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-   -   Springs missing to hold manifold to pipes (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/backdraft-racing/73513-springs-missing-hold-manifold-pipes.html)

paulmcconnon 10-09-2006 07:05 AM

Springs missing to hold manifold to pipes
 
I have no springs on 1 side to hold the manifold and pipe together. I have it wired for the moment. By the way it's a 351w in a backdraft #182. Where can I get replacements.
Paul

madmaxx 10-09-2006 09:01 AM

I have heard you can get them a dirt bike shops, or probably your local hardware store. Use a coat hanger to pull them on, or you will bank up your knuckles!!

Secret Squirrel 10-09-2006 11:01 AM

Paul,

Yamaha part # 90507-20052 at your local motorcycle shop.

You will have to cut the first coil of the spring and bend up to form the new hook at the end. This should give you the right length and enough tension to hold. I made a tool to pull the springs in place by using a heavy wire coat hanger with a hook bent on one end and the other end inserted into a drilled 1/2" wooden dowel and wrapped around it to form the T-handle. Works great! No more banged knuckles.

Excaliber 10-09-2006 11:22 AM

This seems to be chronic BDR problem. I saw the same thing on one here in Hawaii, heard reports of others. Something the factory should address.

madmaxx 10-09-2006 11:48 AM

i beleive they have gone back to a flange connection, this will solve alot of issues.

Badger 10-09-2006 12:17 PM

Flange connections have no slip fit for expansion and contraction of the headers to pipes. Springs are the best solution, but ONLY if the tolerances between the header pipes and collectors are close enough to prevent exhaust gases from escaping. Badger

uncltodd 10-15-2006 08:23 PM

Badger, I gave up a year ago with the slip-fits on #139.

Swaging the header connections is a good workaround, I've heard, but I don't have access to that kind of machining skills here. A sharp L-curve, under internal pressure and a lot of heat, is gonna flex. I would rather it flex at the header/sidepipe joint than... somewhere expensive.

I even tried packing steel wool into the joint and using 2 big radiator clamps dogged down TIGHT to muffle the joint blow-by, it worked well for about 30 minutes, but flexing and vibration wiped my kludge out.

I just live with the noise from under the hood, I'm probably the only one that notices it in my little part of the woods.

UT

Rick Parker 10-15-2006 10:41 PM

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...re_190__2_.jpg[/IMG]

Although this is not a BDR application it is an example of one particular way of using the springs and tabs for retaining some tension on the slip joints, there has to be some minor movement available or the pipes will fracture. They are made of stainless and were purchased at a KTM motorcycle shop. In use 3 years without any issues.

BTW: Safety wire pliers work very well for installing the springs, since you can lock the handles and keep tension on the spring when attempting to install it.

Nor Cal Al 10-16-2006 11:14 AM

I went to the largest shop in the area that handled dirt bikes. There are several sizes available (in MM). Take a measurement of the distance between the loops and get a spring that is shorter. No cutting, no bending. They also have a tool for putting the springs on with. Just like the picture above. #128 is just 3 years old and no problems...except the leakage of course.

AL

davidlee 10-16-2006 01:25 PM

Paul,
I have some extra springs if you can't find any. I bought too many when I did my build. Yes I got mine at a motorcycle shop.

David


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