Question for don Scott or DV about Shocks
 

DV or Don ( or anyone for that matter)

As you both know my car is a Classic Roadsters ( on the cover of KIT CAR 11-2001) . I have a question about the rear suspension. I am very pleased with the way the car handles and rides. However when I have a full tank of fuel and or a passenger, the tires tend to rub when I hit bumps in the road. The tires do not rub when I am in the car by myself with 1/2 tank of fuel or less. The tires do not rub on the inside by the frame or the behind the seat storage area, although they are close they do not rub. They rub the underneath side if the fender in the center of the fender at the very top. As if the car is over loaded with wieght. I will list more info about what I have on the car now, then ask my question.

1988 8.8 factory width axel.
1995 rear disk breaks, this narrowed the axle by 1/2" over all
PS engineering wheels he does the ofsets for our cars
BFG 295 tires
Classic Roadsters springs specs
Classic Roadsters shocks specs, Gabrial cross referance #'ed gas
Spring adjusters are all the way down
The car appears to set right.
The car squats under accelleration BAD.

My question: Can I put adjustable coil over shocks in the place of the standard shocks, then adjust them to suit my comfort and fix the problem. Do I need to remove the Springs all together if I do put on adjustable coil overs, or should I leave them as they are in addition to the coil overs. Will that stop the squatting. And what shock and number would you recommend.

Thanks
4RE KLR
Steve Parks

4RE, It sounds like the springs are weak under load. There are 2 options you can use. The 1st would be to change the stock springs to a Blue coil. DV sells these. The 2nd option would be a coil over. I use the ProShocks coil over setup on the rear. This would give you the adjustability. The costs for the blue coils is around $125. The coil overs are about $375. You remove the old coils and run the coilovers alone. If you are interested I can tell you how to mount them with the proper spacers and bolts.
Don

Steve, Mine used to squat real bad under acceleration. I moved the upper rear control arms so that they are in the LOWER holes on the frame. When they are attached to the upper holes of the frame the torque on the axel when under acceleration actually pulls the rear end upward toward the body. Check your rear upper control arms to see if they are in-fact in the wrong holes. When they are in the lower holes, you will have the correct rear suspension geomerty. This makes a BIG difference.

Ed

Steve,

My Blue Coils that we use will work fantastic with the Pro Shock combo. However, for a serious car as yours is, I would go with Don's set up. You will absolutely love it! The whole change over wont take you 45 minutes and that's with a brew or two at your side.

I know Don and I have worked years trying to improve the suspension and handeling on the cars. Mine is a huge improvement over the "book", but as stated, I think Don's is even better!

DV

Don:
I am interested in the process. Is it a bolt on install or welding to the frame required. I could do either. I am intereseted in the coil overs for the adjustability. Also do I need to change the upper control arms to adjustable ones? Are these shocks something to get from you are maybe I could get them locally?

Cobra Ed:
After checking the car on the lift I found that the upper control arms are in the lower holes now.

4RE KLR
Steve Parks

4RE, I mount them in the existing shock holes on the frame and rearend. I have 4 aluminum spacers made for clearance and added strength to the mount. I was concerned about using the existing shock mount for the coilovers so I had an engineer look at the stock setup and how to utilize the existing holes. He said the spacer and a grade 8 bolt will work well since the car is so light in the rear. I'm sure you can order the shocks from any Pro dealer. The cost will probably be close to mine with the mounts and bolts included ($375 +shipping). You don't need to change the upper arms.
Don