wiring loom and electrical connectors
 

I want to finish the install of wiring this weekend.
I have read about routing the wires under the lip in the engine compartment, but how do you hold them there? I was thinking I could glue these up there
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...d=2756&thumb=1

If I do that do I need to be careful what type of epoxy I use? I dont want to disolve the fiberglass.

For the wire end connectors are there any tips for making a good connection with crimp on connectors?

Thanks again, Jim

I suggest putting your wire through wire loom then using plastic tie wraps through a self adhesive mounting block. The wireloom will hold it all together and stiffen it so it won't drop down into view and the wire ties can be cut and re-installed when you need to "correct" something in the future.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...B-4A0-/21-2700
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...=prodCrossSell
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-1505-/28-1505

Jim-
Adel clamps, as you've pictured, would require a thru bolt or stud to mount them too.
As Fletcher mentioned, sticky back pads can be used but they would not stick to the rough surfaced backside of fiberglass as is found "under the lip"
of the engine compartment area. These pads can be pre-installed using a product called liquid nails, available at most hardware stores. After the adhesive has set up, then you can very loosely install the tie wraps thru the loops of the sticky pads, run all of your wires, verify that your wiring is correct and complete, clip the ties, install the loom over your new wires, and then re-install fresh ties and carefully tighten them up. This should provide a tidy and long lasting install.
As far as the crimp is concerned. Most all of the connector manufacturers suggest a crimped only connection as a mechanical crimp does not alter the hardness or as annealled state of the copper conductor. Soldering will tend to harden the copper right at the connection and this spot will be the point of failure if vibration or movement occurs at the joint. If you feel that you must solder, and many auto electrictions feel that way, be sure to use high quality heat shrink tubing over the joint, preferably dual wall, as this will help to provide some strain relief.
As to which crimper to use. Manufacturers suggest the use of a "pinch type" of crimper for insulated connectors and a "pierce type" for uninsulated connectors.
I hope that this helps you out some.
Don

a word of caution, i currently am in the process of removing plastic wire ties and other plastic wire loom devices from my car. this includes the corrugated plastic wire loom.
let me say IT FREAKIN SUCKS> this stuff is very unfriendly with the extra heat made by headers and the lack of room in the engine compartment. be aware of heat rises and that lip you refer to gets rather hot i would use the steel clamps above the headers and loom that can handle the heat. did i mention it sucks to redo this stuff after it has melted into a homoganous mixture of wires and loom.
as for as connectors, there are ones on the market that has solder inside and reacts with heat from a heat gun, they work nice.

fred

P.S. did i mention it sucks to fix later

FWB,
I was worried the heat issues myself. What loom material do they make that is more heat resistant?

Would it be better to run the wires along the inside of the fender right above the wheel well opening?

I was thinking about the solder inside connectors, with additional heat shrink wrap

Thanks as always, Jim

i did my engine compartment with this stuff,

http://www.mcmaster.com/#sleeving/=66qy0m

in fact the clamps can be bought thru them too, they do credit card sales mostly, and you can return stuff if you mess up and order the wrong thing.
i have never waited more than two days for stuff i ordered. i haven't used the online ordering i normally just call with the numbers i want. use the black stuff, it is coated and stiffer than the white. makes fishing the wires thru easier.

good luck, fred

ps..... click sleeving and then choose black, it will show the sizes offered, sold by the foot....

You might try this stuff. They have a few products for wiring protection....

http://www.thermotec.com/thermo-flex.html

i looked at their stuff, their sleeves were short and bulky looking and way pricey.
i liked their 1" roll wrap but wiring looms i didn't like. all that silver loom in the engine compartment shows dirt like crazy. i used their silver stuff on my fuel line down on the frame though.....

fred

I have run the plasic wireloom for years with no problems. I secured it to the bottom side of the fender with the blocks using adhesive. They are far away from the headers and run away from sources of heat. This is the same produce used in almost all production vehicle in the engine compartment.

I wired mine a few years ago using stainless-high temp jacketed wire, soldered and heat shrink on every connector. I wrapped the groups of wires in 3M electrical tape, and anchored them with adel clamps, riv nuts and stainless screws. I have a lot of heat and have had not issues whatsoever. The wire groupings are along the upper edge of the firewall and fender liners. Neat and accesable if necessary. The 3M (Best) tape holds up well to the heat.

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