Club Cobra - Got delivery yesterday and need some help

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- - Got delivery yesterday and need some help (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/backdraft-racing/138419-got-delivery-yesterday-need-some-help.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by JUS BIT (Post 1421518)

I am really sorry to hear that you had this many problems with your new BDR. I know these are new cars and they have to be shaken down to get all the bugs out. As a long time dealer for Backdraft Racing, we have seen all types of small issues here and there on almost every build. These are hand built in a factory and then hand assembled for the drive train. Knowing that, when every BDR is built here at Radical Roadsters of Texas, we do a complete check of all the suspension, brakes, steering, chassis, electronics, etc. before any car is delivered to the customer. Often, that is around 100 miles.

Once the BDR is driven quite a few times we triple check the same checklist of items and also ensure all the components we installed for the engine/drivetrain are working and tuned properly. This prevents the customers from having minimal issues after delivery.

But these are custom built cars, and it usually takes about 500 miles to sort out all the little quirks that might come up. So at 500 miles you should definitely take the car in for a 500 mile service to your closest dealer or adequate hot rod shop. Your book should have the 500 mile service checklist in it. If you don't have it, I can send it along electronically.

By the way, I have the same color combo built here at Radical Roadsters for a customer locally. It is a gorgeous car.

For the red lights, one is the low brake fluid and the other is the no charging light. That Roush 427 probably has a single wire alternator so that light will not be used, they are only used on the 3 wire alts. Your brake fluid must have gone somewhere. If you cant find a leak on the line or at the calipers, then it is most likely in the inside of the booster. If so, you have a problem that needs to be addressed asap. That brake fluid will ruin a booster quickly. The master cylinder and booster will have to be replaced. Also why you have no brakes..

The shaking at 2000-3000 RPM is most likely a suspect of imbalance with the flywheel, clutch, or drive shaft. First make sure your motor mounts are tight to the frame as well as the trans mount. Then, if that is not the case, maybe the clutch is not balanced with the flywheel if it shakes that much. Or the flywheel is out of balance or the wrong weight. For 427s it could be a zero balanced or 28 ounce balanced flywheel, you would need to check with Roush on which one you got.

Lastly, the yellow light is the fan on light, the blue is the high beam (activated by pulling the blinker arm towards you), and the green is the blinker...

If you ever need some input, feel free to reach out to me any time as I am not on this forum often enough to answer questions. Best of luck and that is a beautiful car!

James

James,

Thank you for your help and advice, I knew what i was getting myself into, but I didn't expect it on delivery. Just had the beat weather ever last weekend and the BDR being stuck in the garage.

This is really unacceptable and the OP is really handling it with calm and patience. Personally I'd be demanding more from the installer and manufacturer. After delivering a car with that many issues, not to mention dangerous, I'd be finding somebody trustworthy locally to make the car right (and it sounds like it will be some $) and make sure I'm being reimbursed.

Klaus, what happened ??

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ozzie Goat (Post 1422302)

Klaus, what happened ??

I wanted to update all of you once I have the car back, right now back at Backdraft in Boynton Beach and I'm waiting to hear back. I will keep you posted.

Wishing you the best.

More importantly, looking forward to that first -all's right- drive report.

After you get all the items repaired on the car. YOU NEED A MECHANIC. If not your in for some nights of missed sleep and a lot of problems to address.

Although I agree that knowing where to get a good mechanic is essential, I think that we all got these cars because we love to work on them to the extent that our knowledge, ability, resourcefulness and patience allow. The comparative lack of complexity in a car with no computer-controlled engine, no a/c or heater, no p/s, no et.al., facilitates trying your hand at fixing and improving things between those great drives we enjoy so much.

I agree with Kobura in that we own our Cobras because we love to drive them and also love to work on them on work that we are capable and comfortable performing. My first Backdraft Cobra (#101) performed well and the routine checks and few mechanical/electrical problems were most readily resolved by me in my garage. I had no manuals or spec sheets but the car was rather simple in design/fab. My current Backdraft Cobra (#1360) I purchased from Jonathan Motorscars in Edgewater Park, NJ--the first Backdraft Cobra they sold. Roush built the 427R (550 HP) engine and it was installed by Speed Fanatics with a 6-speed Tremec tranny. I have enjoyed mostly trouble free driving performance since I took possession of the car in January, 2015. I have replaced the starter, the turn signals are poor as is the emergency breaks. All in all, its a great car and performs above my expectations. I do have a manual, but it is of limited use, rather focusing on drive train assembly with some instrumentation/electrical specs--not great but helpful. Backdraft could definitely improve in the contents of their Backdraft manuals.

