Just search "radiator overflow tank" on ebay. They have all sizes, 3"x10", 2"x15", 2"x17" etc, round, rectangular etc. Radiator Overflow Tank 17" X 2" Polished Stainless Steel Sealed CAP Coolant | eBay

I have one of these installed in my mustang. I can pop over and show you what it looks like in the flesh.

Cheers

Don

Just got back home to a lovely 35 degrees in Newcastle from Goulburn.

Great couple of days in Goulburn at Wakefield (excluding the self proclaimed idiot that thought he was going to ruin our families weekend by telling us we couldn't go down pit lane like last year, thankfully Mark H. sorted this for everyone who had grief from this peanut)

Many thanks again to Andrew and Gavin for their hospitality (Tenrocca and Gav)to keep the family occupied and the rides. Couldn't stop Thomas talking about his new found heros Andrew and Gavin ;)

Got a preliminary thumbs up for next years Shelbyfest - Gav :)

Been moving steadily along. I had an alternator clearance issue where the pulley hit the chassis brace because my chassis was built prior to the LSA coming onto the market (the LSA sits a little further forward in the engine bay). Pace were great and sent me down a complete new brace that I could use as needed, but the fix was achieved by notching the support bracket and TIG welding in filler metal. I was then able to mount the alternator and run all the belts.

I fitted the tailshaft and completed the fuel system by mounting the pumps and the filter. I had to use some spacers to raise the mounting plate as the rear neck initially wanted to hit the diff cage.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps7n007mri.jpg

I also bled the brake and clutch system with a pressure bleeder that made things so much easier! I also fabricated a plate to mount the ECU and fuse box, and then ran the engine harness through the firewall.

On Sunday, I trailered the Cobra to an auto electrician who specialises in hotrods and race cars. He was referred by a friend who is involved in the hotrod scene. Chris is going to be wiring up the car, fitting heated seats, will fit my stereo, the immobiliser, steering lock controller and seatbelt timer. He expects to have the car completed by Cup Day weekend.

Because my heater occupies the space where the battery is suggested to be located, I chose to mount it in the boot above the fuel pressure regulator.


http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswnjdvnen.jpg

Wiring has commenced! Chris is very efficient and had made great progress in a short amount of time. These pics are from last night and he spent the whole day on the car today so no doubt he's achieved a whole lot more.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psxvrs2pa4.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psiu5kxmdz.jpg

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...psjl2byv4a.jpg

Once the wiring is completed, technically the car will be ready for it's first start. I'm just waiting on my headers before I can do that.

Looking good Sime.

I must admit I do like the battery placement. That space is just wasted otherwise (unless you make a glove compartment there).

I reckon you should make those bolt heads under the fuel pump/filter mount less protruding if you can, to save stuff snagging. I shortened my bolts a bit so they didn't penetrate too far up (actually I used shorter, round head hex bolts instead so they're even smoother).

But that's just a thought I had with mine anyway.

Looking good Simon.

Those spacers you used to lift the Fuel pumps for clearance look fine...good solution.

This is a consequence of the chassis being one of the very first, being matched to current finishing kit parts.
Soon after your chassis, there were some slight changes which would alleviate this.

i.e. It won't be an issue on almost every other chassis that we've produced since then...
Thought I'd say something before others start putting spacers and then wondering why they have any probs fitting them.

That battery placement works...you could also move it to behind the seat, if you ever wanted to use that space for the custom storage compartment etc.

Good work mate,

Cheers,
Warren

Yeah, mine is chassis 39 and I have no clearance issues at all.:cool:

Hi Simon

I am wondering will you be able to remove the battery from the position it is in now when the body is fitted to chassis.

Cheers

Brad

I just noticed that there aren't any washers on the brake balance bar. I almost forgot mine. They are to prevent the push rod knuckles binding at extreme angles. It's still amazing how much work goes into a car. Even on a production car it takes a lot of man hrs.
JD

Thanks Guy. I was going to put a glove compartment in but decided against it. I'd rather have the stereo accessible and the boot looking clean as I'm not sure that whether I am going to carpet it. So that was the only place left really to fit the battery.

Good point re the cap head bolts. I'll source some round head cap bolts.

Thanks for the encouragement Warren! I don't mind engaging the brain to adapt and overcome to little challenges like this. I needed to find a way to get the rear log clearance plus the tunnel has a small peak which didn't allow the plate to be mounted flat anyways. The spacers solved both issues in one shot. :)

Re the battery, I don't think I'll have any issues removing it in future if needed Brad. Well, at least I hope not! %/ I have chosen to fit my stereo vertically behind the passenger seat in an aluminium case that will also house the 12V adapter and kill switch. It will have a lid too and be carpeted. I'll make some vents for it but it shouldn't get too hot because I am running pre-outs to the amp plus will only really be steaming music via Bluetooth or through the USB so the CD mechanism won't be used much.

Great pickup JD. Thanks. I didn't even know they were supposed to be there, but it does make sense. I'll check the Tilton box to see if I have them. If not, I'll just go and buy some.

