Club Cobra

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)
-   BackDraft Racing --- (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/backdraft-racing/)
-   -   brake light on vrs pedal distance (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/backdraft-racing/144422-brake-light-vrs-pedal-distance.html)

Steve Gallegos 01-26-2021 12:50 PM

brake light on vrs pedal distance
 
I have a backdraft,#595, when I push on the brake pedal the brake light does not come on until I am almost to the end of the distance that the pedal goes. I was told to put a external switch on the pedal arm but if I do that so the switch turns on the light, I wont be able to continue to push the pedal down to apply the brakes. Should I try to bleed the the brakes to see if the pedal comes up higher, or is something else needed?

lnfletcher 01-26-2021 01:50 PM

Put a normally closed switch at the return of the pedal with a return spring to keep it engaged until you brake. Then it will not matter what the travel is on the brake.

cycleguy55 01-26-2021 04:25 PM

Right, like Infletcher said. Something like this one:

https://media.digikey.com/photos/Omr...0SS-01GL2D.jpg

These often have three pins and can be wired either normally open or normally closed. If you look closely you can see the pins on this one are labeled (L-R): C (common / hot), NO (normally open) and NC (normally closed).

Wire it so it's normally closed. The circuit will be open when the roller is pressed against the brake arm and when you press on the pedal the arm will move away from the roller and close the circuit, energizing the brake light circuit.

https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/d...SS-5GL2D/17243

twobjshelbys 01-26-2021 04:43 PM

Be aware of contact current ratings if the lights aren't on a relay. You want a switch not a fuse.

Steve Gallegos 01-26-2021 05:03 PM

what about using a door jam interior light switch?

spdbrake 01-26-2021 05:38 PM

Steve this thread should help.
Member True007 had a good quick fix for a plunger normally closed switch with bracket and PN
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/back...ke-lights.html

Pics here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pplph2b2p...n8UXn1oFa?dl=0

Steve Gallegos 01-26-2021 05:59 PM

Thank everyone for the help, getting mechanical switch tomorrow.

cycleguy55 01-26-2021 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys (Post 1488180)
Be aware of contact current ratings if the lights aren't on a relay. You want a switch not a fuse.

Yes, good point. I've put a link in to that switch. It's rated at 5A 125VAC - I have no idea what the DC rating would be. Regardless, there are plenty of switches out there that would work.

cycleguy55 01-26-2021 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdbrake (Post 1488183)
Steve this thread should help.
Member True007 had a good quick fix for a plunger normally closed switch with bracket and PN
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/back...ke-lights.html

Pics here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pplph2b2p...n8UXn1oFa?dl=0

https://uc86779b5dd19b8f13525c5ed4b4...ue&size_mode=5

https://uc896b1662f1f2be5915a4c5d011...ue&size_mode=5

Standard Motor Brake Light Sending Units SLS66
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-sls66

Probably available at virtually any auto parts store.

Quentin Z 01-27-2021 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdbrake (Post 1488183)
Steve this thread should help.
Member True007 had a good quick fix for a plunger normally closed switch with bracket and PN
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/back...ke-lights.html

Pics here https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pplph2b2p...n8UXn1oFa?dl=0

Great pix! That guy must be a genius! :D

spdbrake 01-27-2021 06:03 PM

Sorry Quentin is that was your fix and I misnamed it. I remember saving the Dropbox pics link and thought I tagged the genius correctly, lol

IMLost 01-30-2021 03:10 PM

Too many times too many make it far mor complicated than necessary. Simple bracket with a momentary contact switch. 1 bracket. 1 hole, 1 switch. 2 wires. 1 fix. Done go drive.

Steve Gallegos 02-02-2021 01:19 PM

spdbrake, how did you get or what did you use to get the wiring from the engine bay to under the dash through the drilled hole to the switch?

Quentin Z 02-02-2021 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Gallegos (Post 1488495)
spdbrake, how did you get or what did you use to get the wiring from the engine bay to under the dash through the drilled hole to the switch?

Just disconnect the wires from the pressure switch and leave them zipped up somewhere around there. Use a jumper wire with matching male connections from that point to the new switch. Heat shrink, so they don't ground out & complete the circuit. Drill the hole up from the foot well, and run the jumper wire down through it to the new switch. Crimp on the female ends and connect in to the new switch. Viola.

Steve Gallegos 02-05-2021 04:05 PM

Ok guys, I installed the mechanical switch, did not work, I reconnected the original brake line to the switch on the reservoir , it doesn't work. Do I need to replace the switch? Fuses are good.

Gaz64 02-05-2021 04:12 PM

Can you post a photo of your switch installation Steve?

Quentin Z 02-08-2021 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Gallegos (Post 1488685)
Ok guys, I installed the mechanical switch, did not work, I reconnected the original brake line to the switch on the reservoir , it doesn't work. Do I need to replace the switch? Fuses are good.

Do the lights come on when you touch the wire ends together?

cycleguy55 02-08-2021 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Gallegos (Post 1488685)
Ok guys, I installed the mechanical switch, did not work, I reconnected the original brake line to the switch on the reservoir , it doesn't work. Do I need to replace the switch? Fuses are good.

When you use an electrical tester, do you have current between either of those leads and a good ground? If not, then you'll have to trace the circuit back to the fuse box.

BTW, when I first received my car (not a BDR) the stop light switch only worked when the ignition was on. Obviously that would be an immediate failure on any safety inspection and one of the first deficiencies to be addressed.


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:04 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: