Club Cobra

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)
-   Classic Roadsters II (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/classic-roadsters-ii/)
-   -   Air Shocks? (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/classic-roadsters-ii/136250-air-shocks.html)

Conchyjodyoos 04-10-2016 07:06 AM

Air Shocks?
 
Hello, I have a CR II and sometimes my rear wheels hit the fenders when I hit large dips/rough roads. I've read here about going to coilovers but I don't plan on racing and hope this might be an easier, cheaper option. Monroe makes an adjustable air shock system (MA803) for the old VW bugs that appears to be plug-n-play with little or no modifications. I need just a little more support over the existing whimpy shocks. Has anyone gone this route or can off some advise? Thx

DanEC 04-10-2016 09:07 AM

The problem with air shocks is that your primary control is by height/air pressure. More air pressure means more height. If your car actually sits low and needs to come up in the rear some - an air shock might work. But if you like the stance or just need a very slight increase or need to stiffen the spring/shock action a little - you probably will not find air shocks to be the solution.

moore_rb 04-10-2016 01:41 PM

I had the same problem- My rear end would bottom out over large bumps, and I had my rear spring adjusters cranked all the way down.

I replaced my rear springs with MOOG CC631's (52 bucks from Summitracing)

With the new springs, my adjusters are only turned down 2 inches to achieve the same ride height as before (I still have 3 more inches of adjustment available); and the rear of the car never bottoms out anymore.

Ride quality was also unaffected- My butt felt no difference, except that I no longer have to prepare my spine for major compression every time I go over a raised railroad track... :LOL:

Conchyjodyoos 04-11-2016 07:33 AM

Thanks guys, looks like new springs is the way to go, appreciate the part #��

Double Venom 04-11-2016 10:24 AM

Sheesh,First and foremost adjust your rear springs if you haven't. Very few people have to change springs to fix your said problem.
PS RACING is not the only reason for "Coil Overs! ADJUSTABLE ride height and Comfort level is way ahead of going to Coil Overs just for racing.
DV

Conchyjodyoos 04-11-2016 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double Venom (Post 1387310)
Sheesh,First and foremost adjust your rear springs if you haven't. Very few people have to change springs to fix your said problem.
PS RACING is not the only reason for "Coil Overs! ADJUSTABLE ride height and Comfort level is way ahead of going to Coil Overs just for racing.
DV

Yes, the car is up on my lift now and I can get to it this afternoon, will check first and hopefully a cheap fix. For you folks that have gone coil over does the car ride any softer? My wife's boobs would appreciate it :)

YerDugliness 04-11-2016 11:26 AM

My replica uses coil-overs...standard Mustang II front end and custom parallel 4-bar suspension on the rear. It rides every bit as nicely as my Honda Accord.

Cheers!!

Doug

Conchyjodyoos 04-17-2016 06:39 PM

Update: Once I got my clutch situation under control I went back to my rear ride height. The good news is I gave the drivers side two turns and it looks perfect, the bad news is the passenger side is seized. Tried everything including an impact with no luck, once I concluded it was toast I grabbed the treads with a huge pipe wrench, no dice. So what are my options? Does the addition of coil overs allow the delete the springs? Is it a pita to replace the screw adjustment assembly? Thx

Slo-poke 04-27-2016 08:35 PM

pipe wrench ?! on threads? From the top, lube with a good penetrating oil, allow to soak for a week. Heat is helpful but the proximity to the body cancels that. You may remove shocks, drop the axle as far as possible, with out damaging brake line,! and then remove the coil spring, exposing the bottom of the adjustment thread. Yes it is a pita to replace the screw assembly. If you let it soak and get the adjustment screw/bolt to back out the top, then run a tap through to clean up the threads then replace with Stainless bolt. Worse comes to worst you will have to drill the bolt out from the bottom and with a easy out (the easy out in this case would be for a left hand thread!) remove the bolt. It will require a big bit and hopefully a magnetic base drill with very careful alignment . Remember a 1/2 drill with a bit approaching 1 inch can be a wrist breaker !! OR -- perhaps a couple of spring spacers would give you the clearance you desire.

Conchyjodyoos 05-01-2016 09:08 AM

I had a cam bearing pop out during my cam swap so the suspension is on the back burner while I get that sorted. I'll post once I can get back on it.


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:33 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: