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jim;
My SA stroker ran hot initially also. It ended when I did a good burping with nose "uphilll" and fixed the distributor they provided. you need about 36 deg total and AT LEAST 15 initial. The carb will not function properly with 9 deg initial with any type of cam in it. Now mine runs a little cool and I only use the fan when idling in garage or are in stop and go traffic grover |
Stop driving slow sissy boy!
Ed |
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Yo Sissy boy,
Where are you at this weekend? I'm recriuting help to breathe life into BD #223. I dont know @#$% about tuning carbs and could use some wisdom. Ed |
I thought you were working on the car the weekend of the 1st. I'll be at Roebling that weekend. You know, the whole driver not the car deal. Practice, practice. practice.
You better warm the credit card and go horsepower shopping. |
jim;
not enough initial timing and slow coming in. Should be all in by 2 to 2.5K rpms. Not enough initial lead causes many issues, not enough time to complete combustion before exh value opens, result burning eyes(raw unburned gas) at idle, you richen to attempt to fix idle, gets worse. Extra unburned gas results in a lot of burning going on in exhaust ports and pipes which results in additional head BTU having to be dealt with. Go to foursecond.com.. They have excellent tuitoral on this under tech section. Bottom line get ignition sorted "first" before even thinking about carb. I wasted a yr chasing that rabbit. grover |
Thanks Niles, that explains alot. You can tell my stainless pipes are getting pretty hot by the color already. My idle has also been hard to set.
Have you got a better link to that site? Did you replace the distrubutor or just put different weights in it? |
The problem has been fixed. I replaced the stock fans with 10" fans from Spal.
The part number is 2057. They pull 1070 cfm each. Installation is pretty straight forward. You will need to remove the shroud from the car. Remove the stock fans. Line up the new fans and drill new holes. I used 5/16"x1" stainless bolts with lock nuts to attach the new fans. You can swap the plastic part of the plug onto the new fan and they will plug right in. The metal pins will slide out of the Spal plug and into the BDR plug. |
Jim,
I told you to purchase a Spal fan way back on page one of this post or like Ed said drive faster to push more air through the radiator. Dan:LOL: |
Good to hear.
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I think the only thing to do is to sell the car. I'll give you $25K for it sight unseen.
Skip |
I know this is a real old post but...I just installed two Spal 2057's in place of the stock BDR Puller Fans. Does anyone know if there is an issue with the stock BDR wiring/relays/fuses being able to handle 10amps per fan. I am guessing that there could be the possibility of 25 amps running off of this circuit at times.
Thanks, Mark |
Mark,
I've installed the dual SPALs with no noticeable issues on the electrical side. |
Thanks Jay,
I am going to put an ampmeter on the line. I will let you know what the actual current draws are. Both for the initial start up current draw and normal load. |
I have had many models in our shop---besides wiring/ground issues the prevalent negative of all systems has been underdrive pulleys that won't move the water so the fans can cool it---seems everyone wants a 699hp powerplant and wants to save 2 hp on the waterpump drag to break the 700hp mark
Jerry |
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What cfm are the fans that come w/ the car. I have car # 136. And did the 2057's make a big difference, at what price, and where to get? Are they a direct change over or need modification? Brian
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I have used two Audi fans in my car for years.They are two speed fans originally designed to kick in the low speed when the A/C kicks in.They can be wired one speed to a thermo switch and one to an manual switch.They blow like a hurricane.They are mounted so that they are pulling,IE;behind the radiator.
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2. Yes from over heating in traffic to not overheating. 3.$99 each 4. The Fan Man 5. Drilling new mounting holes and changing the plug are the only modifications required. |
Ok, before I had the Spals, the car's fans would turn on and stay on. In heavy traffic the car would heat up to the 100C+ range. Now with the new Spals, the fans turn on and then turn off shortly after. The car is cooling much better now. I should note that these fans appear to be quieter also.
Ampmeter on one of the fans shows start up is 9.8 and continues is about 9.0 amp draw. I am nolonger worried about getting stuck in traffic on a really hot day! |
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