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This car is nice and old school, it needs a side oiler in it. What are the options for changing engine?
Keep going. |
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I need another set. Good luck with your new car and the minor restoration! |
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The restrictions however are only $$$. Honestly, my preferance is big block and it would be a shame not to let such a robust chassis not experience this. All suggestions welcome and if there is a lazy side oiler anywhere, I can give it a good home. |
A nice Big Block Chevy will fit right in there, you won't have to change a thing.
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Yep, all the mounts and bell housing are the same between SB and BB Chev. The BB hangs a bit further forward than the SB. Lots of parts are also interchangeable between the two: Water pump, distributor etc.
Cheers |
The Arntz is running the smaller and lighter 153 tooth flywheel and bellhousing size. It's a billet alloy flywheel, which would be a laugh behind a tough big block, but the starter motor might be a bit unhappy if you tried to get the 153 tooth combo to spin a big cubes/big compression motor.
Of course, I only assume that any replacement engine will have big cubes and big compression. Oh, and about .770" lift on the camshaft should be just about right as well... |
Another thing to note is you can buy mount adapters to put the earlier chev mounts on a later LS motor. It would drop straight in. A few mods to the transmission cross memeber for a T56 wouldn't difficult either. Late model HP, drivability and reliability (we won't talk about the improved fuel economy as that shouldn't be a factor in a Cobra equation).
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Does anybody know what happened to the Arntz that was on the cover of the June 1980 cover of HotRod ? Is it still around? Still on the road? Anyone here on Club Cobra have it or know where it is?
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I agree with Mike. If you want to drive the car on a regular basis and not have to worry about finding parts for a 50 year old engine, drop in a LS engine. Getting 600 drivable HP is easy these days with a camshaft change, intake and some other minor bolt-ons and you will get 20 miles/gal.
If/when an Arntz Cobra hits $500k for a nice one, then slap in a S/O. |
Have not been up to a great deal of late however like with most projects, one thing leads to another and another and so on.
First up the Wilwood front brakes would look out of place against a 30+ year old spindle and control arms. So I thought that I would clean up the spindle, remove the casting marks and then send to powdercoat. More pics next week when I get these back. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...7/spindles.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12.../spindles1.jpg The upper control arms were to have a rebuild with new bushings cleanup and repaint. Closer inspection revealed more attention was needed than just a clean and parts. So instead of repair, I choose replace, with AFCO upper control arms. These have a 70% thicker mount plate, are about 40% lighter and have grease nipple pivots. All up these cost less that the repair option so the choice seemed right. Pics below of the old and the new. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...ed%20apart.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/leroy17/UCA2.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/leroy17/UCA1.jpg And finally some cleaning of the jag rear has started. Again, 30+ years of build up and this is just the start. This will be fully rebuilt with braced control arms, new bearings and seals. This is just a pic of before and after with the hubs, more to come on this. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...re%20after.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...e%20after1.jpg |
Nice work........
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Everything you've done to the car has improved it. Looks great!
The comparison shot of the two hubs is amazing. You'll probably lighten the car by 50 kilograms just be getting the accumulated crud off everything. I can't wait to see the car back on the ground, with the new suspension allowing it to crouch down over the pin drive wheels! |
Front subframe before and after paint. Steering rack mounts and spindles after paint.
This is going to get addictive, Replacing nuts bolts washers for consistancy throughout and to remove element of doubt on 30+ year hardware. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...7/subframe.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...%20painted.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...%20painted.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...%20painted.jpg |
This is a thoroughly absorbing thread.
We see lots of build threads (and don't get me wrong, they're good too) but this one's a rarity in this country in that it's all about restoring (or rescuing) a wonderful old car. The Arntz models have a deserved reputation as sturdy well-designed and built cars but the ravages of time and a lack of serious maintenance over its thirty something years have done this one no favours. What started out as a quick tidy-up has turned into a comprehensive but sympathetic restoration, with all the old school charm of the Arntz to be faithfully retained. In hindsight it was always going to be difficult for Leigh to stop at purely cosmetic improvements, given his penchant for having everything "just so" (his always pristine Harrison was clear evidence of that) and I for one am really enjoying reading about what the rebuild is revealing and I'm so looking forward to seeing this champion old car once more venture forth in all its former glory. |
OK, well last night was a little interesting. Lets move on to one of those builds/rebuilds where nothing is mm perfect and there is a bit of refurbishment/restoration.
First up I was looking for quick jacks that has some age to then, so it matched the rest of the 30+yo exterior. Came across these with all mounting hardware which will have a quick clean up however will have a nice aged appearance. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...quickjacks.jpg Currently working on LCA's, first was cleaning these back to raw before blasting and paint, However the shock mounts (pic is after straightening them) are what I would call too thin 3mm (some will more likely disagree), not straight and a little beaten. So I figured on new 1/4 inch thick mounts which will weld in to replace the current ones. This will also be welded with the correct spacing for shocks and spacers with 1/2 inch bolts. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...trol%20arm.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...n%20mounts.jpg After this will be to fab upper shock mounts. This pic shows somewhere along the line a few washers were spot welded onto a makeshift bracket. Sure it has stood the test of time, however its time to out the old and in with the new. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...ck%20mount.jpg And finally, just because guys like pictures more than words, these are my two vision cars. Sure there a little different but this is what I am working towards, and leaning more to the blacked out wheel as well with the raw spinner. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...vision%201.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...vision%202.jpg And for Anzac Day, Lest we forget. |
if you want numbers like that made i can do them or any number 15 ys with out own vinyl cutter for doing our race car stickers and signs .
cheers dean |
First car looks "pretty", while the second car looks "pretty freaking tough!"
Black roll bar, wheels, side pipes and quick jacks... Love it! The Arntz wheel arches will swallow those Hoosier tyres as well. Much cheaper than Billboards, same great look and better road manners. |
Hey Leroy.
Project look like its going full steam ahead. Great photos. And no politics on this thread which is refreshing! Ian |
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