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a rough guide is for around 2500 dollars ill supply
complete engine loom wired to suit with relays fuses accell pedal wiring etc ecu with security removed accellerator pedal and mass air flow meter will look into mafless and performance tunes these will cost extra not sur eon price yet |
Sidey - can you get the engine check and oil warning light working with the E38\L76? Looks like you need some sort of CANBUS interface, (No not canibus Mike :)) Is that right? Do you supply your looms with a OBD2 connection as well?
Cheers :) |
yes u have ti wire in the check engine light
l76 has these in the ecu from factory the ls1 needs a wire fitted and the tune modified for mil light to work all my looms havve obd2 connectors cause i test them before i send them out if i have an ecu lying around if the l76 is auto u have to wire up the can bus wiring to auto and engine ecu i now have a late model diagnostic scanner and just bought the can bus adapter so i can do alot of stuff with very late model holdnes and others im goin to get into diagnosing late model cars aswell |
Thanks Sideshow. As mentioned I don't have the engine yet but I do have the pedal so I'll be in touch when I get closer to needing the ecu, loom etc. How much time do you generally need to put all that together?
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i can get loom finished in 2 to 3 weeks
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Cheers |
its on the missing plug that is not on the main enigne harness
there is a crappy diagram goin round for the l76 hehehehehe |
haha - yes i think thats the one I have. It seems to have most things but it is bloody hard to interpret. I have a Z06 schematic (that uses the E38) and its brilliant...eg. "MIL light out"....Think Im missing that on mine. So the MIL pin number is???? :D:):p haha
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G'Day, I'm not local (newcastle nsw) but I must say please DON'T use tek screws. they are meant for a once only fitment like in shed walls. Believe me you will unbolt stuff and rebolt it lots of times and tek screws don't like that.
Enjoy your build and experience the legal crap. (no one understands, until they live it) Smithy |
Thanks for the tip Rob. So what would you use to secure the P-clips for the brake lines? Mine will be going into steel chassis rails, I'm guessing 2-3mm thick.
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Sambo
If there is enough meat in the chassis you could drill and tap and attach directly. I've done this for fittings in the engine bay. Another good trick I was put onto are aircraft anchor nuts. Essentially a captive nut held in a frame, with the frame riveted into place to hold the nut where you want it. Come in all different thread sizes and even plain, nyloc or metal lock threading. means you can unbolt bits very quickly once all assembled. Just another thought! |
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Sambo
The other place to go is Lockbar Steel, they are also in Moorabbin. They have a great range of both steel and aluminium and will cut to size. They are also open Saturday mornings. Rod |
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Or is that the D.A. signs? Do they still make Diners Ale? |
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Diners Ale must be a Qld. CUB offshoot at least Fosters is exported!!
Sadly neither saw nor heard from you Sambo, another meeting blow out!! I might have to come to you once the car is registered. Cheers |
Ah sorry mate. I meant to call you to say I couldn't make it - a product of running around to buy stuff on Saturday til about 1pm and I knew you were busy after 12 noon. Yesterday I had a partner to pay attention to after a full day with the car Saturday. Stephen I will make it a priority to drop in one weekend soon. It's a busy time of year for all I imagine. I hope to make the VCCC meeting next week also.
Cheers, Paul |
BUNNINGS will supply most of it and threaded rod
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I finally tracked down a nutsert tool after a tip-off from Total Tools... they sent me to Economy Bolt Company in Keysborough who are open Saturdays. Cheapest price on the tool ($230 in the m4-8 range with lots of rivnuts), made in USA and does a marvellous job. They also stock tons of fasterners and are very helpful. I can't believe nutsert tools are so hard to come by in Australia - we have a thriving hotrod industry after all.
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