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Fire wall lining
Hi all,
I’ve just been trying to work out where I’m going to run my brake lines and thought that it might be prudent to install a lining to the fire wall before mounting the master cylinders etc. My question is what has other people done in regard to this. I was thinking of using either 2mm Aluminum or 1.6mm Stainless Sheet with maybe a 5mm (or thereabouts) air gap between the sheet and glass wall. I’ve checked out Mando’s gallery and am very impressed with the way his has turned out. His engine bay will truly be a work of art. What am I saying, it already is:) . I was also toying with the idea with some thin type of insulation on the inside of the foot well but maybe I’m being a little over cautious. Regards, Luke…. |
Ahh, the memories...
This isn't a show car, but will give you an idea. We lined front of foot boxes & inside tunnel with woven mat insulation that Snake Bite sells. Then attached aluminium heat shields to front & sides of foot boxes, approx 5 mm air gap. Used hi-temp silicone to attach woven mat. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...insulation.jpg I'll be using the same woven mat insulation for under rear clip on the GT40. |
Howdy Luke
My RMC came with the Aluminium heat shields as above and I used those without anything else. Although the driving experience has been limited so far (the car not being registered) I think it will be sufficient for use in VIC. LoBelly |
Is it realy needed? my CR foot boxes never get warm
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easy to do when building...a proper pain later. |
Craig,
Do you have any insulation at all? I have a feeling Phil M and Phil N both added insulation after getting a bit too hot. Ben |
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In my experience these things always get too hot inside. It all comes down to heat soak, the longer/harder the run these things, the hotter the cabin gets. But we've also always ran underbody exhausts. |
Beejay
I am still running with virtually no interior except seats some would call me lazy but I just say it is stripped out for racing, I would expect my Cobra to have higher exhaust temps than Phil M & Phil N being supercharged I get a little heat from the tunnel but not a problem in the foot well I guess everyone’s car is a little different. That being said I will be putting some sound insulation down before carpet just to help with drive train noises |
Cool.
I will have to get up the coast and see your beast one day. Ben |
G'Day Folks,
I've seen a new product in the states called "Lizard Skin" it comes in both Sound deadener ( really good in an open car with side pipes ) and a Ceramic heat retardant coating. The endorsement story looks pretty convincing. have a look. I'm thinking about using this stuff on my RMC. |
The Nascar boys use this product. http://www.crracing.com/racing_perfo...formance.shtml then check out the GOLD REFECTIVE FILM. The color is not my first choice but I have used it on aluminum panels and was simply amased. I have tried many other products with varing degrees of results but this stuff is great. It figures the boys with a gazillion dollar budget would find the best stuff. I have also had good luck with the 2 foil sided jutting that is about 5/8 total thickness, but the key to that is seal each side or top and bottom if you make a cut for fitting. way cheaper but not as good.
Good luck Jeff C |
Hi Rob,
Just had a look at the 'Lizard skin' website and it certainly looks the goods. Does anyone have any further experience with this stuff and is there an Aussie distributor?? My other concern with the heat was around the effect it has on the glass. Not being an expert on the intricacies of glass I was worried that the engine heat will have an adverse effect on the glass within the engine bay. Am I being over cautious again:confused: ??? Luke.... |
I have had no problem with heat effecting the fiberglass and I defiantly don't baby her.
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I used Lizard Skin in my car . There are a few pictures of the interior before and after the finish was applied. 1 bucket covered the entire footboxes including the roof and sides, the tunnel, the floor and the area behind the seats.
You need to use the spraygun they recommend due to the consistency of the produce. Not even sprayguns used for bodyshultze would spray this stuff. It even comes with a certain type of paddle that attaches to a drill to mix the stuff that so you dont over aerate the mix. You spray on thin layers until its about the same thickness as a credit card. You can sand it smooth and paint it if you need to. If anyone wants to use this stuff I can send them the gun and all the other bits that comes in the kit including the paddle to do the job. The kits not cheap so it would be worth your while to use mine. Regards. |
Thanks Mando,
I might have to take you up on your offer for use of the spray gun. Do you know where to get this stuff locally?? The website only seems to be for US orders. Also, did you spray the inside of your engine bay (ie behind the stainless sheets??) FYI, I've been making up some cardboard templates of the footboxes and fire wall, so I can get some of the guys at work to cut and bend up some aluminum sheet for me. BTW, the welding on your foot box sheeting looks fantastic. You must be pretty happy with the result. Regards, Luke.... |
Luke, I bought the Lizard Skin directly from the guy that owns the company in the States. He was really good to deal with but that would have to be about 2-3 years ago. Since then I think Rocket Industries or one of the other performance crowds is selling the stuff now.
I didnt use the stuff anywhere in the engine bay. I didnt need to weld the panel, instead I had the stainless Laser cut into shape, then I bent it to the shape of the body on a large bender where I could install a large radius to the fold instead of just a sharp 90 degrees. The program is probably still on file at the Laser cutters, so if you want a copy let me know. Regards. |
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Ptrefy
I found out very quickly the amount of respect hi powered Cobra's deserve, Its amazing the amount of people that think they now how to drive a powerful car because they own a stock SS commodore or a XR8 falcon. You soon learn to caress the go pedal instead of mashing it to the floor |
Try SummitRacing.com I've bought stuff from them cheaper than the manufacturer and their shipping costs are pretty good too.
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