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Hope it helps:) Rog246 |
Warren
It's #38, about 2004 vintage, having sat in a workshop for a few years before i bought it in 2008. Rog Yeah, i recon a bit more than 10mm, if indeed mine is an R33. Anyway, I think I'll grab a set of adjustable arms as you have done. Hopefully I'll be able to squeeze the Dragways inside the guard with these. Be careful with offset measurements if you havent bought your wheels yet. With R32, Warwicks' 130mm recommendation is about right but if R33 you need to decrease this to around 110mm. Also remember that if using Dragways Hallibrand lookalikes that you may have issues with the 'spokes' hitting the brake caliper. Greg |
Greg, I'll go find some i/v's for what I bought. I'm very happy with the quality of what I bought, its all well made & well finished, so I'll let you know
Rog |
Rog
Sorry, i/v's? Where and what sort of $ for your camber adjusters? |
Well Greg and Geof that certainly confirms our previous suspicions about the R32/33. The other 'test' is the ratio (4.1 compared to 4.3 respectively. I have counted mine over 10 rotations with both rear wheels raised).
So far I have had no problems with the wheels touching the arches, despite some spirited cornering and round-about work! Brilliant handling. No track work thou'. Merv |
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You may be allowed to use billet adapters that have lower profile nuts for your studs and then have their own studs, but you will need to check that. Either way, make sure whatever spacer you use is hubcentric so there are no balance issue's. Many claim to be stud centric, but from what i hear that is bogus. Best bet as you say is just to leave them off (provided there is no clearance issues. Be carefull with modifying camber to make them fit, an incorrect camber adjustment will qickly cost you more in tyres than new wheels and handling will be no good. Have you thought about sticking the wheels on ebay and starting again? Or maybe they can be modified by dragway? Liam |
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They have stuff up there all the time AND they're in BrisVegas to boot hope this helps you Rog:cool: |
Greg,
Another option is to use a camber adjustment kit from Fulcrum Suspension. They replace the bushes in the top comtrol arm. They are used for a coarse adjustment and use the existing camber adjustment for the fine adjustment. The part no. is SPF1869K. I used them in mine. I have an 1 deg neg camber on the rear(there is more adjustment left if required). I paid $260 for the kit for both sides, but that was a few years ago. Warren |
It's not an R32 or 33!
I spoke to Whiteline and Fulcram (thanks Warren) yesterday.
After sending a pic to Whiteline they identified the rear end as an S13 out of a Nissan 180sx, also know as a Sylvia. They tell me that they're commonly used in drift cars and often sold as R32s by wreckers. Pretty much the same animal only a little wider.........so that partly explains why the tyres sit outside the guards. Anyway, I'm ordering a set of upper and lower camber arms to see if i can tuck the wheels in. My final option is to get Dragway to reweld the centres to change the offset. $370 for both inc freight to Vic. |
If you are ordering shorter arms don't forget to check you have enough axle plunge with your existing axles. You don't want to bottom out the axle in the spline in the CV.
I messed around getting this right on my shortened rear end setup. My first axle setup didn't have enough movement in the axle. Cheers |
Greg, Dragway have a factory in Underwood in case I forgot to tell you. If you wanted the wheels dropped off I'd be happy to do it for you.
SpookyPT |
Thanks for your offer Matt
I spoke to them yesterday and unfortunately they have to go to Victoria where their auto welder is located. This makes the freight charges almost as much as the wheel adjustment! |
Thanks Mike
I don't intend shortening the axles, that'd be a last resort for me i think. I'll try the camber ajusters first and then get the centres rewelded if i cant get the setup right. |
Byron, wouldn't a proper R32 cradle from the wrecker be cheaper and then your wheels would fit properly?
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There is usually a fair bit of movement in the axle spline on the CV or they use a 3 roller type CV that lets the axle move back and forth about an inch. The free play is there to let the axle move in relation to the upper and lower arms to compensate for the different arcs they all move in. There's usually a bit of extra clearance to compensate for changes in camber adjustment. I would advise when you get it all back together, take out the spring and move the suspension through it's full range of movement and check the axle freeplay. Cheers |
I gotcha Mike
Thanks for that. I'll check out the freeplay when it's all set up. |
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