Car is back and my wife an I had a blast today, just a little to hot for no A/C :D

Dealer kind of left me stranded, I thought it would be better to go through them as they buy a lot of Backdrafts, but I guess once they have your money they don't think they have to "perform" anymore. They kept telling me Backdraft will contact me again and again, but nothing. On May 16th I have called Reg at Backdraft and the car was picked up the next day.:)

On May 22nd Reg emailed me:

"When they were powdered coated they were baked too hot
which melted the seals in the brake system. We are having a new set
powder coated at a lower temperature to replace them. We expect to have
them back tomorrow. We will install them and then road test the car. We
hope to have it ready to come back to you before the end of the week."

All good, but what about the steering column blinker/light switch and the vibration? No answer to my email:mad: and hoping they really baked one at at time, not all 4 for the next leak to come.

No call or anything, just thought OK, car not being back for the long weekend, but fine. Got a call yesterday, Saturday the 28th, trailer guy telling me he was calling and calling, but he had the wrong number and it took a while to figure it out. He could bring the car next day Sunday and I said YES sure, bring it.

We were driving it right after they brought it back and the blink/light steering column switch still does not feel right, have to try it in the night if the light stays on or not. Engine still has the weird vibration, I know the radical cam, but it just is too much, had a radar detector mounted to the windshield and the rubber cups keep coming off from the vibration. All fine over 3K rpm, but not below on constant speed. (IT STILL WAS FUN):LOL::LOL::LOL:

I appreciate how Backdraft got the car back to me, but communication is another story.

I will get it checked out locally, I have brakes now :LOL:

I know everyone likes to work on their cars, so to I, but anything requiring a lift I can't do and there is also the time factor and the 100 F in my garage.

Once again thank you to everyone for you advice and help really appreciate it. If I would buy one again I would go to Radical Roadsters of Texas, looks like they stand behind the product they are selling.

Anyone around here in Brevard County Florida let me know, would love to meet up.

Thanks!

Klaus

Glad you got it back and at least the brakes are fixed. That's kind of important. ;)

The turn signal issue sounds a bit annoying but may resolve itself.

The vibration is a problem. That does not sound right and you really need to get the car back to them to fix it. Sounds like a potentially expensive problem and one you want paid by warranty, not out of your pocket. Did they address that at all in any of your correspondence with them?

Perhaps I am dense, but how does power coating the wheels overheat the brake seals? The wheels would be off the car when coated and baked and the brakes would still be on the chassis. I would ask for a better, more thorough explanation.

I doubt Backdraft is going to help with the engine issues. They didn't build or install that engine. You need to go back to the engine builder and dealer for that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark IV (Post 1422756)

Maybe because they powdercoated the calipers and that was the issue :rolleyes:

So they powdercoat the calipers without pulling them apart? Is that the norm? I pull the pistons and seals out of the caliper, tape it all off, powdercoat and bake it, then reassemble it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cashburn (Post 1422792)

Maybe because they powdercoated the calipers and that was the issue :rolleyes:

Jay,

Yes, that makes sense but he did say "wheels"....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al G (Post 1422778)

I doubt Backdraft is going to help with the engine issues. They didn't build or install that engine. You need to go back to the engine builder and dealer for that.

Well, could be clutch, transmission, driveshaft, suspension, any number of issues related to installation. So whoever installed the drivetrain should look at it.

Sure the calipers, not the wheels. What I don't understand is why they had to power coat new ones and not just replace the seals.

Speed Fanatics did the engine install, but I will have it checked out locally here to get a second opinion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark IV (Post 1422794)

Jay,

Yes, that makes sense but he did say "wheels"....

Yeah the :rolleyes: was just a general :rolleyes: on the whole deal :3DSMILE:

Brake issue is back

Checked the brake fluid today before driving it and reservoir is empty again. Looks like air didn't make it in the system yet, but it's empty. GREAT! Does anyone know which DOT fluid the car comes with? There is not enough in there to test if it is silicone or glycol based and I want to top it off to drive it to a local shop.

Started checking around the wheels for maybe fluid and another too hot baking issue :JEKYLHYDE and saw duct tape on the inside of the left front wheel, very strange as it wasn't there when I was hunting for the leak last time. Couldn't get it off so no idea why it's there, maybe a big deep scratch?

Next I discovered a paint chip, that was not there before and it looks like someone dropped tools on it. Some pics here.

Perhaps Jay will chime in and confirm, but I seriously doubt it is silicone fluid. I would use DOT 4 and be done with it.

I don't know of ANY manufacturer that factory fills silicone fluid. The benefits of silicone (non-hydroscopic) make it a liability for a daily driver, i.e. any moisture (and there WILL be moisture) in the system will pool at the lowest point of the system and cause corrosion at that point. Glycol fluid will keep the moisture in suspension so it can be removed when the fluid is serviced at a fluid change....you DO change your fluid semi-annulally, right?