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Heat shielding
Hi All,
I was wondering what you guys have done to shield heat from engine around footbox & tunnel etc. I believe you can get heat resistant matt? Is it adhesive? What side does it go on? Is it worthwhile? I am spraying stoneguard on the complete underside of body to reduce noise etc. but does this reduce heat in cabin? help! Leeroy.:( |
Hi Leeroy,
I have not finished my car yet but since nobody else has responded yet perhaps I can tell you what I am intending to do. 1) I will get the headers coated by HPC. Most people confirm that this reduces under bonnet tempreatures considerably. www.hpcoatings.com I may even get part of the exhaust coated. There is also a company called Jet Hot which does the same thing but I have heard bad reports and no good reports about them, where as I have only heard good reports about HPC. 2) There seems to be 2 basic types of heat shielding for the engine bay side (aluminium shielding generally goes on the engine bay side as it supposed to reflect heat, I dont think it would be very effective on the interior). There is an adhesive Aluminium shielding and a non sticky matting type. The stick on is thin (looks like thick tinfoil). The non sticky type is thicker and I'm told most people use this and secure it with rivets etc. 3) I figure a good underlay should keep out a fair amount of heat. I used to sell carpet and rubber underlays can be pretty thick ( like the kind they use for Aerobics etc). Or you could use felt underlay (made from wool). Felt is a very good insulator and very fire resistant. Good question, I hope we get some more ideas. Regards Cameron |
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The main problem I had with HPC Coating was that the coating failed during my dyno testing. If they told me this in the first place, I would have waited until after the dyno... They took the pipes back, and redid them at half price, but the gloss appearance dulled permanently after the motor ran lean at idle (blower disconnected, and the engine had never been tuned to run without the blower).
I got a bit carried away with my obsession about keeping my feet cool. Extending my driver's side footbox forward 8" meant that cylinders 2, 3 and 4 are all nearly touching the footbox. To counter this, I have the alum foil/fibreglass woven material bonded to BOTH sides of the footbox. Then there's a 1/2" airgap to the attached alloy panels. The exhaust pipes are HPC coated inside and out, and finally I have header wrap on the portions of pipe that run closest to the footboxes. I can drive the car without shoes, and not feel the slightest bit of heat. I love it. Some people say that header wrap will damage the headers over time, but the material is so effective in reducing heat that I think losing some of the life of the headers is a fair trade-off (if in fact it does make the headers rust prematurely). |
Heat wrap the go???
:3DSMILE:
On I.C.E Indiana Cobra Enthusiasts - under Clubs there are a few pictures of footwells with heat blanket attached. 750 Craig My pipes were done in Castlemaine Victoria and they are sh!t and I will be covering them down to just inside the body. From there I am going to spray black heat proof paint over the coating. :eek: The coating has both faded and also has started to peel off on the top layer. I find the footwells get hot at the moment but my bigger concern is the amount of heat that is under the passenger guard/fender. %/ The area immediately above the pipe exit is very hot so a wrap is in order here. Your wrap looks very tight, did you wet the wrap prior to wrapping the pipes? As the wrap comes in large rolls how did you estimate how much you would cut off for each pipe. I considered cutting off a metre or so to see how far it went/wrapped over a pipe. Bernie :MECOOL: Cruising in the sun |
Hi Guys,
I used header wrap as well. I wrapped each pipe by itself without water. I have covered my footboxes in 1700 degree adhesive aluminium heat shield from DEI. You can get both products through Summit. www.clubcobra.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=9194&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=3 I it has a nice quilted look and looks like it will be a great shield. :D --Mike |
Have your pipes 'jet hot' coated. I do not recommend the pipe wraps. Sheild the area around the footboxes, firewall, tunnel (near engine), etc with heat sheild. Self stick or spray adhesive. I prefer the heat sheild not in the passenger compartment but rather the engine compartment. Cover ugly heat sheild material with nice aluminum! You can just use aluminum (or other suitable material) for heat shield. The trick here is it must 'stand off' the material that it is designed to protect and air must be able to circulate between the two. This can of course complicate thing depending on the look you are going for.
Rick |
Lots of different ways to reduce the heat I guess. I Like the adhesive shield Mike has shown. Does anyone know where its available here in Oz?
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...cat=500&page=3 |
http://www.bellis.com.au/ is a Brisbane based company, but they make and sell more types of heatshielding than you would have thought possible. I'm sure there are some Vic based companies that could supply what you need.
Bernie - Scott and I wrestled with those pipes when we wrapped them. We did it without wetting them, and wrapped each pipe individually. It made things VERY tight when all the pipes were squeezed into the collector - so much so that we had to trim some header wrap to allow certain pipes to join together. All worked out pretty well in the end. I bought a 50m roll from Bellis, and we just kept winding the main roll around the pipes. No wasteage that way. We needed all 50m ! |
Craig
Thanks for that info. Cheers Bernie |
Hi Leeroy,
Revolution Racegear in Mitcham has stick on aluminiun heat shielding. Freecall 1800 804 778 Cameron |
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