Strong Glue

Mando · #1 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 04:23 PM

Does anyone know of an adhesive I could use to stick the standard aluminum pedals you find on cobra's onto the steel plates on my arms? I have ground the lug from the back of the pedal so it's one thickness all the way, and I intend grinding of the paint from the arms.

Regards.

Rebel1 · #2 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 04:34 PM

Highly recommend this Mando:

http://www.itw-devcon.com.au/index.p...=75&Itemid=161

drill a few small holes in the steel pedal and countersink at the back of the pedal so you have a kind of rivet effect.

boxhead · #3 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 04:46 PM

Hi there Mando, I did not use glue when attaching mine.
I cut the metal pedal pads off and fitted the pivoting AC pedals, although not finished in the attached pics, I later fitted a longer bolt through the pedal and fitted a coiled spring that pushes between the upper part of pedal and the arm.
Sadly I do not have a pic of it.
But I think Aussie Mike did something similar.

Rick Parker · #4 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 04:50 PM

DO NOT use any sort of adhesive for this. It is a safety item that is too important to risk a bonding failure. DON'T DO IT. Attach with countersunk machine screws or better yet as the photos illustrate.

Mando · #5 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 05:11 PM

Thanks Rebel 1, looks like thats the stuff I need.
Hi Boxhead, Ive thought about using your method many times but I cut the pedals, welded the plates and painted them years ago and at this stage can't be bothered.
Rick, your absolutely right, I'll glue them for now and get some screws into the back of them when the cars off getting painted.

Regards.

steeler · #6 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

DO NOT use any sort of adhesive for this. It is a safety item that is too important to risk a bonding failure. DON'T DO IT. Attach with countersunk machine screws or better yet as the photos illustrate.

I have to agree with this, I fitted the Sparco ones and used the HT countersunk machine screws supplied, its a key Safety feature. just my 2 cents.

Terry.

Aussie Mike · #7 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 07:23 PM

Hi Mando,

I also would advise against using glue. If you don't want to use a pivot setup then I would drill the backs of the pedals and rivet them to the steel plate. Alternatively you could drill and tap them from the back.

The last thing you want is your pedal tread coming loose when you jump on the brake.

Here's a pic of the spring loaded setup I did.

The idea is that the pedal tread can pivot under the ball of your foot and keep it flat. With the low seating position in relation to the pedals the clutch pedal can get to an uncomfortable angle at the end of its throw. The pivoting treads fix this. I wanted the treads to pivot freely but sit level and not rattle when relaxed so I spring loaded them.

They are comfee to use and have good feel.

Cheers

Mando · #8 (**permalink**) 09-08-2009, 09:33 PM

Boxhead, Mike, I really like the idea of the pedals pivoting. If I go down that route now I'll need to extend the length of the arms before attaching pedals. As I said in my last post it may be a job I'll tackle when the cars at the painter.

Regards.

Gav · #9 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 02:09 AM

Honestly Mike, is there anything on your car you havn't modified?

Mando · #10 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 02:16 AM

Show us your pedals Gav! Go on I dare you.

Regards.

Merv and Sharon · #11 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 02:52 AM

Do these meet ADRs?

Merv

Mando · #12 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 03:12 AM

If that question is directed at me Merv, I'd have to say probably not. Screws through the rear into the aluminum should make them a lot stronger.

Regards.

Merv and Sharon · #13 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 04:16 AM

I seem to recall that one needs, "rubber pedals fitted and in good condition" but that was a QT requirement and therefore a roadworthy aspect at any time.

But the AC ones look good and my WRC STI had metal pedals!

Merv

trularin · #14 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 04:36 AM

You all do nice work.

No glue, screws from behind.

Please don't run any wiring down by your feet. You will regret it later.

Mando · #15 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 05:51 AM

Trularin, the loom you can see in my photo is the dash loom before I strapped it onto the dash hoop.

Regards.

trularin · #16 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 06:58 AM

You do great work, I thought maybe, but you never know.

Aussie Mike · #17 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merv and Sharon

Do these meet ADRs?

Merv

My car went through engineering and rego in Victoria with this pedal setup as you see it.

I think the rules have been relaxed in recent years as there are a number of production cars appearing with metal pedals. The AC pedals still have rubber grips with those grommets through them.

Cheers

Michael

CCX 33239 · #18 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 08:47 AM

Aussie Mike, What brand of pivoting pedals did you use? I really like the spring clips you added.

BMK · #19 (**permalink**) 09-12-2009, 03:00 PM

CCX 33239

I have similiar pedals and purchased them from Finishline. On the left side of this forum.

I used a hardware type spring similiar to Aussie Mike. No doubt Aussie Mike would have made his springs.

..Shelby would never have one a race if Aussie Mike was on his team as they would still be building the Cobra or rebuilding it..

Sorry Mike just had to say that....

CCX 33239 · #20 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 05:03 PM

BMK,
Thanks. I'm going to be redoing the entire pedal and master cylinder setup this winter and new pedal pads seemed to be in order. I had pretty much decided on the Finishline pedals and this convinced me.

Bob McFarland