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https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...temno=260-1333 Can you you clarify what you installed? If you did install a BDR supplied slave (aka Mazda B2200), this unit should work. Dimensions are listed to compare to your footprint. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...AaAjChEALw_wcB |
As I mentioned earlier, changing the pedal geometry can also help IF that is possible on your car. To decrease pedal pressure (and increase pedal throw) you'd want the foot pad to be farther from the pivot point than the rod to the master cylinder. On some cars that can be done by moving the pivot point, the foot pad or the rod connection point. If moving the pivot point or rod connection point, care must be used to keep the rod going straight into the master cylinder.
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Wilwood 260-2636 5/8" Master Cylinder Girling |
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Wilwood 260-2636 5/8" Master Cylinder Girling |
You need to consider how much pedal swing room you have available. Basically lesser pedal pressure (smaller master cylinder) means longer pedal swing to disengage the clutch. Greater pedal pressure (larger master cylinder) means shorter pedal swing to disengage the clutch. A 3/4” master in my ERA uses just about all the pedal swing available from disengaged to fully engaged. I used a 7/8” MC for awhile which gave me shorter/quicker clutch action but the pedal pressure was higher than I liked.
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https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3502 It's probably best to replace your existing master cylinder with a smaller one of the same style/manufacturer if possible. |
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