I did a leakdown test last nite. I can't tell a damn thing about the valve guides because the valves are seated.

Compression is 160psi on average and the leakdown (done while engine was cold)suggests the the leakage is not bad. According to the info I have, up to 40% is "normal". most cylinders are running about 25%.

But why do I have the oil deposits on the top of the intake valves?

Hi,
The reason you have oil on the top of the intake valves and inside your intake manifold- take your carb off and look into the manifold- lots of oil eh?
Is because the oil is forced up through the open intake valve during cam overlap, then sucked back down during the next intake stroke.
You need to hone and re ring the cylinders before you wreck the bearings, check the rod bearings, they will be the 1st to wear.
Perry.:cool:

I have a electronic fuel injection.I have a throttle body and injector for each cylinder.
The intake runners are bone dry.
But I see what you're saying Perry. When I was rotating the crank during the leakdown test, there was very little time between when the exhaust valve closed and the intake valve opened.

Dyno Tuning
 

I retired from the dyno tuning scene in June 04. Many reasons, none of them bad...just time to focus on my career and enjoy some free building my blown cobra.

As far as dyno-tuning, here's my advice.

If the carb is easily jetted at the dyno, and assuming you're proficient at the task...or the dyno operator voulenteers and is proficient at the task, that's a fine option. A few hours or dyno time (2-4), you can dial it in.

If the carb is not easily jetted on the dyno, pull it off and send it to a CARB DYNO service. Essentially, they put your carburetor on a test engine at their facility and tune it. Some use V8 engines, some use air pumps and ignitors. The Carb Shoppe in the LA area does excellent work. You'll have the carb back in a week or so, and it'll be right. Bolt it on the engine, the proceed to the dyno for a quick pull to see the air/fuel ratio under load. I've done this numerous times with singles, duals, and even blow-through supercharged combinations and it is a fantastic effortless option.

Or, for the DIY enthusiast that wants the biggest bang for the buck, buy yourself a UEGO wideband system like the Innovate.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com

For $400 you'll enjoy seeing real-time Air/Fuel accurately and will have the ability to tune AFR on the street/strip without a dyno. And lastly, you'll be able to watch that Air/Fuel ratio and know precisely when fueling problems raise their ugly head...before damage is done.

Or you can go psycho like me and convert it all to EFI.

Byron

Mike, the percent leakage you are seeing is WAY high. A good engine will run 3-5 percent.
This is assuming the test is done properly, cylinder at TDC on compression and warm. Even cold that is high.

Stacks
 

Sorry Mike, didn't realize you had 8 stacks. Actually there is more reversion on that intake and the cam needs to be matched for it with less duration and I think more lobe center.
Still same problem ,oil will be pushed up the stack and sucked back down on the next intake stroke, no puddling on the floor of the intake obviously.
A ring job is relitively minor, you don't want to drive it enough to damage the bearings with too much fuel going past the rings into the oil.
Good Luck,
Perry.:cool:

An luck sorting this out???

Take it out and replace it with a correct FE 427.

Must be a time warp here...this post is 6 years old....

Sorry, couldn't resist. I was doing a search on aluminum intake manifold cleaning.

Damn Jeff, where you been hidding?

Old thread but great info and diagnosis opinions.

Hey Rick, thanks for asking. Had some issues, all fixed. Car should be running in the next few days.

Dammit, Jeff, now that you brought this up again, I want to know what the cause was. Anyone know?

Here's the story I posted on another forum about it a couple years ago:

My engine never seemed to run right from the beginning 4000 miles ago.
The SDS system that I got with the stack intake manifold was pre-programmed for my motor specs. When I first started the motor, the instructions said not to turn it off for the 1st 15-20 minutes during the initial start up. So I followed the instructions. Unfortunatley the fuel settings were way too high but I was afraid to change them right away.
The engine always burned oil when ever I decellerated. I kept calling the people who built it down in L.A. They told me to keep driving it. I called him a couple months later and he told me that it's most likely sucking in oil thru the gasket between the bottom of the intake manifold and the heads. I reseated it with new gasket twice. I could tell by looking at the gasket that there wasn't a problem but did it anyway. It also looked like it was drawing oil thru the PCV so I changed to straight breathers and it helped but didn't fix it. There was also a little white smoke comming out whenever I stood on the gas.

