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Wiring Issue
So it appears that I have a gremlin of my own. Got the car running about a year ago and every month or so I start it up. Started just fine last month, but not so well today. I have power going to the ignition and power going from the ignition to the solenoid, but the solenoid isn't getting the power. I can manually activate the solenoid with a jumper to start the car, so I know it still works. Any idea of what could have happen in a month to the wire from the ignition to the soleniod? Gonna spend a long night in the garage figuring this out. Thanks.
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JCMORANT,
If you jump the solenoid you can still activate it, BUT that doesn't necessarily mean the solenoid is good. Change the solenoid and let us know. DV |
A lot of automobile wiring harnesses use Molex connectors. They arn't really the best of connectors. Check to see if your wire from the key-switch to the solenoid goes through one of these connectors.
If not, you may have to reterminate one end of the wire with a new terminal lug. To see if the solenoid end is the problem, try poking a pin through the wire insulation about an inch back from the terminal at the solenoid. Use your voltmeter between the pin and gound while someone holds the key in the crank position. |
With someone hold in key in start position - check for 12 volts @ small s terminal.
that should make solenoid operate Like said, change solenoid cheap enough... |
Hey, Just starting the car does not recharge the battery, it only drains it more. The alternater has to turn at a greater RPM than idle to charge, and it has to remain there to recharge the battery. You pull over 100 amps when you start your car, that is on the low side. You don't put that back in by reving it for 5 minutes in the garage. Before you pull the starter and change the sol, I would get the battery load tested and clean the terminals while it is out. If the car is going to sit, I would hook it up to a tricle charger, Battery Tender makes an excellent one.
When a battery sits, it can discharge across the top between the terminals, there is also the discharge from the memory devices in cars, radio settings, mem for seats and mirrors, computer, ect. It is very minor, but over a few months it can have an effect on a older battery. I know these things aren't on a COBRA, but it is good to know. Just throwing my 3 cents in. where the heck is sppell chick on this darn thing !!! |
Sorry, I read your problem too fast. I thought it started with a jump, not jumping the sol. Make sure there is a good connection from key, nuteral switch, to sol. I was also thinking ........chevy starter with sol on starter.....I'm going to bed.
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions, and of course now I feel like an idiot. Wasn't the solenoid, the connectors, or a dead battery. I have the battery on a charger to maintain a charge. I was reading through the build manual and came across the wiring of the automatic transmission, I have a manual transmission. But then I read the part about the neutral safety and a light went off in my head. I was pushing down the clutch when trying to start it but the car was still in gear. Not sure why I hooked that up on a manual transmission, but won't be for long. So she turns over no problem and all wiring is good to go.... for now. Thanks again for the help.
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J'
Not to worry! Thats a major "what's wrong" to some I've seen. Please leave the neutral safety switch in place! Or hook one up to your transmission that will only work in Neutral. That way you wont have to get into the car every time you want to start it. Trouble shooting: That's a good thing! DV PS... some day I will tell you guys why Cpt. Eddies car took four-FOUR! people to push it--in neutral! :mad: :o ! |
JC,
I think we have all been there done that a time or two. Atleast you figured it out and the problem was a simple one. John |
Those kinds of problems can drive you nuts. The good news on the simple
solutions like yours is that you haven't spent a wad of $ to fix. |
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