|
Ignition Switch
1 Attachment(s)
I lost one of my ignition keys and the locksmith said they couldn’t duplicate my old one. Any tips on getting the old ignition switch out. I thought I could turn the collar but the whole switch rotated and I’m afraid that I will tear the vinyl dash. I didn’t feel a collar nut on the in side. It is an old style switch.
Thanks. |
2 little electrical screwdrivers should turn the front part of the switch really well. Just be very careful with them and you won't tear the dash.
|
You need to get an “ignition ring nut removal tool” - it has fingers that will align to those slots on the collar of your switch so that you can keep the whole switch from rotating while you unscrew it from the back. I saw some online but they come in different diameters and with different number of fingers.
When you replace it consider getting one that just has a knurled collar that you can hold with your fingers or soft jawed pliers. Mike |
Snap ring pliers should work
|
I ordered a tool on line that should hold the collar. But I tried a small pair of pliers (I know-too impatience—but I used a microfiber towel to avoid scratches). But I still couldn’t turn the switch from the behind the dash to loosen it. I’m pretty much stumped. Any suggestions short of drilling it out which I hope to avoid.
Maybe Jay knows some tips for an early BDR. Thanks. |
I ran into a situation that dictated the need for a new ignition switch key. I was reluctant to change out the entire switch so I "Googled" the switch and key codes to find either a complete key or a blank. Couldn't find the complete key but did locate a blank. Paid approx. $7.00 for the blank and had a local locksmith make a new key. Just a thought.
|
2 Attachment(s)
I just got the four finger tool from Classic Industries and it fits and worked. I got the ignition switch out with no damage to the dash. Amazing what a proper tool can do. :)
The old switch has four connectors but with only 2 wires going to it. There are no markings on the switch or on the wires (1 wire has a white label but no writing on it). The new switch also has 4 connectors: battery; ignition; acc; and ST. I’m guessing the wire with the white tag is from the battery and the other wire goes to the ignition. Any suggestions other than trying it? I don’t want to burn something out. Sorry to sound electrically challenged. Thanks. Well the white wire was to the ignition and the unlabeled wire was to the battery. Cranked right up. The new switch is bigger around and a tight fit. But now I have the extra key. |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:28 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: