Running Fuel line for a fuel injected engine.
 

I have a stock fuel injected 5.0 engine.

What is a cost conscious yet safe way to run the lines from the fuel tank to the engine? Fuel pump will be inline and probably be mounted in front of the tank.

I was going to use brake lines with small sections of fuel injection hose but know I am not sure if that is the best approach. I also concerned about finding barbed fittings to connect the brake line to the fuel hose.

Can use hose (like GoodYear Insta-grip) and route it the entire way?

(BTW, I have found out that I am not the best brake line pipe bender. %/ )

3/8 or 7/16 aluminum fuel line. you can find it at Summit or Jegs and it is much easier to bend than steel. They make AN fittings that will handle the transition from tube to hose. You will want a good AN fitting given that you will be running fuel pressure of 40 ish

Greetings from Arizona
I just used the POLY-ARMOUR brake lines (3/8) to do my fuel lines on the Cobra I just bought, I'm using same in 5/16's to do transmission lines. Its easy to bend and you can reshape by hand. I clean it with brake clean and paint when done.....Jay

Aluminum not allowed in some states
 

Wisconsin_Snake, Snake some states will not allow aluminum lines on the roads. Vibration and road debrie are the main issues. Need to check with inspection stations in your state. IF you can run it, make sure you have a rubber clamp every 12-16". I also have mine in a clear plastic hose under the car. This protect both lines from the tank to the motor. I have 2 255 liter pumps in the tank for my FI system.
You need 2 lines, (1) 3/8" supply line running to front of car and one 5/16" line return. As far as the fuel pump, put one inside the tank if possible. Some pumps don't have good suction to pull the gas from the tank unless you have a sump in the back of the gas tank to mount the pump at. Bad thing is if you are hit the the rearend, Lines and pump are exposed.
The other problem is rubber fuel lines. The methonal is eating the rubber. We have 10% going to 15%. Plastic or steel lines are in all cars nd trucks now. I have had to replace rubber lines in my others cars with resistant to methonal.
Not 100% sure but the new hose is a grey outter color.
What ever you do, make sure the lines are up and out of the way, protected from heat, and clamped to the frame.
If you can double flair all connections, no pressure couplers. They crack and cruck the steel or aluminum lines and can cause leaks. Good luck Rick L.

You have several options as to type of fuel line with cost, your ability to install and performance being main factors. You must also consider location- routing and safety in your choice.

You want to run on the inner side of main frame tube, not the bottom so a jack could crush or road debris will damage it. Think about protection from a failed u-joint or drive shaft failure and exhaust heat when routing. Avoid multiple connections as they are each another leak potential. Large diameter is better than too small and sharp or numerous bends decrease flow potential also a concern for return line to keep the back-pressure low.

Any choice will need connections from clamps to compression, flare or inverted flare could be used. I like annealed 3/8' steel tube in 20 foot rolls for main feed and return. It requires a flare to connect many fittings or adapters but it is not that tough with the correct quality tool and a little patience. Hose in rubber to teflon lined to stainless steel braided fuel hose kits are another option with varied connection types. Hard or ridged steel brake lines get very tough to bend when diameter needed is used, good luck there.
Aluminum is easy to bend but I think is weak against corrosion. Moisture and alky in gas in aluminum lines just do not work for me over the years. I know there are many who have had good results but I am not one of them.