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Need help with electrical problem
I have a circa 1994 CR. Electric fan quit working the other day. I hot wired it and it runs. Now my fuel pump quit working. The fuse diagram doesn't seem right. Fan-fuel pump fuse is good. Is there another fuse panel layout? Also when I got it out this year and shut it off, it killed my battery. Is anyone aware of Chevette steering column issues? I need help. I've always wanted a Cobra, and bought this after I was diagnosed with MDS. I'm into my third year, but don't know how much time I've got.
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Still need help
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a CR I cobra? My fuse block has apparently shorted out.
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The fuses may be showing "GOOD" but if there are relays to the fan and pump (which there should be) the relays may be faulty, causing the dead circuit at the fan & pump. neither of these two high current items should be run directly through the fuse panel.
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I would start looking for a loose ground wire. There should not be any reason for both to quit and not blow the fuse
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Thanks for the advice. I had a guy check out the fuse block, and he found a portion that had melted. The fuses and relays are all good. 3 circuits in the fuse block are not getting 12v. I think I'm going to have to install a new fuse block - like Painless 10101. Anyone have a recommendation?
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Quote:
Wasn't good scared the crap out of me. Got the cobra over to the side and, Thank God I had a fire extinguisher in the car. Not sure about the other stuff I have a manual fuel pump. Sounds like you have a short some ware that is draining your battery. Later. Gerry. |
Good morning Duffer,
I think others have pretty much cover the areas I would have said. So I will just add a couple of things. Unless you built it yourself a wiring diagram is at best a guide. Second, grounds are so SO important on a plastic car! |
Problem solved!
I had my car taken to a local speed shop where they replaced the alternator(drains the battery when the diodes are bad!), rebuilt the fuse block, replaced the fan control, and added a relay(it never had a relay!) Everything is back to normal, although the fan runs about 100% faster now that it is getting voltage AND current. Everything is grounded very well, as it was before. The original builder, a guy from the Memphis area, was a pro. Anyone ever heard of RDH Autocars? The guy's last name was Hillis.
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Duffer - since you're in Florida, and the fan will be running a *lot* more than it would have in North Dakota, I'd recommend wiring power to the fan with a heavy gauge wire, and using the stock CR wire (10 gauge, if memory serves) to a relay that switches power on and off. I live in Texas, had the melted fuse box too, and ultimately solved it that way.
Good luck - JLW PS - you've got my prayers dealing with your MDS - I just got a donor stem cell transplant to treat (and hopefully banish) mine. We got very lucky with the donor pool. As soon as the doctors clear me, I'm planning to drive my CR as much as I possibly can! |
Glad to hear you got it solved Duffer! You are lucky yours had a good builder, I don't have anything good to say about those who built mine! I'm going to be re-doing some wiring and my dash/gauges this winter! I also have a separate fuse box and relay for the fan and electric water pump. I also installed a dash switch to manually control of the fan! This summer with 100+ temps it never went past 180*.
What's this? http://www.chinaquick-1.com/FORD.jpg |
Lightingrod,
No comment about the picture. I have made comments before about things and got a ration of crap for voicing my opinion. Do you think that the electric water pump helps keep it cooler than a standard one? What amp alternator do you have to run all of that and keep up? |
Ha ha,
On the water pump no I don't think it helps. In fact I was afraid it may have hurt but it seems up to the task! I think the alternator is 100 amp, It was one I had on hand. I have only taken short trips, light traffic, mostly day time and there has not been a problem. The fan is the big pull but even on the hottest days (100+) it almost never came on! |
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