| tims210 |
08-31-2017 06:37 PM |
Faulty Tail Light Housing
I've fallen victim to the melted tail light housing. The heat from the bulb did a number on it and now it won't accept a new replacement bulb. I was told to upgrade to a more heat tolerant housing that is white in color instead of the black one I have. It's supposed to be from a Land Rover Defender. I'm not familiar with what year and model it should be so I'm asking if anyone has any information so I can order one. The bulb is a dual filament.
Thanks
|
| spdbrake |
08-31-2017 08:21 PM |
|
| jeffnolan |
08-31-2017 11:01 PM |
My headlight receptacles melted. I replaced them with ceramic units and LED headlights.
|
| tims210 |
09-01-2017 07:23 PM |
I'm not looking to go LED at this point.
|
| spdbrake |
09-01-2017 08:36 PM |
|
| 123redtail |
09-02-2017 02:51 PM |
goto any parts store get universal socket assembly part # 08547 . cut old one( socket part only) out expoxy new one in. I did it about $5 for part 15 minutes. looks factory if you tape edges with blue tape and wipe expoexy clean with a rag with wd40 on it.
|
| 123redtail |
09-02-2017 02:59 PM |
go to ebay ,search 08547 socket. I did mine 2 years ago always have worked perfect since.
|
| 6t8stang |
09-02-2017 03:36 PM |
I can't think of a good reason NOT to go LED at this point. You have to replace the socket anyway...you can cut the old socket and solder in an LED cluster directly to the harness now.
Not only do they run cooler, you won't need to worry about an intermittent socket, they draw less power, they're MUCH brighter, etc...
|
| jeffnolan |
09-02-2017 07:11 PM |
my experience with this electrical system is that any time I can replace something and draw fewer amps, it’s a good thing. I’m pretty sure my harness was put together on Friday, at 4:45pm. The connections are pretty sloppy and I’ve had a lot of melted components and wires on factory pieces, like the headlamp sockets. I’m LED all around now and aside from missing the dome of a traditional headlight and how that compliments the pontoon fender, I think it’s a solid upgrade.
|
| joyridin' |
09-03-2017 07:33 AM |
I just replaced the old Lucas tail lights in mine a few weeks ago with LED lights from United Pacific. Fit perfectly and took about an hour to install. Numerous people have told me that my old lights weren't working, but they were just dim in the bright sun. The LED's look identical and are bright avoiding me having to put in a 3rd brake light so people could see me stop.
Well worth the $100.
|
| tims210 |
09-03-2017 06:35 PM |
I took the advice from the other thread and bought a universal replacement socket. Modified the old housing. Works fine.
As far as the LED's go, are they just plug and play or does some type of load need to be applied in the circuit?
|
| jeffnolan |
09-05-2017 12:57 PM |
plug-and-play.
|
| BDR_Boy |
09-05-2017 01:40 PM |
Jeffnolan... I'm with you on the idea of shedding as much load as possible. I was going to follow your lead and go with LED bulbs. I wanted to research headlights but, in the interim, thought I would replace the smaller marker/brake/turn signal bulbs. I just got back from the auto parts store & the guy there said the single elements would function properly, but the dual elements would not.
Is he misinformed? You're certain they're plug & play?
|
| joyridin' |
09-05-2017 04:10 PM |
They were plug-n-play for me. Hooked up the wires and everything worked fine. Most of the new ones have a load resistor built in to compensate. That is assuming you buy the whole light. If you are just trying to replace the bulb, that might be an issue.
Also, if you are thinking about headlights, you have to have a housing that is totally clear like most new cars have. It cannot have lines in it like a sealed beam or like many Hella replacement housings. If you have housings with lines cut/molded in them, Phillips make a bulb (can't remember name) that mimics LED bulbs and is extremely bright when used with relays.
|
| BDR_Boy |
09-06-2017 07:00 AM |
Thanks for the clarification... that's exactly what I was hoping to do... and now I see how & why that won't work.
|
| Kobura |
09-06-2017 09:42 AM |
I have had failures of the brake light sockets and the hydraulic brake light switch. I replaced the melted plastic sockets with metal sockets keeping the incandescent bulbs and replaced the hydraulic switch with a mechanical brake pedal switch because I couldn't access the hydraulic switch easily to remove and replace. I find the incandescent bulbs draw enough power to cause my voltage meter to drop noticeably enough to verify that they are operating. Same with the turn signal lights. So, my wife is no longer called upon to participate in brake light checks.
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:59 PM. |
|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link:
