Exhaust Pipe gaskets
 

Has any one here used these gaskets on their exhaust? I was using the copper gasket RTV type of solution but for the 3rd time it has blown out. The only reason I didn't use these was because Pete from CR said I shouldn't.. Thoughts?

http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...%20Gaskets.jpg

OFM-
With those it is not a matter of IF, but When!
DV

Mike,
I use this,

http://www.mr-gasket.com/ProductDeta...minselection=4
I have a program for our laser to fab them. If you can get me the material I can have some made up for you. That one piece will make four gaskets.

Ah so you cut your own then. Any problems with them blowing out?

No problems yet

I second Remflex, never any problems with steel locking nuts

Exhaust gasket replacement option
 

OK, here was my problem and tha solution I tried.
When my pipes were bolted to the headers with just high temp rtv, both pipes kicked out on an angle. About a inch to inch and a half. I didn't like forcing them outward and placing tension on the headers. Anyways the RTV blew out after 1600 miles.
So,....I found a carbon fiber, laminated to a thin sheet of SS, gasket material at Summit. Made for uneven mating surfaces. Cut my own gasket shape , with snips, and applied with the high temp RTV.
I had a .030" gap on one pipe and .100" gap on the other.
The gasket material measures about .035" thick.
The RTV seemed to hold just fine on gaps up to @.030".
So I made partial gaskets. Which covered half of the face of the flange, to fill on the large gap side (happened to the the rear side of the flange).
ON the .100" gap side, I made a 1/3 and a 2/3 gasket and stacked them to provide a tapered gasket effect. Counting on the RTV to fill in the voids.
I did this last winter and it held just fine all this driving season (another 3000 miles).
Summit part # is PHP-68006, cost $8.95 and is described as "Gasket material, Exhaust, Carbon Composite, 10" by 10", .040 thick.
This stuff is flexible and compressible. Feels like heavy soft flocking on a thin metal substrate.
Hope that this might help someone else. It worked for me!

So something like these??

http://catalog.remflex.com/COLLECTOR...t_p/rf8023.htm

Well, basically. I cut the gasket material to fit the shape of the flange and the exhaust passages and mounting holes.
But, I had to accomodate a gap, between the header flange and the exhaust pipe flange which tapered on one side (of the car) from zero to .035" and on the other side from zero to .100" (on the other side of the car).
Hence, the need to cut the gasket into a half width gasket for the .030" gap side and into two gaskets (1/3 and a 2/3 width pieces)for the .100" side. These were stacked or sandwiched with RTV spread in between each layer to fill the gaps that the gaskets could not.
I don't think that you will find a stock gasket, pre cut to fit, which will accomodate a tapered gap. I supose that I could have had a tapered aluminum shim machined to fil and used two standard stock gaskets or RTV.

Suggestion: I would determine how much gap you have to fill.
Hang the side pipe loosely on the header with it just making contact on which ever edge mates up first. Then measure the gap with a feeler gauge.
That would tell you what you are trying "fill".
Hope that this might have clarified my previous post.

Or you could just take a 4"-6" grinder and very carefully resurface the mating faces until they are the desiered angle that you want. Then with gaskets or high temp RTV it should not blow out.

It can be done. Just grind and fit until it fits up the way you want. You just have to be carefull.

I have had the same gasket on my big block 427 for 14yrs and there still good. 1992 Classic:3DSMILE::3DSMILE:

Andy

Remflex #8023
 

The Remflex catalog lists the part #RF8023 for the "Factory Five" Cobra headers. Do these work for the Classic Roadsters design/dimensions? The 4 7/32" bolt hole spacing is just a little further apart than what my sidepipes measure, but as long as the exhaust pipe holes line up well, I can always narrow the hole spacing a little. Do they give a torque spec with them or does anyone know it?

wycobra, no they wont , I talked to remflex a while back (his name is remmington) and he said if i sent him a gasket he could make up a set ..min of 2 @ 100.00 not too bad for two sets . I believe the material is 060 thick . Anyhoo I did the grinding trick with a 4in grinder and a flapper wheel and everything is good now ...WD

Here is what I used, which is made for exactly what you are using it for. It is made of steel mesh and covered with a cardboard like material. Got it at my local NAPA dealer and it was only $13.00. Worth a try if you have a way to sketch a pattern onto it.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...499_0058761886
Used a pair of tin snips and a hole saw to cut it out.

If you try the grinder and paddle wheel route, start with a high number grit as these can take metal off quickly if you're not careful.

Remflex and be done with it!:D

I made gaskets out of some copper stock (.035-.040") I had. I used 2 per side and coated all surfaces with copper RTV. I also use self-locking nuts and made the rear mount floating so the pipes could expand and contract! So far so good!

I have a 383 SBC, I have made a deal for a 550+hp 383, AFR heads and solid roller cam! There's no way the current headers and pipes will support this motor! The flanges at the head and the collector are a joke, I would guess at the collector the ID is 1.25" or less!

I'm working on plans to make my own setup using 1.75 tube and 3" collector block hugger headers. The headers I'm looking at has the collector centered on the heads and pointing almost straight down. A 90* turn after the collector headed to the side and then a 90* headed to the rear, all in 3" Pipe. Then a long 3" ID Cherry Bomb muffler and turn-outs! Welded-up cleaned-up and coated I think it will look pretty good, sound and run great?

I used HI temp silicon so far ,4 years and no problem. Maybe it's because I had headers and side pipes ceramic coated which gave me very smooth surfaces on both headers and side pipes.