E-brake adjustment
 

I've tried without much success adjusting the two cables that go to the E brake lever. Can't get the brake to grip well enough to keep the car from moving on a slight grade. Do I need to make the adjustment at the rear brakes? From my understanding, the brakes used for the E brake are separate pads than the regular brakes.

There are two ways to adjust the BMW E36 brakes on your car.
Easy: Jack the rear so you can feel the internal drag of the mini-drums as you go. Remove the brake handle boot run the nuts down on the threaded cable ends. You can also stack additional washers under the nuts to remove more slop/play in the cables to a certain extent. This method may not give you the friction/pull you need to do the the job.
See pic===>http://www.101projects.com/BMW/Proje...s/DSC03766.JPG
Harder: Make the adjustments at the adjuster under the mini-drum aka rear rotors. See instructions====> https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...Adjustment.htm

Thanks....valuable info.

So I'm trying to understand. In order to make the adjustment at the adjuster, then do I need to remove the brake caliper and the rotor?

Also, my wheels are pin drive (i.e. no lug nut holes). How do I access the adjuster?

Before you start at the wheel back off the nuts on the emer handle cables. Save the handle adjustment for fine tuning.
You can access the adjuster thru one of the stud holes. (without removing anything else)To remove the stud its easiest to install two 12mmx1.5m nuts. Then turn the inner nut ccw to remove the stud. The studs remove easier when the the stud is heated. The Red Loctite will liquify anywhere from 270-450F.
IF you pull the caliper and hub adapter + rotor its much easier to see what you are doing. A flat tip screw driver will flip the teeth on the adjuster. If you have an Endoscope its easier to see if you're flipping in in the right direction. If no scope, it will become easier (wrong direction) and finally bottom out or harder (correct direction). Keep spinning the opposite wheel until you hear the shoes dragging, then back it off a couple of clicks.
Clean the removed stud base thread with a wire brush or wheel to remove any loctite. Apply new Red loctite to the base threads only and install the stud. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37701
Repeat on opposite brake.
Final adjustments made on the emer handle nuts.

The Newer cars with an integral pin drive/hub use a shallow BDR made Pin drive bolt which can be difficult to remove if you slip with the Allen socket. I'd heat the hub and ensure you're on the bolt square before applying any leverage. Def no impact tools.

Sorry if I over explained this. Some folks go right to the hammer mode vs finesse.

As I mentioned earlier, I have pin drive. So what I am hearing is that the pin drive bolt can be removed with an allen socket?

Yes, If you have the newer style hub it uses the peg drive bolts like this.
https://www.iconicparts.com/peg-drive-bolts.html

Older cars use Pin drive nuts and studs.
https://vintagewheelsus.com/images/P1010029.JPG

I tried removing the pin drive bolt with no success. If I can't use an impact wrench, then what's the secret? And why can't I use an impact wrench?

Is the hub rotating not allowing you to apply enough loosening torq? If so a long flat tip screwdriver slid in the rotor vent slots and placed against the floor will prevent that.
Or is it the length of the breaker bar you have?
Soaking the bolt heads w/penetrating oil can help as well.

You can use an impact gun if you really want to. Be aware though if you slip or are not on the head squarely it can spin and chew up the bolt head hex and then you may have to cut/grind the head off.

I still have guns left over from my Auto dealership and Heavy equipment days but hardly ever use them.

Impact guns are outlawed in aviation due to the stress they induce to bolts.
So after 40+ years in Av maintenance I steer clear of them unless I absolutely have to use one.

PS. They really F-up the finish on lugnuts as well, lol

Finally got back around to this project. Was able to remove the pin drive bolt and access the adjusting sprocket. Took quite a few turns of the sprocket to get the brake shoes to seat close enough to the drum. E brake works great now.

Don't understand the need for Locktite on the threads of the pin drive bolts. Even if they do loosen, they're not going anywhere because of the wheel rim.