hood latches and weather striping
 

I was wondering what to look for that attaches on the backside of the hood latches to lock them to the body. I have see some wedges on the finishline site, but I do not see anything like that in the boxes I have.

Also, what shape of weather striping goes on the hood?
The original owner purchased the kit in 2006 and I do not think it is still sticky. Do you glue it on?

Thanks, Jim

I wanted to bump this one to the top. Does the hood use some kind of rubber bumpers as stops or is the weather striping the only thing that keeps the hood and body from hitting?
See other question below

Thanks, Jim

On my FFR, I used bumpers and weather stripping. I used the "D" profile weather stripping from McMaster-Carr and inset some of the bumpers at strategic spots to keep the hood level with the body. I sanded down the backside of some of the bumpers to "fine-tune" the height.
Good Luck

There should be 2 stops that attach to the side for stops. Also you can get the weather stripping from JCWhitney. http://www.jcwhitney.com/stick-on-re.../p2008661.jcwx

for the hood latches do I use the Cam Wedge like from finishline? Would they be the small or large?

Does the weather stripping go on the hood or body?

Thanks, Jim

I'm not sure if the cam wedge will work. The ones that came with the kit are longer. I will try to get a picture for you to see what it looks like.
As far as the weather stripping, it all depends on you. I suggest it be on the hood so that water can drain easier. But that's JMO!

I was going through the boxes more and found some sheet metal door latching pieces new in the packages. They look like they were made for some type of cabinets or screen door. They have the square hole in them, so I will try them.

I also found some rubber hood stops. Where is the best place to install those, up near the latches on the firewall side or more down the sides?

Thanks, Jim

nd,

Go to Lowes and get some groved 3/8" wide rugger weather stripping that is peal and stick. Stick it on the inside groove that your hood closes into. Be sure your surface is clean and dry, it works great and cost less the $10.

Clois

I purchased some of the small wedges from FinishLine and the firewall cams from Superformance. I have not installed the cams yet but will let you know how things turn out.

Associated with your question is how has everyone finished out the latches themselves. Currently I have small washers and locking nuts but this just does not look that finished to me. Has anyone been able to come up with anything that is more elegant?

Mike

Clois,
so I use flat weatherstripping on the hood or D shaped?
The car came with some of each. I assume the other is for the trunk, correct?
What do I use for the doors? Do they get any kind of weather stripping?

Thanks, Jim

I use some very nice hood and trunk shocks with rubber trimm all the way around, it works very well just pop the hood or trunk and just barely pull up and let go, goes up all by it self very cool, and simple.

what size shocks did you use, pics?

I know this was an older thread but I just finished my solution to this issue so I thought I would post what I did since you don't read much on this issue on a B&B. I think there is value in detail so this will be a little long.

There are two issues with the hood latches on the B&Bs that were on my mind. One was the lever that bolts to the latch arm the other was how do you handle the anchor point in the body. Do you cut the body or bolt on a bracket? I make a polished bracket but it seemd the hole in the body would look better.
After looking at various cam arms and comparing them to the metal arm that comes with the kit I actually decided to use the metal arm that came with the kit. I didn't think either looked very good but the deciding factor was the right length of arm since the lever distance is set by the recess under the hood. I decided to make the levers not look so odd I needed keep the arms as short or as close to the hood as possible, and maybe chrome them. I also didn't want the hole in the body to big and wanted them to look equal on each side. To do this I decided to only allow the handles to turn to the center to open and to cut the holes exact so that they are stopped by the body in the locking position. To make this work I also needed to make a trim piece that curved with the body and was pretty exact for the lever to go into. Since my engine was in I needed to be able to the mark curved points on the body that the levers would follow. I used a paint marker on the ends of the lever to just touch the points the lever would hit on each side of the body and connected the points with a straight thick piece of paper to bend the curve. With the hood open I locked the latch, lowered the hood and marked where the lever was, to get the end point of the slot to cut.

I actually made two extra trim pieces for the body to practice bending them so the curve would match the body and not be damaged to be able to polish them. I ended up making the bend using a 1/8" shim on each end of the trim piece and using a curved body dolly covered by leather to make the bend. A large pipe piece did not work. One solution, for what it's worth.
Wayne

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...im_Medium_.jpg

Very nice work Wayne.
I tried a similar plate, mine was square and doesn't look as nice as yours.
I did mine after painting so I can't easily go back and redo mine like your example. Maybe in the future if I need to repaint or something, I'll copy yours.

Larry

Real nice job Wayne.Thanks for sharing.
I plan to make some soon.
Thanks again'

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