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That pan looks perfect!
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(But the pan is still lower than the frame?)
Yes. My frame rails are 5 1/4'', the oil pan is 4 1/4", and the rear cross member is 3 1/4" ground clearance. It's certainly not ideal, but it's been working. |
I took an extreme/opposite approach and put some bushings at the motor mounts to lift the motor itself. I also have the Ford Racing 392. I wanted both the 9qt pan as well as a 3" oval filter. With some tweaking I was able to get the bottom of the frame rails level with the pan and also fit the air filter. It's been perfect ever since.
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That sounds like it works!
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It is also possible to install a skid plate to protect the pan from being hit directly. Something that is regularly done on off road vehicles.
Thom |
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http://i.imgur.com/rq1I5Zim.jpg |
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I looked at every pan I could find for my new dart aluminum windsor, looking for a shallow pan. Kevco F506 was the best I could find. 7" depth....everything else was 7.5" or more at that time. It's a full depth pan front to back, holds 9 qts.
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Pan Depth: 7” Pan Capacity: 10-11 Quarts (9.5-10.4 Liters) System Capacity: 11-12 Quarts (10.4-11.4Liters) That's a much different capacity than you indicated - though 9 quarts is still lots. https://kevkoracing.com/collections/...nt=34324449486 In my case I needed a pan that would reflect the angle the engine was installed. In order to have the bottom of the pan parallel to (and above) the frame rails, it was built with the front of the pan 1 5/8" deeper than the rear. A box pan as shown on the Kevko website wouldn't deal with that. I paid $520 for the pan, including pickup, so that's not a lot more for a pan custom built to meet my requirements. |
I'm surprised that anyone has had problems with their Canton. Some areas of the welding aren't pretty like I weld, but it's not bad enough to leak or separate. I once had a Moroso that sucked. I have all the parts that Canton has for the FE, the working and quality are wonderful.
To the OP, if you drive spirited like I do, have extra oil to cool is nice, but I also have a oil cooler when needed. |
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John |
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Nope! Would really show up on the 911 parked beneath it.
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Just sent you a PM |
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Went to visit the Aviaid shop today. Very impressive shop - where racing oil pans are born!:LOL:
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Not so much for ground clearance, but for maintaining oil pressure during spirited cornering. Both my 385 series engines have them and both needed Accusumps installed to prevent loss of oil pressure while cornering. Even on the street a momentary loss of oil pressure can be induced by steering left-right quickly a few times! This after checking the pickup clearance to be correct according to their recommendation. BTW guess who makes the Accusump? :rolleyes: I asked the Canton folks once at PRI what data they had to show the pans were effective (their so-called road-race pans) and they said no data, just followed the practice of trap doors, scrapers etc... When I asked whether they were going to improve them, they responded - no. I'd do an Aviaid or Armando next time. My .02, Tom |
So I have decided to go with the Aviaid pan. I loose some oil capacity yet gain a ton of 'piece of mind' and not have to worry about putting holes in my current pan from scraping.
Couple of questions: 1) What type of pan gasket do I use (aside from the steel reinforced rubber one piece)? This particular pan is notched along the rails. I have heard that you use a smooth gasket for notched rails and a ribbed gasket for smooth rails. Inputs? P/N's would also be appreciated. 2) Is there a gasket that goes between the pickup and the pump? 3) RTV ONLY at the corners where the gasket transitions from the rail to the crank? 4) Torque values for the pan bolts and oil pick up bolts? |
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https://www.fordracingparts.com/imag...M-6674-302.jpg In addition to the reinforcement rails, I also replaced the oil pan bolts with studs and 'flange nuts'. Others may disagree, but IMO the pan is easier to install that way, plus the flange nuts have one way 'teeth' where they meet the pan rails to help prevent loosening. |
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