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Engine Removal and Installation Questions
Hey Guys,
My 1989 351W P.I. motor is making strange sounds, and I am giving it the heave ho in lieu of spending any time/money trying to repair it. So, the Miserly Magoo will be forking over some cash for a nice stroker from either Performance Engineering (thx Jay) or Keith Craft. I am looking forward to the lifting of the cloud of shame that is attached to having less than 300 HP and a junkyard mill. No longer will I have to explain to disappointed little boys that 250HP is actually a lot in terms of power to weight ratio. I have now disconnected everything, borrowed an engine lift, and am preparing to do the deed. Am I right to assume that once I remove the tranny cross member (I have the removable kind), and unbolt the tranny mounts and the engine mounts, and lash up the drive shaft so it doesn't fall, that I just move the engine/tranny unit forward a few inches and the tail shaft just pulls away from the drive shaft? And then I tilt the tranny down and lift her up and out? Thanks All, Sean |
Another question:
I have read the forums on the "engine + tranny" vs "engine-only" approaches. Can the typical 1 ton (when boom fully extended) lifts handle engine+tranny, or is it pushing it? Also, do you position the lift in front of the car or on the side? Thanks |
That lift should be fine from the side if you use a good leveler to get a lot of angle. Pull the wheel on that side and put on jackstand for extra working room. You can check our photo galleries on our site to see engines going in... just start from the end and work back.
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Either drain the transmission first, or find an old junkyard yoke to slide into the rear of it and secure it in place with wire or something. The trans fluid will come pouring out the back of that transmission as soon as you tilt the assembly down toward the rear, and there's probably no worse spill than a standard transmission spill. The oil is thick and gooey, and stinks like rotten eggs.
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Thanks for the tips, gentlemen. I'll post some pics and some postmortem after I do the dirty deed.
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MrMagoo, did you get the motor out yet?
If not, you shoudl be able to remove the drive shaft bolts and slide the yoke out until the shaft rests along side the rear end. Remove the tranny mounts, engine mount bolts, take the starter off, drain the tranny, drain the oil, drain the clutch, tie off the fuel lines, drian the coolant, and remove the headers. Don't forget to remove the shifter ring, boot and shift handle. You may have to remove the crank pulley to get more room. When we install the motors, I have a longer boom that I can go directly in front of the car. If not, you will have to remover the drivers wheel and go at an angle. Try not to scratch the nice shiny stainless behind the motor with the shifter when you raise it up. Slowly and easy is the best way. Good luck, James |
Thanks for that info. Haven't got the motor out yet, but have everything disconnected. That's a good idea to remove the pulleys, that'll give a couple of extra inches where it is needed.
= Sean = |
The "junkyard dog" has been pulled. Everything went pretty well. It was hard to get the driveshaft out... There is not a lot of space in and around the differential to slide it back. Taking off the pulleys was a must to get the room to move the motor forward. Also, had to take off the shifter (not just the handle), I did that with the tail end of the tranny pointed down as far as it would go, and reached up from the bottom to unbolt it.
I have a dual sump Canton pan with a "T" in the rear. It was a little tight clearing the engine mounts. Thanks to everyone for advice and counsel. |
James;
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Man! That's got to be one jacked up clutch!:D Steve |
An aside, go for the KeithCraft powertrain.
UT |
I just pulled my motor on my BDR, if it was just a motor issue why did you pull the tranny? but gladi t all worked out for you, and yes the driveshaft area is not roomie at all
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