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MikeFromPerth 11-05-2017 05:00 AM

this thread has inspired me to go googling spinner tools. here's one:

Sarto Rocheleau -  CobraHalibrand type Spinners      If your Halibrand spinner looks like this one, the tool will fit.This tool applies equal force to all 3 ears of the spinner without distorting the spinner.     The tool drops onto the s

Karl Bebout 11-05-2017 03:49 PM

One other little trick I did is that I drilled 1/8" holes in all the spinner ears so that I have more choices of just where I attach the safety wire. This prevents having a wire running in the way of reaching the air valve stem.

HI Cobra 11-05-2017 05:03 PM

Karl - that reminds me that this winter I will be drilling those extra holes in my spinners. I have one that ended up like that close to the air valve. I can still
check and put air in but it is a minor pia.

Ron61 11-06-2017 03:32 AM

To loosen mine I use a spinner removal tool that works great and saves beating on the ears with the lead hammer. It fits over one ear and hooks to the wheel and then you use a 3/4 wrench to tighten it. If it is to hard when you get it tight whack the spinner with a hammer to break it loose and them finish with the removal tool.

Ron

DanEC 11-06-2017 05:12 AM

When tightening the spinner with a lead hammer, whack it lightly a few times to snug the wheel up, but then drop the car to the ground and load the wheel/tire with the car's weight before you tighten the spinner. Trying to beat on it with the wheel in the air is just beating your bushings and bearings.

HI Cobra 11-06-2017 05:12 AM

I recently got one of the spinner removal tools that sounds to be the same as yours but I haven't used it yet. I'll get a chance to try it out when my garage
is finally completed in a couple of months. Looks like it should make the wheel removal process a lot more controlled.

DanEC 11-06-2017 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron61 (Post 1432417)
To loosen mine I use a spinner removal tool that works great and saves beating on the ears with the lead hammer. It fits over one ear and hooks to the wheel and then you use a 3/4 wrench to tighten it. If it is to hard when you get it tight whack the spinner with a hammer to break it loose and them finish with the removal tool.

Ron

Can you post a picture of it Ron?

Ron61 11-06-2017 05:28 AM

Dan,

I will see if I can find a picture of it and if I can remember the link to the site that I got it from.

Ron

Ron61 11-06-2017 05:31 AM

OK Dan, I found it. Here is the link to the site that I bought it from and also a picture of it.

Performance Unlimited Automotive Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Main Lobby

http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...ols/img130.gif

Ron

DanEC 11-06-2017 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron61 (Post 1432439)
OK Dan, I found it. Here is the link to the site that I bought it from and also a picture of it.

Performance Unlimited Automotive Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Main Lobby

http://performanceunlimited.com/cobr...ols/img130.gif

Ron

Ron - I hope that comes with good instructions. I'm not sure how it works.:)

super 11-06-2017 08:28 AM

Ron, for sure a fine tool to open very strong tightened spinners. But this tool fits only for Halibrand wheels, not for FIA or even Sunburst.

Here another option for a tool which works for all kind of wheels:

Tork Striker Spinner Removal Tool

or the alternative from DPS Products
see #66 ff: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...er-tool-4.html

Werner

stephen low 11-11-2017 04:33 PM

Guys

I was doing a bit of reading about the anti-seize products, as I wondered what reaction with the aluminium rims, knock-off shaft and spinners the various anti-seize products might have.

Realised I have a tub of Loctite Nickel 771 compound in my chemical stocks and this seems to read as ok to use. It is a high heat resistant variant but it is the chemical mix that is of concern to me.

Anybody got some definitive advice of the nickel based product and potential reactivity?

I know I'll never use up this tub of product so trying not to buy a second different tub.

Gav 11-12-2017 02:01 AM

Nickel will be fine, that's what I'll use.
Btw it's a bastard to clean up, my wife once complained about some of it getting on our carpet (beats me how it got there) CRC contact cleaner gets it off beautifully.

spdbrake 11-12-2017 09:46 AM

In aerospace we use a lot of LB 771 (Nickel) anti seize on turbine engine parts.
Rule of thumb is to grab a pair of Black Nitrile gloves when using it. (good below 2400F)
(Nickel is a cancer causing agent) SDS (used to be called MSDS sheet)
http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/...N&matnr=235028

For normal use areas like landing gear, bleed air plumbing, flight controls (good below 1800F)
C5-A (copper) anti seize is typically used.
http://hybris.cms.henkel.com/henkel/...US&language=EN

stephen low 11-12-2017 12:21 PM

Thanks guys for the confirmation. Had read it can be a pain if not used sparingly.

Good tip on the chemical hazard too ta.

super 11-13-2017 11:29 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Stephen,

as I already mentioned, I use a product from Weicon. I am not sure if you will get this over there, but I like it.

It is white, metal free, ceramic based.

This is the link to the technical data sheet:
Anti-Seize High-Tech | Coating and Protecting | Oil and Gas | Industries | WEICON Germany

And here a picture to how it looks like:

stephen low 11-13-2017 02:02 PM

Super

I'm sure I could source the product if I had the will but just don't need another chemical in the midst of the myriad of others I have accumulated in the garage, especially with a suitable anti-seize to hand.

The nickel variant is carbon grey but I'll be sparing in its use.

Thanks anyway.

Steve

Rob. Smith 11-18-2017 04:38 AM

I use a product called GOOP . It is used in steam turbine applications .. A bit expensive as it's based on a silver compound. Very durable and doesn't walk or fling.


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