Oil Temp Sensor
 

I want to fit an oil tepreature sensor. The vdo sensor is brass as is the fitting it screws into. I was going to drill a hole in the sump and have the brass fitting welded into the sump. I have since learned that brass does not weld to steel. So I guess I now have to get a metal plate tapped and welded on. I have not drilled the hole in the sump yet. Before I start:o do any of you brilliant people know of an easier way? am I missing something?

Hi Cameron
VDO make a dipstick with sensor that goes with their oil temp gauge.(green plug on dipstick behind filler cap in photo). Seems to work fine with no drilling or welding into sumps.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d..._023_small.JPG
Cheers
BJ

HI Cameron,

You could use the temp sender as your drainage bung.

I did this in my first engine, works fine, however you do need to becareful when oil changing, removing the wire every time may make the connection loose.

Phil

Cameron, You Can Bronze Or Silver Solder Brass To Metal. Hope This Info Helps Shelb: Vic

Thanks BJ, not much room under my bonnet, I had to bend the dip stick to fit it under the bonnet as it is.

Thanks Phil. I thought of that too, unfortunately the drainage plug points on a downward angle under the sump:eek: so the first speed hump would take it out.

Thanks Shelb, a friend told me about soldering but he felt that it might not stand the heat and might be too risky on something as important as the sump. Can anybody confirm or deny that?

Does anybody have another way? Did anybody actually put a hole in the sump as I am contemplating? I assume most of us have oil temp sensors!

Hey BJ, nice pick of your engine bay. Is that a fuel pump on the firewall?

Hi Cameron,
That is the gas convertor on the firewall.Alot of people try to hide them but I figured if something goes wrong I would want to able to get at it pretty easily.
Cheers
Brett

Hi Cameron

You might want to look at one of these

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/OIL-PRESS-TEM...QQcmdZViewItem

It mounts in between your oil filter and the mounting face.
I use one and it works very well.

Brett

Brett,

Do those adapters fit an aussie windsor. The description points towards Rice Burners!

Cameron,

I've been thinking of wiring up my Oil Temp gauge for quite some time. I heard that the brass fitting can be welded to steel, but to be on the safe side, I was going to remove the sump and thread a nut on the inside and then get a welder to seal both inside and outside of the sump.

I'll read with any interest any other solutions.

Cameron

No problem. They fit alot of different motors. They are made for use with a standard oil filter used on Aussie cars. I use mine in conjunction with a Ryco Z9 filter.

Brett

http://www.earls.com.au/category.php?ID=6

Earls make them aswell. Go to the above link and scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Brett

I'm about to mount mine too.

I'm mounting my temp sensor on an extension where the oil pressure sensor mounts. It's a brass hexagon shaped extension that you drill and tap - one sensor on the side the other at the end.

Cameron,
You can fit a brass fitting to a steel sump by brazing or silver soldering. The heat from the engine should not get anywhere near the temp required to unbraze or unsolder the fitting. The brazing will still be prone to vibration and may come loose later on, depending on how good the brazing is.

Another way to get around this problem is to drill a hole in the sump and put what is called a bulkhead fitting in place. this fitting has a nut shaped flange on the inside and a screw up nut on the outside. these fittings are manufactured for hydraulics and gas usage to very high pressures. We use the gas types up to 10,000psi (700bar) without any problem. They are available in Stainless Steel, Brass, Steel, Monel and many other materials. I would suggest that you use a steel fitting from a hydraulic supplier as you may get some galvanic corrosion from dissimiliar metals such as Stainless Steel etc.

The type of fitting you will need has a female end on the outside of the sump and it doesn't matter on the inside. Most of these fittings will come in BSP, NPT, or Metric with the hydraulic fitting typically coming in BSP or ISO (JIC). You will need to check the thread size and type on your sensor.

If you have any trouble getting one of these give me a call as we use them all the time here and can get them relatively easily albeit you should be able to get it off the shelf from Enzed or Pirtek. My phone number is (07) 47213522 Colin Hodson.

Hope this helps.

I know this is probably not going to help you but the dark siders might find this useful.

The LS1 uses an aluminium sump. Some models have a sump heater which is a ceramic element in the side of the heater to stop the oil freezing up in icy cold climates. This can be unscrewed and thrown in the bin and your oil temp sender screwed in. I'm running Autometer mechanical guages so I machined up an adaptor to fit the Autometer capilary fitting directly into the sump. It seems to work really well. No leaks so far and an accurate reading on the oil temp in the sump.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...mp_adaptor.JPG

Cheers

Wow, thanks guys some really great suggestions there. More than one way to skin a cat:eek:

The adaptor plate is appealing as my oil filter is already remotely mounted.

However the system Colin mentions would look neater...i think. Hey Colin are you saying that I would not need to have any welding done? Just tighten the nut and bolt and thats it?

Hmm, the dark side does have some advantages Mike. I was hoping someone would know of a similar unused plug on the modern windsor block.

Cameron
you could throw your brass fitting to the shietzen housen and tig weld a steel fitting on to the sump to accept your sender, it is probably just a gas thread common to plumbing suppliers.

Cameron,
Yes, the fitting just screws together. It would probably be wise to put a sealing washer of some kind (rubber, fibre, dowdie seal etc) to ensure a really good seal. Go to the enzed shop and have a look for yourself to see if its suitable. They are relatively cheap at approx $12 - 30 depending on size etc.

I haven't figured out how to put a photo on here as yet (just new to the forum), but if you send me your email I can email back a picture for you. My email is colinh@qldbreathing.com

good luck

Bronze and silver solder is not like "soft" solder that you are thinking of...Brass welds are stronger than most other welds but the melting temperature is the same as the socket...silver solder is just as good but has a lower melting temp....perfect for brass-to-steel. It is almost fun to silver solder things together. The stuff just "wicks" in and leaves a beautiful finish and the flux washes away with Hot water.
Smithy

NASSTY
That won't work---no oil flow--just pressure. Not accurate reading.
The sensor must be in a location where the oil is circulated.
Oil sump, cooler line before cooler.

Craig

Jobs done

Want to put a pic of the sensor installed in the sump here but I still cant work out how to get the pics to appear here. Look in my gallery if you want to see it.

Ended up getting a steel nut welded into the sump and sensor screwed straight in. So far no leaks.

The guy at Coventry fastners gave me the nut for free. Got the guy who did my exhaust system to do the weld.....he didnt charge me.

Total cost of the job = $0.00 :D

Thanks everbody for your help. It's been an interesting thread.

Fitted my sensor as per Brett's advise using an Earl's Adaptor (good Company to deal with by the way).

I had to replace the Z9 filter with a Z89A one as the Z9 would not fit as per another thread on this subject.

I did read that AU V8's with an Oil Cooler use the shorter filter whereas a Z9 are fitted to the others. Not sure using a shorter filter will make much difference although I have noticed the car is now running with slightly less oil pressure - may be because of the shorter filter.

Curious to know what the oil temp should be for my motor. 5L EFI donk.

Any ideas?