Wazza,
Shouldn't arssssss have an 'e' on the end ;)

Engine
 

Mike my rego'd cobra will be at home in the garage for the Nats this year as the new race car will be there instead. Not as much bling but a little more GO perhaps... The fuel filter is anodized blue but that's about where the bling ends.....

I never got a nibble at the 06 Nats for engine preso so I've assed the S&S and now going more for the driving experience... Too much waxing led to cramps and carpel tunnel!:3DSMILE:

Spooky PT

S&s
 

Mat,
That is a shame you car is one of my favorites and I do love your engine bay, your engine looks techical but clean and tidy....awesome.

I too will not enter the S&S, just too much work, and as you say I am going for the driving experience, the car will be in race mode and that is it.

I think there is an opportunity for a national Show and shine event, maybe a 2 day event, a bit of a cruise but more of a social week end.


For the smart ones amoung us spell check this:

How in hell do you get your haed so far up your own arse.:3DSMILE:


Phil

Hey Phil, aren't you supposed to be at Wakefield today?

Not another one.
 

HI david,
Yep, I should be.

That is why you have the great weather, decided yesterday to give it a miss, the weather was looking bad and work was piling up.

As I sit at my desk I have the sun shining thru the window.

Bugger $200.00 desposit gone.

Phil

Thanks Phil... I could look at it all day!:3DSMILE:http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../chris_005.jpg

Great Thread
Good info
Even better Stiring.

Originally I was going to use a LS1. I copped a lot of talk about going modular / 5.4 Boss, but the weight, not the size as it does fits, put me off. At the Nats, it's usually the smaller engines and well sorted cobras that are fastest. Put a big block in the front or forced induction or even both, appears to me to negatively affect handling and drivability out of corners, just too much torque to control.

But I chose a Windsor because I was lucky enough, kept one ear on the ground constantly, to find a T3 from a Tickford TE50. 5.6Ltrs or 342 ic. 250kw stock. Ok it's heavier than a LS1, there were no LS2's when I bought it, but it's just as powerful and has what an LS1 never had, a bottom end.

It's a Ford which is what my heart said to get.

If you don't mind spending a few bucks, you can easily get 400hp from a 302. It's enough.

A nicely sorted 347 will net 500+HP. More than enough hey Phil!

Finally,
Are the days of big gains on just a tune on a LS2,76,98 etc still here?
I was told by a Chev tuner that unless accompanied by mods, there are not much gains left to be had on LS2+. The LS1 was dumbed down HP wise for Oz, the first were 225kws when a crate motor from memory was 257odd kws? You Chev guys will know more about this stuff than I do.

ive seen a std ve go from 190 kws at wheels to 230 just by tune maybe a cold intake and exhaust and a good tune

looking thru my tunes on my hp tuners most of the time the std ls1 tunes have bugger all timing as they have 2 timing maps

std they use the low octane map

get a hi speed density tune and it then uses the hi octane timing map

thats yr main gain plus they prob lean it off at top end for that extra performance

but if u want a std engine best power is an ls2

if u want to do mods to it then start with an l76 or l98 and put the biggest cam and lifters possible without doin major mods to engine block then get it tuned

and u can get around 350 kws at the wheels from a mostly std l98

u cant complain bout that

i wired up a 4.6 ford modular v8 into a cobra many years ago and the amount of work required not for the engien but just for everything aorund the engine like body exhaust
intake air flow meter etc etc etc

everything is much harder to sort out that an ls1 or l76 or l98

i guess unless u do the conversion yrself u wont know how hard it is

They do have 2 timing maps, a High Octane table and a Low Octane table. Standard they don't use the Low Octane table. These names are a bit misleading.
They will always run in the High Octane table (regardless of the type of fuel used), until you get knock (pinging). When it pings, it will interpolate a timing value (based on the knock learn factor) somewhere between the High Octane table and the Low Octane tables value. If the knock events persist, (due to a bad batch of fuel, OR a tuner adding too much timing) it will basically "live" in the Low Octane table.

ok thanks for fixing my mistake

wat does a speed density tune do then

i thought it makes ecu use hi octane table

i guess thats y i just use it for removing security and adjusting fan temps and i stick to wiring heheheheh

If the MAF fails, (or you remove the MAF for a MAFLess tune) the PCM will only use the Low Octane table. This is done for safety reasons, perhaps this is what you were refering to.

The SD(Speed Density) enhanced option basically lets the PCM use both High and Low Octane tables when running MAFLess. It also allows you to use Alpha-N tuning (for any part of the VE table) to tame big cams and/or individual throttle body set-ups.

ok thanks for the good explaination

so it all relates back to speed density is used when mafless if u want

thanks

jim

Not sure I follow all this MAFless discourse! But I guess it means a lot to those educated in the dark arts. On a more mundane point, with an imported complete 302 engine and gearbox, what work should one do before installation (I assume cleaning, spraying, and renewing all clutch components). Should the injectors be replaced or refurbished? What else is wise to do?

Merv

what year is the 302

just make sur eit has no security

if its around 94 95 96 and a mustang 5 lt u should be fine

injecotrs is a good thing to do

clean throttle body with kero ir something soft

do not use carby clean or anyhting harsh as fords have a protective layer on butterfly

and if u use somehting harsh i can remove this layer and it can cause idle probs

change spark plugs

check coils and leads

im sure thats the engine with 2 coils on front on engine each coils has 4 posts

last one of them i wired up it had a broken coil plug which happened dring transport
this is very common cause ford stuck them in the dumbest spot

Thanks for that - very useful. I was planning to replace all the plugs and leads as well. I guess one should try the injectors and of they are OK leave them! If not replace them.

Merv

Merv, just get the injectors cleaned and tested.

Because you never know how long the engine has been sitting it's also a good idea to replace the water pump, belts and prime the engine before starting. You can just do this by cranking engine with ignition disabled. Obviously you are going to be changing the fluids & filters as well.

And as sideshow said, inspect engine closely for physical damage.

The Mighty Ford Small Block.
 

Merv and Sharon,
If it is a 94 import it will have a distributor and single coil, well that is how my motor arrived.

If it is a low K unit I would not touch or open the motor, just run a compression test and make sure all cylinders have about the same pressure and a quick look at the rockers and springs to make sure none are broken.

I would also change the rear seal, as they always leak. It is just a bugger to change when the engine is in the car.

I have a rule that always seams to work, The more you pull it apart the more it costs you to put back together.

My engine had 30 000miles on it and it ran beatifully for many years and towards the end I was not to kind to it, the long motor is still going in another cobra.

With the loom and computer I sent it all off to Castle auto electrics and they reworked it, by passed security etc. Plugged it in and it fired first crank. Although the loom was not the tydiest thing and I would say the mangament was about 80%, could have been better.

Nassty, you will be surprised how quick you get used to the power, when I first drove my car I said, yep this is the car that will kill me. It wasn't long before you are flat to the boards down the straight tapping the dash saying come on hurry up.

500hp... at the wheels just enough:D

Phil

i have seen some looms form castle autos and i try to do much much better

i try to think every job is like a show car always keep stuff in engine bay to little as possible and hide relays and fuses behnd glovebox

anyway each to their own

Brilliant and thank you guys! Off to work!

Merv

I don't agree at all the Chevy was Shelby's FIRST choice. There were many variations on the theme Shelby considered. OLDSMOBILE was likely the FIRST choice, by Shelbys own words and what he eventually chose for his Series 1.

But then, AC was not logically the first choice for the car either! Austin Healey preceeded the AC, for example. The 'recipe' was cooking, over time it would evolve and it became AC and Ford. What might have been is little more than pure speculation.