Whats it cost - Another solution
 

I'm curious what the cost of all this is. I found an advertisement in the Dupont Registrey that might be helpfull.

The only cost is your registration and tax on the car.

-Joe

Joe, How do they figure out the tax and registration? Is it based on the cost of the engine or all the major parts or what?

It's based on how much the car cost to build.

-Joe

Well I just got back from the DMV and I'm legal:3DSMILE:
Got my plates and tags now I have only a little problem.

Last night I was out for a drive and was about to show a Porsche 996 where he was on the food chain, well went for the 1-2 shift and broke the shifter handle off:JEKYLHYDE

Mark at Snake Bite says that's a first, lucky me.
I should have a new one on Friday.

-Joe

Hey, maybe a few less wheaties in the a.m.:D

Congratulations on getting through the maze. My first appointment is tomorrow at 9:15.%/ When I made the appointment they told me they had done a SPCNS in the Petaluma DMV office - I'll find out when I go in.

Update on California registration: Had my appointment this am with the DMV here in Petaluma. I was in and out in 45 minutes with a temporary operating permit and lighter by a few thousand dollars. I have all the paperwork for a sequence number, however, the computer hookup with Sacto was down, so they will call me later today or tomorrow with the sequence number. All in all, it didn't seem too bad. One tip: you must have the original of the MSO (I only brought a photocopy so I'll need to go back & show them).

Further update: I'm done!!! Spent this afternoon with the BAR location in Santa Rosa, then a repair shop in Santa Rosa to get the brake & headlight certificate (this took about an hour) and then to DMV to stand in line there for an hour to turn in my 4 1/2 pounds (it seemed) of paperwork and pick up my plates. Total elapsed time 29 days. Actual amount of time spent: 9 hours (1 hour at DMV initially, 3 hours off work to travel to and from CHP and deal with them, 5 hours off work to travel to BAR, brake place & stand in line at DMV).

There's got to be a way for the state to make this more efficient. The CHP assigned me my chassis number for a VIN, the BAR people told me I failed the test and then stuck an exemption certificate on my firewall - seems like both of these could have been handled (or not handled) by DMV if they would just coordinate what they're doing. Anyway, rant over. I'm just happy to be done.:D

CA Registration - THANKS
 

:D

I just bought a 1999 Cobra in Wichita, KS. It is being shipped right now. I have been out of the custom car world for many years and am just now getting back into it. I am also new to this forum. I really appreciate all the information all of you have posted on getting a Cobra registered in CA. I am dreading the process. I also have a really stupid question.What is the BAR?
Thanks again.

Re Ca Registration
 

Big John,

The BAR is beuro of automotive repair and is supposed to over see the automotive repair shops and such in Calif. I think they are also in charge of the smog shops. We have had three or four guys up here go through the process this year and they really never had much problem once the DMV figured out what SB-100 was. They did have to have the sniffer test done but then the referee put their smog exempt tag on the car so I think that is more to fill in paper work than anything as some of them have dual carbs and other wild things that don't faintly resemble the motors that were manufactured those years. All of these people used the year of the car body to go by. I think one guy told me his was registered as a 2002 1964 Cobra replica but can't remember for sure. Anyway there is no smog stuff at all to contend with and if you are doing a Cobra then go with the body year it is replicating.

Ron61

You guys sure make a strong case for buying a "turn key".

Ha ha, but what fun would that be?

Ernie

I'm shopping for either a used or new Superformance. Tho I've read the thread to this point, I'm still not clear on two things:

1) I was told by SPF that some of their cars that are titled as 1965 Ford are under DMV scrutiny, and if I purchase one the '65 Ford title may not carry over.

2) Will buying a new SPF from them circumvent the tedious process described earlier?

Thanks

I just finished licensing my used spf. It is titled as a 1965. There were no questions asked. Buying used or new makes no difference. It's all pretty straight forward.

Mention was made specifically with cars originally titled throught Alabama - anyone know anything about that?

-------------Thank you Allan

I believe buying used vs. new does make a difference.

If you had bought that SPF new, I believe there would have been a few additional hoops you would have to jump through. Used, all you had to do is have it transferred to your name.
Right?

TURK

Turk is correct, buy an already registered car. The easiest way to go. Stay away from Alabama tittles. A newly built car can go under SB100 which is easy. A car coming in is determined by
the year of the engine block and subject to smog that was in effect when that engine was built.
This is a big deal, be careful, search past treads, avoid a fraud charge, dmv has investigators out
on this matter. be careful and safe.

This should probably be the start of another thread, but here goes...

Back in 97 I sold my beloved 72 GT5 Pantera and have been driving un-reasonable facsimiles ever since. I pondered getting another Pantera, but realized that I’d only be chasing what I already built. Friend and Pantera and Shelby Club member Mike Drew owns a Pantera, a 66 Shelby Mustang clone and a Contemporary 427 S/O. I always loved that little beast, especially once I got to drive it. A BIG BLOCK for me, please!

So, the wife and I checked out Kassabian’s Showroom in Dublin and I discovered Superformance. Sitting there was SPF #507 – with a 460 built by Craig Hill. After rushing home, making some quick phone calls and surfing some websites, I’m certain that SPF is for me. The attention to detail is phenomenal. I spent about $100k on my Pantera before bidding it farewell, so I’ve developed (or at least paid for) the ability to recognize near perfection. SPF sent me their packet and video tape which I tore into like a child with a birthday gift. I actually forgot the name of the man I spoke to at Dynamic MotorSports in Reno. After telling him of #507 and its $55K price tag, he told me that I could get the same car, with all the newer updates, for 3k less (and to watch out for Alabama cars titled as 1965 Fords cause California DMV was scrutinizing them).

I’ve since attended the 2002 MiniNats and met some great folks with SPFs. They were extremely friendly and willing to tell me the ups and downs of owning these cars. So now I want one even MORE.

I did learn that buying/ordering a new one could have me waiting as much as twelve months. I failed to confirm if the purchase price included shipping from S. Africa. I also failed to ask about registration woes.

Obviously it’d be easier and faster for me to buy used, but would it be cheaper in the long run? Considering that Kassabian tagged a little profit onto the sale price of #507, what would a reasonable private-party asking price be for a like car with less than 3k miles on it?

So many questions.

Thanks

Steve

dtmaso,
oops, I didn't read the begining of the thread. There are other alternatives you can take. If you want some ideas I can give you more via email.

Steve
Check my reply to your queston in the Bay Area forum.

Lew

Steve,
There is a good website for collector cars. Last time I looked they had 19 cobras for sale. I found mine thru this site. It will give you a good idea of the price ranges ($395K for an original to about $26K for one with a chevy engine) The web site is
www.collectorcartraderonline.com. Go to search and type in your search criteria. Good Luck.
BigJohn in Benicia