| Goodbar |
02-23-2014 10:07 PM |
Master Cyl. Heat Shield Needed with Ceramic Coated Headers
I have ceramic coated headers in BDR 310 with a 351W/ 392 and was wondering if the ceramic coating is enough to keep the heat from slowly cooking the Master Cylinder and the brake fluid or do I still need to add the heat shield that BDR sells. Has anyone cleverly made their own master cylinder heat shield out of sandwiched aluminum with insulation in between... or other material?
Also any clever tips on filing or even checking with what I believe is the clutch reservoir that is tucked way under the left fender?
Thanks in Advance.
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| 68 Fastback |
02-24-2014 08:52 AM |
It helps to have the ceramic coating. I made a heat shield from aluminized mylar and fiberglass mat that goes around the Brake and clutch Master Cylinder. Also made one for the Clutch Slave Cylinder. I got the material from 2nd Chance Race Parts. 2nd Chance Race Parts » New & Used Race Car Parts
I will take a couple pictures. |
| Goodbar |
02-24-2014 10:15 AM |
Thanks! picts would be great. I do wonder how much the ceramic coating insulates the heat radiating off the headers. I will check the link out.
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| mickmate |
02-24-2014 11:52 AM |
They all run a heat shield between headers/sidepipes if the masters are close by. I use Lava Mat over both sides of sheet metal and in some heat shields I sandwich an insulating material between two layers of sheet metal. Highly recommended since back to the originals.
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| BAsque1 |
02-24-2014 12:08 PM |
Goodbar:
that is a great question how to check the clutch fluid, i just stuck my finger from the top rim until I felt the fluid, but how to fill it I think if you could rig some type of squeezable bottle with a long hose that could work I guess. If you come up with something easier by all means let me know, I have the same dilemma.
Lou
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| Goodbar |
02-24-2014 09:43 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by BAsque1
(Post 1287933)
Goodbar:
that is a great question how to check the clutch fluid, i just stuck my finger from the top rim until I felt the fluid, but how to fill it I think if you could rig some type of squeezable bottle with a long hose that could work I guess. If you come up with something easier by all means let me know, I have the same dilemma.
Lou
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Well Geeeez now I dont feel like the dumbo I thought I was. Just seems odd to have a cap and res where one cant get the cap off and cant fill it (easy).
A turkey baster with a hose mashed on and a clean finger as a dip stick, yep it will get er done. Now I have to just get the cap off/ Honestly though everything else is all easy access and a joy to work on in the BDR, seems like there is room near the firewall they could placed these even with most big blocks but BDR I'm guessing wanted the engine bay super clean...which it is very nice.
I will most likley make my own heat shield using layered Polished aluim and using the materials suggested sandwiched in the middle.
Thanks |
| turbofanman731 |
02-26-2014 03:37 PM |
Early cars needed a heat shield and rerouting of the clutch hyd lines. The lines were too close to the headers and would boil the clutch fluid, with or with out the heat shields. I had to replace 4 clutch master cylinders before figuring that out.
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| 6t8stang |
02-27-2014 06:55 AM |
Certainly can't hurt to have the heat shield with ceramic coated headers - I have both.
As for checking/filling the clutch master cylinder, I can see the level if I stand next to the car and lean over the fender. To fill/flush, I bought the smallest bottle of fluid I could find and again leaning over the fender I can top off. I just keep refilling this little bottle and keep it just for this purpose. It takes some getting used to which way to bend/pour since everything is upside down at that point, but you'll get the hang of it.
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| Rick Parker |
02-27-2014 01:39 PM |
I have seen situations were a piece of larger diameter stainless tubing in either a strait or curved run is cut through the center lengthwise using either a Bandsaw or Plasma cutter so you essentially have a half tube in any plane. For instance if the exhaust tubing is 1.750 diameter, you use 2.250 (or larger)and split it. Then fabricate and weld on discrete legs that make it stand off the smaller tube by .250" or more depending on 1/2 the difference of the tube diameters. Then use narrow stainless hose clamps to secure it to the smaller tube. What you end up with is an air gap and a small heat shield. Is very effective, can be made to follow the tubung run exactly, and used in a limited area instead of matting if you are attempting to protect a specific component in a confined area. Done right this can be made to look very goodand well thought out.
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| Rbmack5 |
07-25-2014 09:07 PM |
How do you reroute the line?
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| wrogers55 |
07-25-2014 09:30 PM |
No matter what else you do, you will need to shield or re-route the clutch line away from the headers.
I actually left it in place on 318, but put a some spiral wound heat shielding around the line and have had no problems in Texas heat. Before that, about 20 minutes into a ride, the clutch went to mush and fluid was black when bled out of the slave. Nasty.
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