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Thoughts on using stainless steel brake line to connect the MC to the dist valve
I do not have the body on the frame yet, but I remember reading that at the time to mount the body to the frame you'd have to disconnect the master cylinder and move it towards the engine in order to clear the wheel well.
I am assuming that the booster can stay. The idea of bending the hard lines from the MC to the brake distribution block mounted on the fire wall cannot be that good for the lines/connection points. Additionally knowing me, I will be taking the body on/off a number of times. %/ So I was thinking is there a issue of using braided stainless steel brake lines from the MC to the distribution block? It would allow easy moving of the thing when mounting the body. When adding fluid, you could unmount it, swing it over, add fluid remount it. So are there issues with using braided stainless steel brake line like this? |
You just need to use the correct, proper fittings for the type threads of the master and be aware that AN fittings are 37 degree flare and auto/industrial stuff is 45--they don't mix--
the 37 will be a single flare while the automotive type are double flare |
Keep in mind that every inch of flex line in the system makes the brakes a little spongier. There is no safety issue, but you want to keep flex line to an absolute minimum.
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Also, regardless of which way you go, think about putting some heat shield tubing over the lines or hoses in the engine compartment. Keeps the brake / clutch fluids from getting way hot.
my 2 c |
There is NO PROBLEM using stainless steel Braided brake lines- none.
Other than cost. Any supplier of the lines can sell you what ever fittings you need. The stainless brake brake lines do not over stretch/expand. BUT, if ease of use and the extra cost don't send you running, think about using the new lifetime "very flexible" soft brake lines. I use the new lines now and do NOT even use a bender! ALL bends are made by hand, even the tight 90"s ! I loosen the booster at least three times during a build, never had a problem yet!" In the cliche, don't sweat the small stuff! Moving the booster while building is small stuff! A NEW CLASSIC ROADSTERS! If only 25 years younger ! Heard nothing but good from/about our northern brothers.Hope they keep the name, and good luck to ya-Hey.......... DV |
I agree with Ed.
And, if you can draw what you need, Inline tube does a nice job making lines. Look them up on the web. They are not inexpensive, but the stuff has the quality you expect. Hope this helps. Tru |
Since I have hard lines on now, I'll stick with them and see how bending them goes.
Otherwise the for 2 lines, 4 fittings I would be at ~$50. The new CopperNic (hard) brakelines are pretty nice. Too bad I can not flare a brake line to save my life. (I have tried a number of times with disappointing results.) |
I have made a lot of brake lines. The nic-cop line is nice to bend but it turns greenish over time. It doesn't support its self very well the coated black line looks very clean when bent nicely. Buy a good flare tool and u will b surprised how easy it is.
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Hint. Guessing you don't have use a small 4" air/electric grinder?
Even a 7" grinder with a very low grit wheel? Very lightly TAPER the end as in a "pencil sharpener" design. Very little but 360 degrees, then use a DOUBLE flaring tool (regardless of the type of line.). Couple practice flares and you will look a pro! GREEN? I've had some done over 5 yrs. Old and never seen green? Maybe longer than 5 yrs., maybe road conditions....Salt! ?? |
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Like you, I found the trick was to lightly taper / bevel the end of the tubing, though I used a hand held file to do the trick. |
Okay - update.
Inline tube is no longer ( and apparently for some time ) accepting drawings. They will make flex lines ( stainless steel ) with ends. Just got this news today. :D |
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