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Thanks for the great advice from all of you! I am hoping to get the carb and timing worked out this Saturday. Am working with my brother in law, a master ford mechanic at Mocks Ford, who has several classics and knows the carb well etc.
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Those plugs will not cause the car to run rich. It might miss, but that won't effect the fuel mixture.
You still have a fuel problem. |
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Kevin..... |
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When mine was delivered it was so out of time it even died between shifts. There is no way my Cobra was tuned, adjusted or tested at the dealer. I think they just installed the parts and put it on the truck for shipment.
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Kevin..... |
Custom Cars of Boynton Beach.
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Okay, Saturday went through the 500 mile checklist. Snugged up any bolts loose which were many. Add to the checklist to check the trunk bolt that holds the bracket arm raising the trunk lid.
The timing was good at 12 degrees idle and 32 total advance. Ended up backing off the 4 needle screws in the carb from 2 turns out to 3/4 turn out which was max vacuum. Runs like it should now. Black smoke exhaust is gone. Runs hotter so the fan comes on now. I may add a Holley fuel pressure gauge if I can figure out a nice little bracket mount so it is isolated from the engine vibration. I may also experiment with the centrifugal springs in the distributor to change the advance curve a bit and will report back. Mark... |
Okay, Saturday went through the 500 mile checklist. Snugged up any bolts loose which were many. Add to the checklist to check the trunk bolt that holds the bracket arm raising the trunk lid.
The timing was good at 12 degrees idle and 32 total advance. Ended up backing off the 4 needle screws in the carb from 2 turns out to 3/4 turn out which was max vacuum. Runs like it should now. Black smoke exhaust is gone. Runs hotter so the fan comes on now. I may add a Holley fuel pressure gauge if I can figure out a nice little bracket mount so it is isolated from the engine vibration. I may also experiment with the centrifugal springs in the distributor to change the advance curve a bit and will report back. Mark... |
I have build number 1220 from Custom Cars. It was delivered in June 2013. It would not start when delivered. To unload from the car carrier we removed the air cleaner and set the choke. I had nothing but problems with the car starting for quite sometime. It has taken me a year to sort out the carb and timing problems. It was also built by Total Engine Concepts. If I knew what I know now I would have bought from Vintage Motorsports. Here is my set up:
1. Timing is 10 deg BTC total advance 34 deg at 3500 RPM 2. Idle is 950 RPM 3. 670 cfm Avenger Carb idle screws set at 1 turn out from closed. 4. Choke set at 2.5 marks 5. Carburetor floats set just below center of site glass Just a note, when cold I have to tap the accelerator three time to start. When hot I need to pump the gas peddle a couple of times to start. Don't know if this normal but it is what I need to do to start car. Any suggestions from anyone? |
Another problem I had was the car would load up and cause sever missing. The plugs where as you have described wet and black. The original plugs were NGK 5671A-7 racing plugs. These plugs are to cold to stay clean if you are not racing. If you mainly just cruse with wide open throttle once in awhile than use NKG BKR5EY or Autolite 3924 which are two heat ranges hotter and self clean themselves reducing missing.
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I have set my idle to 800-850, any rpm's higher than that, the engine will "run on" after I turn the ignition off. If I had it to do over again I would have bought from Vintage also. I got zero customer support from Custom Cars.
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Tim
Did changing to a hotter plug help your Iconic 427 run better? Mine "loads up" unless I am on the open road. The hotter plugs should make a difference. I only have to depress the gas one time to start mine when cold. |
I am running the autolite 3924 plugs and idle is 1100 were it runs smooth with no missing. All 4 carb needles on the Holley 670 are set at 3/4 turn out. No run on and starts easy. So far so good with the Iconic 427. Took awhile to get it all worked out.
Do have an oil leak at the front of the pan where the motor builder put gobs of black silicon where the oil pan curves around the crank. Guess that will be a winter project next time I get it on a lift. |
spark plugs
Thanks for the info. I will change mine to the hotter Autolite 3924. It baffles me why the correct plugs are not installed from the get-go. This small thing has caused a lot of frustration, there is no excuse for a new car to run this poorly.
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The hotter plugs do not load up for me. Anytime I ask it to go it now never misses all the way to redline. I changed my timing this past weekend from 10 to 12 deg BTDC and closed the four idling screws down from one turn open to 3/4 turn. The car now starts without messing with the gas pedal except when cold. Then I just depress the pedal once to set the chock. Car starts right up. Thanks for the information.
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Changing to the hotter plug has resulted in no missing any time I asked it to go all the way to redline. Before it would miss after cruising when I would get on it. It would then clear itself until the next time I got on it. It was very frustrating. This past weekend I changed my timing from 10 deg to 12 deg BTDC and closed the four idle screws from one turn open to 3/4 turn open. The car now starts when cold with only one depress of the gas pedal to set the chock. When starting hot I just turn the key and it starts right up. I have the idle set at 950 to 1000 rpms with no run after the ignition is turned off. Thanks for all the information.
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Understanding that my engine is different from yours (mine: 427 stroked to 487, solid roller, hotter cam, single plane intake, custom built Quick Fuel 850 race carb), I run my total advance at 36-37, use the black bushing to "retard" the idle timing, and use one light silver and one light blue spring. That seems to be the best combination for timing for my engine. I also use AR3924 racing plugs. I used to have carbon fouling problems but the car now seems to be dialed in better with smaller jets (72 primary, 84 secondary) and slightly larger high-speed air bleeds. Since mine is a solid roller, Brent advised me to idle it at 1100-1200 for proper lube, so it would run on at this speed. ERAChas suggested I let it idle high, put on the parking brake, put the car in second, hold the brake, and slowly let out the clutch until the engine speed gets dragged down somewhat. Simultaneously, I cut the ignition. It sounds difficult but it is really very simple and completely eliminates the run on.
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Iconic 427 UPDATE
If your engine has a Pertronix distributor, that might be the problem. I replaced my Pertronix with a MSD 8350 Pro-Billet distributor. It did make a
big difference on the running of the car. It runs smoother and idles much better. Also it has increased the low end drive-ability and the overall performance. |
Make sure you have the correct gear material on that new distributor. Losing that carb would go a long way too.
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