????????

I'd be curious to hear thoughts on this, though I suspect I know the sensible answer but fire away folks.

Slo

They're terrific!

I've got one in the Cobra and one on my bike.

slowly
where did you get those air horns from as I would like one
haven't seen that stile before
& do they have a web site
rob
ps nice build keep up the good work

Yeah me too. On the bike. Like Donunder. VERY effective at making yourself seen/heard/noticed when riding. I get some interesting looks when they hear the enormous noise and look over to see a motorbike instead!

Work is looking good slowy!

Guys

The horn is a nautilus model made by Stebel out of Italy.

Italians know how to use their horns so it should be good.

Think I got mine from a local auto shop for about $50 but I see them on ebay and elsewhere for about $42. Mine is a single tone job but I dont know if a two tone variant is made or even a second lower tone model.

Rated at 139dB and simply 12V powered.

Good bang (or noise) for your buck.

Didn't need one of these on my old ZX6 kwaka as it came with the loudest legal exhaust and was the best little noisemaker.

Officially tested at 93dB but when you blipped 6K of revs people turned their heads. That saved me a few times on the bike that's for sure.

A quick update folks.

My mad mate who was going to help me check out my wiring is chasing his big boat dream and drove across to Bundaberg last week to check out his new 12m yacht.

So it inspired me to get in touch with my original sparky and he dropped in last Friday to check out what is needed to be done.

With luck he will be in my shed next Saturday hopefully putting the finishing touches to my wiring.

I've spent today wrapping up the finished rear loom segments and putting it all back in place ready for testing.

My sparky will ensure all the engine bay components are finished off and then check out the whole system.

Might have to prepare for restart number two.

Hoping for a good weekend outcome next Saturday. We will see!!

Cheers

Steve

Gang

It has dawned on me that even assuming my sparky does make it to my shed Saturday and my wiring appears to be all good to go after his checks, that a re-start attempt will have to be at a later date.

My set up is not fully complete, with exhaust part dismantled, manifold not bolted in place, no fluids and so forth.

In advance of this last work however I am chasing feedback on suggested fluids to use for cooling, engine and transmission oils, brake and clutch fluids.

Engine is a 5L AU windsor, gearbox a TKO600, running an alloy radiator, brakes include Jag bits and std clutch master-slave system.

What would the collective recommend using in each case, particularly the Tremec TKO as the most unknown to me?

Cheers

Slo

Slowy, usually you can't go wrong with what the manufacturer recommends:

TREMEC Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

"For all TKO 5-speed models, TREMEC recommends GM Synchromesh (GM Part # 12345349). For all other aftermarket models we recommend Dexron III ATF"

Alloy radiator usually means the red coolant not the green. I'm using this stuff:

Red Long Life Concentrated Coolant- Nulon Australia

Dot 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid should be fine, just don't mix either with DOT 5 which is silicone based.

One of the Ford guys will chime in re engine oil but I imagine you'd want mineral based (non synth) for 1000km or so while you run in that new motor.

Now you have most of your answers - quit stalling! :D

Any info needed on the Tremec.....talk to Mal Wood, or "mrs flatchat" on the forum,
( That's Chris Hatfield...he works at Mal Woods )

Mal Wood Automotive - About Us

Cheers,
Warren

Thanks guys that will get me started.

Paul what's the value of the red coolant over the green? Think I used red for the first time in my son's golf recently but only as it was recommended by the VW good book in the glove box.

I'm assuming better corrosion control characteristics or similar - no?

As for stalling, I'd love to be able to stall the devil naturally!!