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Any advice on a specific car build number or range of build numbers to start looking at when looking at used cars? For example does a builder keep their own numbers or is the car serialized based on the actual number of BDR cars that have been produced? I have heard from a few BDR customers and a few have had multiple cars and say that these cars have continued to approve. I was advised to look into cars after 2009 but that is personal opinion and I was not provided with any facts on why the cars 2009+ may have been improved.
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I bought a second hand 2009 BDR with a Roush 342r while I was strongly considering a Coyote. It had 7000 miles on it when I bought it.
Not one complaint on car. |
For what it's worth, I have had my BDR next to Superformances at shows and I get a lot more attention. Fit and finish are very similar, no paint differences, and the quality is subjective at best. There are plenty of posts on here from BDR and SPF owners who have had their fair share of issues. Some get lucky and some not so lucky is what is boils down to. The BDRs have a much more aggressive stance, and the SPFs are more tailored towards the "I want an exact replica" if that even exists (and since you are only asking about these two builds). Not to mention for either build, you can pick just about every component imaginable to make it your own. I bought my BDR and I'm not looking back. My next will be a BDR. AND, I will deal with no one other than Jay and Brian at Vintage. Oh, and the motor question, keep in mind these cars weight in at a about 2500 lbs give or take a bit. Stop light to stop light you are something to be reckoned with.
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Sounds awesome at idle. However, as Jay indicates, there are "drive ability" issues. Namely, it will stumble and backfire something nasty when driving and more importantly, it WILL stall out quite a bit (had some close calls on the road with this!). Upon contacting Lund, and only after the fact, he mentions that the ghost tune is not really meant for real world driving, more for just shows (would have been nice if he stated this before we installed it!). As a result, I pretty much now just keep it in the regular tune and switch it to the Ghost tune when I feel like turning some heads:) Point of note...if you do go for the tune, make sure you have a manual fuel pump shutoff switch installed. The tune download requires "key on" for quite some time which always drained my battery. Needed to jump start after every download until I got the switch installed. Jay, as I understand from Reg that you guys are working a lot with Lund these days, have you gotten him to improve these drive ability characteristics at all? Seems like he just needed some prodding to invest the time to improve the tune. Would be great to be able to drive more reliably in Ghost Tune mode. Feel free to contact me with any questions on this. |
For me it was the tail lights... every time I see a SP cobra I can't help but think about how ugly the tail lights are.
It may seem like a small thing but it is a reflection on the overall thoughtfulness that went into the Backdraft design. I simply don't understand the motivation to have an exact copy of a car that had in it's original form imperfections that were the result of the generation of technology and manufacturing capability they had at the time. PS- I've lurked here for a while, never posted anything until now. I have #1333. |
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Different strokes..... |
Exactly I hate the round lights and only would want my car with the rectangular ones.
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Yes, the round stacked lights bring the quarter panels to a finish while the rectangular lights look like afterthought. As you say, different strokes.... and I am pretty particular about small details (I had backdraft build the dash with the switches mounted under dash in order clean it up, who needs to look at switches i won't using, like wipers?)
More to the point, I didn't want a replica. I wanted a better car than the original while being thematically consistent with the original. Longer wheelbase, the aggressive stance, and modern suspension was a winner for me. Who knows, in a year or so I'll be bored and looking for something else... lately I have been looking for vintage Broncos but my wife really wants a DB9, much to my dismay. Quote:
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Here's where our approach is unique, every single coyote car we deliver is uniquely tuned by Lund on our Dynojet. Let me type that again... Every Coyote car we deliver now is run on our Dynojet with a base tune and then tweeked and retuned by Lund. We now have a priceless library of results on the chassis dyno in these cars and it's paying off. The Cobra oval air cleaner eats 50rwhp or more, the Roush oval air cleaner eats 40rwhp, the small block BDR factory headers will not support over 500rwhp, the drivetrain loss of a tremec in a BDR is below 15%... We are now entering the modified Coyote realm with some new builds. Hold on... |
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to Reg down here in FL so that my car can be set up to run better? |
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Our sc Coyote builds so far have had restrictions. 1 was a Roush crate so we could do nothing without impacting warranty. The next 1 was destined for CA so it needed to run on 91 octane and it was with an automatic. Just did another as a winter upgrade that was on the 11.1 Aluminator so we had that restriction. However we've got some builds now that will open things up...
1 on the SC low compression Aluminator. 1 on the SC low comp Aluminator but with VMP blower and running on E85 1 on stock Coyote with stage 3 cams, cobra jet intake, and other tweaks. Lund works remote with us, since we own the dyno it's not an issue to wait overnight for the optimal tune to come back. |
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What did you buy? BDR or SPF? |
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