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The amazing thing about mixing your own filler as described by vettestr is that it is so cheap compared to purchasing pre mixed fillers.
I purchase plastic bags of light weight filler powder from a marine merchant. I buy it in 1/2 KG (1lb approx) plastic bags and it is a mixture of micro balloons and fumed silica. The stuff is so light that a 1/2kg bag is pretty big. You would be surprised how far this stuff goes when you mix it with your chosen resin. Further more, you can mix to the consistancy you desire and with a much higher quality resin than normally used for bondo/Bog. I purchase my resins from a resin specialist..not the local hardware. You can also add milled glass to the mix if you want an increased mechanical/tensural strength. When mixed with vinylester resin this mix will hang on well beyond the destruction of surrounding panels. Cheers |
Rebel1,
Sounds like you have played with spooge before. I find buying each component a little better for 2 reasons. I add about 10 to 15% more silica for extra strength when needed. Second reason is to make sure no TALC has been added as a filler. Talc lowers the quality of spooge but is much chaeper by more than 1/2. Add and mix silica first for much easier mixing without lumps to stir in! I add color pigment as a sanding guide sometimes to help see imperfections. |
PCC
Peter I purchased some and sprayed it in...:eek: Calculated the area I needed to fill and sprayed some in a 1/4" hole. Well this morning I went out and there's about four foot of foam like a garden hose in the boot. So it certainly expands..:eek: Looks like I did a spot on job..%/ Glad I didn't over spray fill/it in. I would have blown the side of the car out..:LOL: Now to go out and test for that snake - sorry rattle. **) Bernie |
Oopps!
Out of my league here! Finished trimming back my drivers side door. I had gaps up to 13mm now the leading edge is 5mm (with the remander 1-3mm). This can't be any smaller or else the door won't open!. Now I just need to make the 5mm gap all round and then onto the next door. Les and vettestr thanks for the info re filler. I have two areas on the drivers side door I need to build up (max 1-2mm) so the info will come in handy! First is some concavity on the leading edge of the door and second is on the body in front of where the top of the door turns inwards. I've also been told to just use bog to sandwich the inner and outer skins together. This method has apparently worked well and I know of others who have also used re enforced filler (but it's a pain to sand). Any thoughts about this? |
Car on the road advise..............
Al, take alot of time and effort on the doors. I've seen too many ill fitting doors on Cobras, which have either drooped or simply do not fit perfect (especially the driver's door). Mine fits the drooped category and requires adjustment on a regular basis. Just my 2 bob's worth;) |
Quote:
I've seen some cobras with aweful fitting doors Patience is something that I've got alot of. I've been taking my time with this build. Rather than just jumping into something, doing it incorrectly and then doing it again, so far I haven't needed to repeat anything. I ask people lots of questions, stew on the answers and then work out what will work for me. Cheers |
Mr. Nassty,
I have PM'd you with links etc.. more info than you ever wanted but save what you need and do what makes sense for you. I can not understate importance of Quality Resin mixture to bond panels as we discussed. This is 1 place where shrinkage and warping can not be tolorated. So you spend an extra 20 bucks to buy the best on your investment of ????? up to this point!Remember to hit surfaces with about 24 grit sander to remove wax or mold release agents from areas to be bonded. Klieko fastners are great aid also. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1219 |
Thanks Jeff
Much appreciated! :) Al |
Les,
I've PM'd you Cheers |
Les,
I've PM'd you Cheers |
Damn...so ya did Al....and...I just sent you one back. :)
Nudge nudge...wink wink :LOL: |
After a lot of consideration the past week or so I'm starting to get a good idea of what I want to do.
I'll most likely go with the CR kit with a worked LS1 (possibly LS2 by the time I get around to the build) and definitely consider super charging at some point. Thats about as much as I know at the moment. I'll most likely use the suspension and driveline supplied with the CR kit, a t56 gearbox, not so sure bout the diff tho - might go with what CR supply, might not.. probably will. But I'm pretty set with the kit/engine. The most difficult thing at the moment for me is the interior. I have no idea what kind of seats and belts I'm after, let alone dash and trimings. I'm half thinking of going for something more modern, but at the same time I really like the idea of keeping it all original. I don't think any of that made sense. Kind of like my thoughts at the moment. :JEKYLHYDE |
Jase
Your on the right track. Just keep looking at the Cobras on the 'Forum' here and check out as many as possible at events. Then you make the hard decision - what colour to paint the finished Cobra...:confused: Bernie |
ARGH! I think the bare shell look will be quite popular!
Btw, where can I find details about upcoming events down here in Melbourne? Or I guess in other states - may as well plan a Cobra scouting holiday or two.. |
Cobra stuff in Victoria
Jase,
If you want to know everything Cobra related I Vic. come along to a meeting at the Mercat Cross Hotel on the first Thursdat of every month at about 7:30pm. Here is a couple of links to the Vic. club net site. Cobra Car Club of Victoria Cobra Car Club of Victoria Club Calendar Hope to see you there. Cheers, Bryan Wilson |
Bryan
Our sites look good. I was on the N.S.W site the other day and I like the way they have the profiles on every member. Your thoughts..:confused: Maybe to many ugly heads..:eek: www.cobracarclubnsw.org.au Cheers bernie |
Bernie,
The NSW Site is very impressive and their are plenty of very good looking Cobra's on there. Well presented;) |
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