Great pickup JD. Thanks. I didn't even know they were supposed to be there, but it does make sense. I'll check the Tilton box to see if I have them. If not, I'll just go and buy some.[/quote]

Simon, Have a look at Wilwood or Tilton bias adjustment cable. I think they are a must...with a balance bar. Muz

On the stero, was in autobarn the other day. They have an amp(wattage up to you) and Bluetooth radio box that fits out of sight. Streams from your phone/iPod, can be put in the boot/dash/console if need be, very small and compact.

Looks really good Simon, have you had much contact with Tom at enkelmans?

Simon, Have a look at Wilwood or Tilton bias adjustment cable. I think they are a must...with a balance bar. Muz[/quote]

Muz, my engineer said you can't have one of those as "the driver is not allowed to adjust the bias whilst driving etc" So in theory only the balance bar that is adjusted when vehicle is stationary etc using the spanners etc.

(I have one installed though but only connected "When on the race track")

Disclaimer: This is what I was told by VASS engineer - I am no expert on ADRs etc.

cheers

Gregg

I asked my engineer and he said it should be fine to fit an dash adjuster. I'm not going to bother fitting one. Even still. The bar can still drift sideways even if you use locknuts. The rose joint inside the brake pedal sleeve is free to move side to side.
JD

Some states require that the balance bar be made non adjustable (welded) after the certifying engineer is satisfied with the brake bias.

You can't really set the bias up properly until you've bedded in the brakes after a couple hundred k's anyway. It feels like you live in 7 different countries in Ozz. Sucks. I guess in the States it'll be worse?
JD

Sime, your build is looking great, I've been using your pics as a reference for my own build. Keep up the awesome Work!

True. I know that in the USA, at least California is a different country!

:JEKYLHYDE ;)

I just noticed that there aren't any washers on the brake balance bar. I almost forgot mine. They are to prevent the push rod knuckles binding at extreme angles. It's still amazing how much work goes into a car. Even on a production car it takes a lot of man hrs.
JD

Simon, Have a look at Wilwood or Tilton bias adjustment cable. I think they are a must...with a balance bar. Muz

Muz, my engineer said you can't have one of those as "the driver is not allowed to adjust the bias whilst driving etc" So in theory only the balance bar that is adjusted when vehicle is stationary etc using the spanners etc.

(I have one installed though but only connected "When on the race track")

Disclaimer: This is what I was told by VASS engineer - I am no expert on ADRs etc.

Some states require that the balance bar be made non adjustable (welded) after the certifying engineer is satisfied with the brake bias.



Hi Guys,

Just to address a couple of comments/suggestions regarding that pic of Simon's brake bias /pedals.

There's no need on these Tilton pedal boxes for any washers...Tilton don't recommend nor supply them, as the radius of the surfaces etc., don't allow any binding issue.
There was a comment suggesting that the push rods would bind when they reach "extreme angles"...I guess that means if the front brake push rod and the rear brake push rods are adjusted to push as completely different levels??

My understanding is that these two push rods "almost" push as the same time...i.e. not one pushing for an inch or so, and then the other one kicking in.

They"almost" should be pushing at the same time.
( Hope that makes some sort of sense)

And with regards to being able to set up some sort of "remote" adjustment, and also a fixed/welded bar....and whether that complies with the ADR requirements....

Craig has offered the following info.....

For explanation purposes, I have used simple terminology.

For registration compliance it fundamentally comes down to whether the change is performed by adjustment or by modification.

Adjustments are performed by changing or manipulating a hand control such as button, knob etc. It is still considered a (hand) adjustment even if the hand control is out of reach of the driver e.g. in the engine bay.

A modification is a change that is performed that requires a tool e.g. spanner to adjust the brake bias on a pedal box, spanner required to adjust the ride height on coil over suspension, etc. Obviously you can’t stop anyone from modifying anything on a vehicle.

e.g. Being able to use your hand to change the brake bias while vehicle is in motion or when stationary is not allowed. If the adjustment requires a tool, then that is fine. So by tightening the locking nut on the pedal box brake bias adjuster meets the requirements and needs to be performed before registration inspection. Welding or some other method of affixing would only be required if the adjustment had no locking mechanism.

e.g. Using your hand to change the ride height below ADR minimum while vehicle is in motion or when stationary is not allowed. If the ride height adjustment requires a tool, then that is fine. So that is why we can use coil over shock absorbers on our kits. But they are set at an appropriate ride height that meets ADR minimum requirements before registration inspection. (I am not going to get into Air Bags and Hydraulics as that is a more detailed discussion.)

There should be no difference between the states in this regard.


Hopefully the time I've spent on this isn't wasted, and is of some help....

Cheers,
Warren.

I had the same issue, Wazza and Sime, with the weld ridge plus the arc of the hose clamps under the plate. I needed some clearance, but certainly not like Sime. I just used some decent rubber grommets to reduce vibration and added a little extra rubber (about 3mm) and that did the trick.