The SDS system was like playing a video game while I was driving. I constantly had to keep making adjustments everytime I drove it. It would never accellerate smoothly and there it seemed to stutter when ever I acclerated hard. I called around to see if I could get anyone to tune it on a dyno. Everyone said not to waste my time because it is very limited on what it can do.

I ended up going with the ACCEL GEN VII system.

After I installed the new system I took it to get it tuned. We set it up on the dyno and the guy started tuning the computer. Everytime he stepped on the gas it would stutter and smoke. "Man there's something weird with you motor" he said. He made more adjustments, " Your curves are way off, I can't believe I need to crank the mixtures up so high", he kept saying. Finally he was able to make a pull. "Man this thing smokes a lot!", he kept saying. When he hit 285 hp there was a bang and then his whole shop filled with smoke and we had to run out of the shop. It ended up blowing the head gasket.

I towed the car home and pulled the heads. There has a blown head gasket and the cylinder walls were really shiny with vertical lines up and down the cylinder walls. My fears about washing the cylnders was confirmed.

They guy that owns the dyno is a well respected engine builder in the south bay. He said to pull the enigine and he would go over it, rehone the cylinders, install new rings and redo the gaskets. So it Pulled the motor and took it down to him.

He called me 2 days later with the following problems:
-The compression is 13:1. Shouldn't even run on pump gas.
-The pistons were hitting the crank causing metal to chip and washed thru the bearings.
-The cam is way too radical for a fuel injected low rpm stroker motor.
-The dampner fell off the crankshaft when he took the bolt off. It wasn't even snug let alone pressed on.
-They ground a groove on the oil pump shaft to clear the girdle which weakend the shaft so it won't last long.

I talked to a few engine builders before I ordered my motor. Ford Performance Solutions was recommended to me by one of the venders on the forum. I called them up and asked for a 351W stroked to maybe a 392. "For a couple hundred bucks I can make you a 427" the sales guy said.
"Duh, OK" I said.
I told him it was mainly a street car that I might take to a track once in a while and that it doesn't have to pass smog and that it was fuel injected.
"I can give you a cam that gives you a lumpy sounding idle." he said.
"Duh, OK" I said not knowing what I was getting myself into. I assumed since they built a lot of engines that they knew what they were doing.

So my new motor guy sourced new pistons to lower the compression to 10:1. It took several attempts at the machine shop to get the proper clearance between the pistons and the crank. The block had to be re-line bored and the cylinders had to be bored. He put an appropriate cam in and a new dampner.

3 weeks later I get my motor back. It takes me 2 day to get it back in the car. I go to start it, it turns over 5 times, pops, hisses and won't turn over again. IT'S COMPLETELY JAMMED!!!

I start pulling things off one by one until I FIND A BROKEN VALVE!!!! At this point I'm ready to cry.

I call AAA and have the car towed to his shop. He said that if it was something he did, he would fix it for for free.

Anyways, after a month I call him and he's just putting it back together (he chipped a bone in his elbow when the socket on the head bolt broke and he hit his elbow on the frame of my car.) so he went on strike until he could move his arm again.

He found that there was uneven wear on the valves and they were binding in the guides. So I got to buy all new valves, guides and seals.

I now it runs great and is scary fast and doesn't blow any smoke. Now I got one motor for the price of 3! Oh, lucky me.

Ouch! Mike, I'm happy you finally got it taken care of.
Are you and Eleanor going to make Snakes this year??? I just signed up and Melinda is able to make it this year.