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-   -   LS Series Clutch (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/australian-cobra-club/97694-ls-series-clutch.html)

stiffy 06-17-2009 12:09 AM

LS Series Clutch
 
Hey Darksiders,


I have pulled the donk out of the Daytona (AGAIN) to start the painting process.:rolleyes::rolleyes:


I want to replace the clutch and flywheel with something better, what can you recommend??

Weekend driver and the occasional track day is what is planned.

STIFF

Beejay 06-17-2009 12:16 AM

Stiffy,

I am running a stage 3 organic clutch from Mal Wood.

He supplies the same ones to the Brute Ute series, and says they are the best for up to 400 kW.

5300 km's and all good.

Cheers,

Ben

Aussie Mike 06-17-2009 12:37 AM

Yella Terra Light weight billet steel flywheel in mine with Spec Stage 3 Copper ceramic button clutch.

http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Chevy/Camaro/2000/Single

The flywheel is about 7KG versus 10.5 for the factory jobbie. The clutch is a little agressive in it's take up but quite drivable. I've heard reports of clutch shudder till they are bedded in but I never experienced any.

The design is very similar to the Textralia clutch but I bought this setup before they came out.

Yella Terra did me a good deal on the flywheel and it's a very nicely made piece.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...409clutch1.jpg

I got the clutch and pressure plate through CAPA. They had them in stock and the shipping from the US was a bit prohibitave (probably worked out about the same price).

I got the flywheel and pressure plate balanced together as a unit before fitting it. This is very important. I also used a set of ARP flywheel bolts.

I hear the LS7 clutch is pretty good if you want a factory setup.

Cheers

Krait 06-17-2009 03:21 AM

I've got a Mal Wood clutch and flywheel as well on my LS2/T56. Haven't done many miles but was impressed with how light it was compared to some I've driven.

Cheers

Geoff

sambo 06-17-2009 03:31 AM

Stiffy, I've fitted the LS7 clutch and matching (LS2 style) flywheel. It's behind the W427 and should provide good manners. Plus you can land the kit here for under a grand if you don't want to get ripped by Holden. It has a much larger surface area than the stock VZ/VE clutch.

Sambo

stiffy 06-17-2009 05:08 PM

Cool
 
Thanks guy's for your thoughts....


I find the standard clutch a bit light, I havent had any issues with shudder or pick up.

Has anyone compared the standard clutch to the aftermarket one's in the car????

Is the only issue with the standard clutch that it has to pull 1600kg's plus a bogan family inside:o:o or is it a bit light on for the demands of the extremely powerful LS Series power plants;);)

STIFFY

Leeroy 06-17-2009 06:34 PM

Stiffy

I put a Textralia clutch in after the rebuild. Its has given me no trouble at all and after the increase in power I wouldn't like to have the standard clutch as I'm sure after all the track days it would be shot by now and replacing clutch means engine out in mine.

They certainly are not as road friendly as the stock clutch and require to be ridden a bit off the lights etc. but as time goes by it seems to have improved.

I think it would be worthwhile replacing stock clutch while you have the opportunity and the mods you have done will increase the chances of clutch failure of a stock clutch.

pneall 06-17-2009 07:42 PM

Stiffy, I have been running a Textralia clutch for a few years and it has handled street and track duties without any complaints.You get the clutch,flywheel and release bearing in the price. Make sure you install a remote bleed while you have everything apart.
Phil:)

sambo 06-17-2009 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stiffy (Post 959056)
I find the standard clutch a bit light, I havent had any issues with shudder or pick up.

Has anyone compared the standard clutch to the aftermarket one's in the car????

Stiffy, by 'standard' do you mean standard 5.7L Holden dunnydoor clutch or standard 7.0L Corvette clutch? Both factory standard but I would suggest leagues apart.

Some advice I received on lightened flywheels... with the comparatively light reciprocating mass of these LS engines (ability to accel/decel fast), combined with low weight of the Cobra particularly over the back wheels, a heavier (stock) flywheel will help smooth out changes in driveline inertia, providing more traction into and out of corners. On the other hand a lightened flywheel will lose more engine speed during gear changes and engine braking so the rear is more likely to lock up under brakes. Under heavy acceleration a lightened flywheel allows engine speed to build more rapidly, increasing likelihood of wheel spin (not a bad thing at the Kmart carpark).

Food for thought or just plain confusing/wrong? Hope I've explained it properly. :)

stiffy 06-18-2009 04:20 PM

Done
 
Guy's,


I went with the Mal Wood Stage 3 organic (Does that mean I can eat it :eek:). Complete with fly wheel and all the bits. Spoke to Mal for ages and he was very helpful. I even get a free hat (for my bald head) how did he know I was bald...... early 40's bloke with a Cobra,**)


STIFFY

*Cobber* 06-18-2009 05:39 PM

There are plenty of clutch and flywheel options here as well.
http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/

Warning if you are at work turn your speakers off before going to the website, the funky music kind of gives it away that your not working........


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