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BDR fan manufacturer?
Does anyone have any info on the fans the BDR is using? Manufacturer, part number or anything?
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Jim,
I am not sure but I think the whole radiator and fan set up is from a BMW 3 series. Jay B |
My mechanicien says that #139's cooling looks like 3 Series BMW, also.
UT |
Thanks. I was hoping to get some specs on the air volume these fans can pull. I'm still looking for a solution to my overheating problem and spal makes a 10" fan the will pull 1050 cfm. Most of the other 10" fans look to be around 650 cfm.
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Jim,
Have we totally ruled out air in the cooling system for you yet? The BDR fans are pretty impressive at pulling the heat off. Forgive me if I'm forgetting all the details of your overheating situation... BTW who built your 408? |
Also, run a 160 degree thermostat. Though some guys down if FL have had better luck with no thermostat and just a restrictor plate from Moroso.
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I feel the problem could most likely be cured with correct tuning of the engine that SA built. I'm am going to see if I can find someone that can tune it here locally. I put some more timing in it and that helped but it will still run hot at speeds under 30mph. This tells me that more powerful fans may cure this issue. While this is most likely a bandaid for the tuning, it's something I can do myself. Everytime I pay for something instead of doing it myself I loose a little more faith.
I think the overheat issue needs to be the first thing on the list that gets addresed. |
Jim,
When I had my 351 in my car I never had overheating problems. Since installing the 408 last week, I noticed it running hotter. I got stuck at a bridge opening the other day, air temp temp about 92F. degrees. My engine temp rose to about 100c then I guess the fans cut in and it slowly went down to 90c. And stayed there for the rest of the stop. A few minutes later I was crusing at 60mph and noticed the temp went up to 95c. I am running a "restrictor" instead of a thermostat. My timing is set at 30degrees of advance. My plugs look like I may be running a bit rich, but then again I haven't been able to pull a plug after a steady speed cruse. I have to slow down to 15 mph to get home to pull the plug, so that may make the plugs show "richer" than they should be. Your problem has to be with the engine not the radiator. |
Are the fans turning on soon enough? Have you run it with the fans manually on for the duration of the driving.
We had a similar one recently... turns out we had a 195 thermostat in there and a bad fan switch. Went to 160 and a new switch and it runs cooler than ever. But yeah, your tune is probably making it worse. |
THe fans are coming on soon enought. I've had 160 t-stat, no t-stat and the restrictor plate. Engine RPM has no effect. I cannot go below 25 mph for more then 10 minutes without the temp going well over 100c. I've verified with a different temp gauge.
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Jim,
When I had my 351 in my car I never had overheating problems. Since installing the 408 last week, I noticed it running hotter. I got stuck at a bridge opening the other day, air temp temp about 92F. degrees. My engine temp rose to about 100c then I guess the fans cut in and it slowly went down to 90c. And stayed there for the rest of the stop. A few minutes later I was crusing at 60mph and noticed the temp went up to 95c. I am running a "restrictor" instead of a thermostat. My timing is set at 30degrees of advance. My plugs look like I may be running a bit rich, but then again I haven't been able to pull a plug after a steady speed cruse. I have to slow down to 15 mph to get home to pull the plug, so that may make the plugs show "richer" than they should be. Your problem has to be with the engine not the radiator. |
While we are talking about overheating, does anyone know the radiator cap presure needed on the Bmw system.
I was leaking some coolant today and noticed my cap did not have a rubber gasket. I stoped at "Autozone and picked one off the rack that looked like it would fit. It was a 16 or 17 psi cap. The cap fit, now I got to know if the presure is correct. There was one on the rack at 7psi but I opted for the higher. Any ideas? |
Jim,
My thoughts are that the temp issue could be caused by a lean condition. a rich engine will have less HP but the cooling effect of the gas is the trade-off. A lean engine maes more power but will run hotter. Could it be that at lower speeds ( minimal throttle) your F/A ratio is less that at higher RPM's? Try running at a slow speed but high RPM and see what effect that has. Jay, the cap pressure is up to you. Water under pressure boils at a higher temperature. At atmospheric pressure water boils at 100 deg C. At 11 PSI, water will boil at 121 deg C. At 15 PSI, water boils at 125 deg. C.... You can run as much pressure as your system can handle. The benefit of a higher pressure is that water must get hotter to boil, The downside is the stress on your hoses and gasets with a higher pressure. Ed |
Engine RPM has no affect....Still.:3DSMILE: ;)
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Jim,
I forgot to ask. When you run at Gainesville do you over heat during your run? |
Quote:
I ran it there twice and it didn't over heat. |
Gatorac,
It sounds like you have tried just about everything. But, you might want to start over, drain/flush the whole system, put a 160 thermostat in, a proper water/antifreeze mix and run it. This may solve your problem. Something might be restricting the flow of coolant and flushing it out might help? I would have suggested checking your gauge, but apparently you have already done so. LIke Cashburn, I also suspect some trapped air in the system. Let it run without the cap on until hot and add coolant if the level drops. BTW, is there any coolant in the "puke tank"? |
Jim,
What is your oil temp while all this is going on? Have you talked to Bill P. about it? (SA). What if any are his recommendations? Are you losing water (ie, bad head gasket over-pressuring the system and puking water out? What about a larger radiator (ie 3 core)? |
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