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SPF parking brake upgrade
Just finished installing upgraded parking brake in "older" SPF. What a difference! Not that bad of a job to do yourself. Took a couple of days, no special tools, no special skills ( that would have prevented me from doing it ) and it works great.(Got the brake from my wife for Christmas, good wife!) Very well thought out upgrade!:D
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2 days? How many hours are we talking about?
Bob |
Probably 8 hrs or so. I am sure it could be done in less.
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Did you perform the upgrade with the trans tunnel in the car, or did have to remove it? Also, do you have any clearance problems with the rotor? I have heard for some that they have to turn down the rotor in a lathe and remove .25-.5" to provide the necessary clearance. Your sequence number isn't too far after mine, so I'm hoping the answers to my questions are what I want to hear! Thanks.
-Dean #747 |
Trans tunnel did not have to be removed. I had no problems with rotor clearance. I installed the rotor first and then drove it several times to see if I would have any problems. I removed rear tires, passenger seat and drive shaft guard loop for access. The outside radius of the new brake pads match perfectly with the outside radius of the rotor. So if you had to take .25-.50 off of the rotor you would have significantly less rotor/pad contact unless you could adjust the mounting of the brake assembly. I can’t see how that could be done. The brake works very well and would probably still work fine with reduced rotor/pad contact. Mark
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Red, et al:
If you're going to install the new brake and you think you MIGHT EVER do anything else on the car for which you may want to get at what's underneath the tunnel, I suggest you consider removing the tunnel now. This has been covered in at least one other thread. Removing the seats is easy. Removing the tunnel the first time is a real PIA and cleaning off all the black goo is a dirty, miserable job but having a readily removable tunnel the next time is, to me anyway, worth the trouble. If there are any clearance problems (I didn't have any with my installation, either) they would be much easier to spot and correct from the top. Also, it's easier to align the rod from the handle to the caliper if you can see the whole setup. Just my $.02. Lowell |
I just got done with the up grade and I will have to say the instructions were very good. I didn't remove the seats, tunnel or rear tires and was able to do the job in about 4 hrs. The only PIA was holding the nut on the forward mounts mine is an older car so the nuts were not welded to the frame. Had to take a off set 3/4 box end and cut it in half. 3/4 will fit a 17mm. My kit did not come with the nylok nuts even tho they say to use them instead of the free spin they sent. Over all I would have to say it is a very good upgrade.
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