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Steering disapointment
I have a new BDR with manual steering. The car drives very stiff. By stiff I am referring to the return to center. If you turn the steering wheel in either direction the wheels remain turned in that direction until turned back. Most cars will recenter themselves once the steering wheel is released. There has to be a remedy for this tightness. Any suggestions?
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Not enough caster set in the alignment or binding rack.
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Quote:
Stock rack 4.0 turns lock to lock Non M BMW Z3 rack 2.7 turns lock to lock Kevin..... |
Sounds like it's out of alignment.
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+1 on alignment
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Definitely not enough caster or the rack is binding. As a quick and dirty test, just jack it up and turn the steering wheel slowly lock to lock a few times and feel for any binding. There isn't much droop in the Backdraft fronts jacked up so it's not a perfect test, but will tell you if there is an obvious problem with the rack.
Then have it aligned with a special emphasis on caster. You can set the caster to you liking to self center, more as opposed to less is always safer but takes a little more effort initially. When you get it right, that Backdraft will be a real pleasure to drive! |
Does it do this hot and cold, or just hot?
Could be steering wheel bushings. |
Or a binding ball joint?
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Have seen balljoints, tie rods, racks, and alignment contribute to this. So you have to start somewhere. Has your dealer put some test miles on it to verify?
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Thanks for the help. It was purchased as total turn key. BDR #1337. Factory should have had it dialed in, I thought. I will have the alignment checked to get a baseline reading and then repost.
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How many miles were on it when you received it? What are the specs on the car? Engine etc. When you say you purchased it turn key, who did you purchase it from?
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I'd do a quick alignment check, but I'd still be putting the car on a hoist, disconnect each tie rod end to isolate each steering knuckle from the rack. Now you have each knuckle, top and bottom ball joint to test (left and right), and the steering rack/steering input shaft to test, each independent of each other. The alignment would have be a fair bit out to not self centre, either not enough castor or insufficient toe-in. I've had cars where one other tech has fitted a rack then it needs a wheel align. He says should be close. Drive like rubbish and would keep turning into corners because of massive toe-out. Of course the car driving as badly as it did would scrub the tyres out in 50km if you left like that.
How does your car drive otherwise? |
The car had about 60 miles on it. It has the Roush 427 R. I will get to setting it up in the spring. Is stored until then. To many other projects now. I do thank each and everyone for your support. I purchased the car from Lonestar Muscle Cars. Wichita Falls, Texas
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I'd suggest getting it addressed sooner rather than later from a dealer/warranty perspective.
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Don't waste your money replacing steering rack and parts as some have suggested, that's a typical knee jerk reaction to fix a problem with out knowing the cause, like our government does...throw time and money at a problem.
If the steering "binds", your term, only one direction and generally feels good, it's not likely the rack or a mechanical issue. The caster setting is a likely suspect. Should be a warranty fix. |
Got to it today
I raised the car up and put it on stands. It was still very tight and difficult to turn. I removed the wheels and the tie rod ends. The spindles turns easily on each side. I removed the connector from the column to the rack. Turns freely. The problem seems to be in the rack itself. It appears the grease in the tie rods and pinion is almost like glue. I think I will have to send this back to Backdraft and have it evaluated.
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