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Hydraulic Clutch - Loose the Cable!
I know this has been discussed but I had to share the mod I completed this weekend. Because it was too cold outside to do much else, I decided to install the parts that I had ordered from Summit. I converted my cable clutch to hydraulic and it works great. Gives me peace of mind that my cable won't break in some remote area and leave me stranded. And it only cost approx. $160 and much easier (my opinion) than installing a Quadrant.
http://lnfletcher.homeip.net/66Cobra/hydroclutch.html |
As long as a hydraulic bearing is not used, I'm all for hydraulic clutches and prefer them over other methods.
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I've got 9 years on my clutch cable in my B+B. Should I worry that mine will break? Jim
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No. Clutch cables were used on many factory cars, especially Fox/SN95 Mustangs for thousands and thousands and thousands of miles.
The thing that keeps them alive is the use of lower clamping force pressure plates, like the stock 10.5" diaphragm plates. I would think that the use of stiffer pressure plates, like the Long and Borg & Beck, with higher clamping forces would cause stretch and premature wear/failure. |
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Great write-up! Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure if I wanted to go hyd. I do now. Thanks
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I order the parts you suggested from summit and have installed them in my car. I am having a little trouble getting the clutch completely disengaged. It appears the length of travel isn't long enough, do you have any suggestings.
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This is similar to the setup we use everyday, -- I will make up an article on this.
V-- you may have to play with geometry a bit. -- if you move the rod from the slave cylinder -closer to the trans you improve geometry. it will pull a further distance in the clutch, for the same amount of travel on the cylinder. -- Steve |
First thing to check is that all of the air is bled out of the line. Second is that the slave cylinder has no slack in regards to the clutch arm. Also make shure that the master is getting full travel. If all of these are correct, it should give you plenty of travel to disengage the clutch.
By the way, on mine, I exchanged the placement of the bleed valve and the input on the slave so that the bleed would be on top and allow me to get all of the air out. If you will measure the travel of your slave, I will compare with mine and make sure that it is not a difference in the clutch arm or clutch workings. In the mean time I will attempt to measure mine and send it to you. If my memory is correct, it is 1 1/2 inches total. |
[QUOTE = Voltaire]
Quote: Originally Posted by Voltaire I order the parts you suggested from summit and have installed them in my car. I am having a little trouble getting the clutch completely disengaged. It appears the length of travel isn't long enough, do you have any suggestings. [/quote] Quote:
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