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hi Gazza,
You are correct.. the Centreforce unit wasnt spaced correctly and had only 3mm of preload... it was definitely at the end of its travel. As for the un-named Cobra builder that put it together when everything was easy and accessible out of the car... I think the outcome thus far is testament enough. Pic of the factory flywheel attached. I think you may have read the dimensions around the wrong way.. the factory set up is 25mm wider than the Centerforce components. As such the current SS would have has a static preload (or crush) of 28mm as noted, exceeding the 17mm max as previously advised and confirmed by Mal Wood in QLD. The SS cant be spaced towards the engine.. its too close already. Solutions not easy to come by just yet, but it surely cant be this hard with the right info at hand. Can anyone confirm the unloaded length of the slave cylinder on a TR6060 for use with a factory clutch, pressure plate and clutch plate..? It would be equivalent to a post 2012 VE HSV. The unit I have measures 90mm when standing on a bench. The last pic is of an LS7 flywheel which is more like what I am looking for.. recessed face, single piece component, not much wider than the Centerforce flywheel overall. Cheers Chris |
I have the ls7 fly/clutch setup on my ls3, sorry its in the car cant take measurements!
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Thanks Modena, should I be so lucky.. ! lol ... good to know its possible.. :)
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I sure hope so, mine isnt even bled yet! It did bolt down just fine.
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Has anyone seen or used the twin plate LS3 flywheel as pictured above.
I bolted it up this afternoon but there is still rotational movement between the front and rear plates of around 3 degrees, it feels like there is some sort of a flexible coupling / bush between them. Is that movement supposed to be there or are they supposed to be locked once its torqued down. Look forward to some advice on this one and getting back to the process of building a car. With thanks Chris |
Are you running the twin disc clutch that came out on the corvettes and Shelby Mustangs with the TR6060 trans? If so are you absolutely sure your clutch(s) are installed correctly?
I went through these same issues with my set up only to find out I had installed the clutch wrong. Like you any adjustment requires me pulling my engine and trans. I am using a 3/4" master on my setup. |
Its the standard HSV set up as per the included pics, single plate clutch with a 7/8" master. My concern is with the flywheel, where the front and rear plates can move a few degrees independently.
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Quote:
There might be someone there that is familiar with all the different variations of clutch combos. Cheers |
Chris,
I'd class it as a dual mass flywheel. |
That big one is a dmfw, yes there is movement in them, my Audi has one. You seem to have the LS7 fw so why arent you using it? Do you have the LS7 clutch to go with it? Chuck the centreforce in the bin, I learnt that 20 years ago.
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Running an Blown LS1 with the LS7 clutch and TKO600. Not even a hint of clutch slip !!
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Hi Chris,
Have you spoken to Mal Wood about the issue? |
hi Geoff,
I have been speaking with Mal over the past week, although I had been concerned not to chew up his time with what I hoped at the time were more general knowledge issues. I only arrived at a position with the dual mass flywheel installed last night to advise Mal the CSS dimensions required. He is machining a lower profile unit to suit the existing gearbox and engine mounts .. :) Will post once it back together and functioning. Chris |
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FFFF Finally.... !!! yes, lots of expletives later, I have a sweet low profile slave cylinder from Mal Wood, complete with a series of conical spacers installed and the drive train fitted back in the car.
I bled the system tonight and checked if the clutch disengaged by turning fitting on the output shaft of the gearbox with the pedal depressed. After increasing the stroke of the 7/8 MC from 20 to 25mm and using the above method to test it was working, I noted the take up was very early in the pedal travel. When turning the fitting on the output shaft it was stiff but certainly not requiring more than a moderate amount of effort to turn. By contrast, with the gearbox in neutral, the effort required to turn the fitting on the gearbox output shaft would be considered as 'light'. Its very much a newbie question, but is the observed level of resistant to rotation of the fitting on the output shaft considered 'normal' when in gear with the clutch pedal depressed... which would then confirm the clutch is fully disengaging..??? With thanks Chris |
Hi Chris,
It does take a little more effort to turn the output shaft depending what gear you are in, the clutch may also still be "dragging" since the plate is new. For example in 4th gear, the input will spin at the same speed as the output shaft while you turn it. In 1st gear, the input shaft will spin about 3 times output shaft speed. So in a lower gear it will take more effort to turn the output shaft. But if you can turn it by hand (clutch pedal depressed), and can't turn it (clutch pedal released), then you must be ready for a test drive. Gary |
Thanks Gaz, awesome. I will the put the rest of the car back together now!!
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hi Gaz,
A quick follow up to validate and cross check (and no I wasnt a hostie in a previous life.. :) ) !! I tried turning the output shaft in a number of different gears... validated what you said.. the clutch is working as best I can tell.. :). One thing I noticed when bolting down the mounts for the gearbox tonight was that there is an offset to the centre line of the car for this mount of around 5mm (left to right side). I recall the guy who set this up originally saying something about a slight offset to ensure the tail shaft was not directly square with the diff centre so the universal joints were under some load at all times. Are you able to confirm if this (mis)alignment is appropriate and its ok to proceed with the balance of the reassembly..? With thanks Chris |
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