Gas pedal linkage problem..Monkey garage leftovers
 

Greetings again CR owners,

Sooo its been awhile since my last post since I have been knee deep in my 1972 427 Big Block Blazer Pre-runner build, but in order to take my mind off that for a bit I decided to focus on one of the problems the monkey garage folks, sounds like G-Fox, located in Erie Co that hacked apart my Cobra. I disputed final charges with visa and they sided with me. Tiny win in this collasal cluster....fill in the blank.

Anyway one of the many issues that need to be fixed is the Lokar throttle linkage that they installed. After reviewing the pics please try and not lose conciousnous.

So my dilema includes the following that need clarification so your help is desperately needed since having the throttle get stuck at WOT. Using a 560 holley avenger.

*Correct reccomened length for cable? See pic
*For kicks bought this from finishline to see if I could fab up a replacement. Looks like there is ample room to fab a bracket to make it work. See pic.
*Is there a better faster way? I am 6'2" and working upside down, contorted in the foot box trying to keep my reading glasses on is a beotch.

Thank you for any help since after a couple hours searching and reading on forum I still am somewhat lost.

I wish that I had better pictures left from my FE cobra, but I had to delete them to make room on the computer. I am including two photos, you can see the linkage to the carb somewhat in both photos. I do not like the idea of looping the throttle cable around like was done, or you are proposing. in the photos that I have you can see a bar going across in front of the firewall that is hooked to the throttle cable on one side and the throttle linkage to the carb on the other. I think that you want to try to have some form of solid linkage, or if not possible at least a much shorter cable.

Another thing that I noticed was the lack of a second throttle return spring. You always want two springs trying to move the throttle linkage back to idle.

there are much more experienced engine builders on the forum who will certainly have better pictures and advice.

Good luck.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=11672&thumb=1 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=11674&thumb=1

Yes second spring, didn't think about that. As for mechanical linkage I will look into that.

How about pedals? What setup do you have?
Oh and out of pure curiosity what FE engine are you running?

Thanks a lot!

Redhawk,
Lets start by getting specific with the problems. Here's what I think I see:

1. The throttle cable was apparently too short so someone made a connector for an additional length of cable (out of a lead fishing weight?)
2. The throttle cable housing takes a very long and circuitous route to get from the carburetor to the footbox
3. The original gas pedal was either not working, removed but not replaced, or unsightly and deserving of replacement. Which is it?

Lol, I knew the fishing weight was going to get noticed. The throttle cable is one continuos lokar replacement. The weight was temporarily put their by me because the original pedal on the left was cut by the Hack shop as a quick fix(crazy) but they more importantly failed to consider installing some type of pedal stop when jamming on the throttle.

Because of their shoody work I put it there so although I was only going to drive the car gingerly while repairing all their damage (basically in and out of garage or to a flat bed) I installed the weight knowing I would have to deal with a complete overhaul at a later date.

The pedal was removed by me yesterday becuase it was destroyed by the Hack shop, not in a usable position and lastly yes it was god awful ugly. I have two other matching pedals for brake and clutch.

OK, I don't claim any expertise, so consider this just one more person's opinions. The basic problem is the gas pedal. If the original that was damaged felt right when it was in place, then you need to consider its geometry when replacing it. In other words, you need to consider the following:

• The top arm of the pedal needs to align with where the cable enters the footbox.
• The pedal pad needs to be where it is comfortable for your foot.
• The pivot point needs to be where the ratio of the length of the two arms (above and below the pivot point) is the same on the new pedal as for the old. For example if the upper arm was the same length as the lower arm on the old pedal, they should be the same lengths on the new pedal to achieve the same pedal feel.
• Satisfying all the above will tell you how long the pedal should be and where the pivot point should be mounted.

The photos make it appear that the replacement pedal you have is shorter than the original, meaning the pedal pad will be higher off the floor. If that is a problem, perhaps you can fabricate a longer arm for the pedal. ... I'm guessing that the shop that provided the pedal assembly intended to attach the pivot block to the footbox somehow. If there are no obstructions on either side of the footbox, and if the fiberglass is strong enough there, perhaps it can still be used. If not, it wouldn't be too hard to fabricate a larger metal plate (to spread the force on the fiberglass over a larger area) with a bracket for the pivot pin welded to it at the right place (up/down, in/out, left right).

One other idea came to me. If your footbox is strong enough and has room above the pedal area, you might be able to hang a top mounted pedal from someone like Tilton. If that is possible, you could reroute the throttle cable to exit from the top of the footbox and significantly reduce the length of the cable assembly.

I had an ERA cobra with a 428 Cobra Jet in it, sold it last year. I do not have any photos of the pedal. As Tommy suggests, if you can go with a floor mounted pedal, that might help. If not, you might be able to route the cable upwards and come out the top of the footbox, my MGB race car has the throttle cable going straight up from the pedal and then to the throttle linkage. That makes for a shorter cable. With a long throttle cable that is wound around the engine compartment you increase the risk of the cable binding at some point.

Jim

One more thought came to me. If you are planning to do track events and you have a manual transmission, you'll want to pay attention to where the gas pedal is relative to the brake pedal too. The spacing and fore/aft positions need to be right if you are to use the heel/toe braking technique.

I put in a new Lokar cable. It comes with new beautiful universal end connections. Jegs makes a very nice carb linkage base kit that bolts to the base of the carb. Looks great and installs very easy.

I don't have pictures of mine but I use this setup with one major exception. I flipped this around 180° front to back. So my Lokar cable only has to do a gradual 180, not a 360° circle. The switch makes it so my cable pulls forward on the bottom of the throttle bracket, not backwards on the top.

Much less friction, less effort to push the pedal.

Interesting. I will look at that.

So I got it figured out and fixed for now. With the suggestions from all members above (Thank You!) and some ingenuity I modified pedal bought from Finishline, installed covers for clutch and brake, bought a ryanstar throttle plate and walaa works better than beforw. Still need to cut gas pedal about an inch an a half but wanted to start longer than shorter so I could cut as needed. Cant heal toe yet.
Next is to craft some type of mechanical linkage to ditch the cable or find a way to shorten cable.
Thanks everyone.

Looks much better!

Good to see. And thanks for taking time to come back and wrap up this loose thread.

RH, I just saw this thread so sorry I'm late but maybe this'll help you in the future. I'm about your size and whenever I work under the dash I pull the seat/seats out and lay on my back (with my readers on too :D) with my butt up against the back of the interior and my feet draped up on the trunk and quarter panel beside the roll bar. Quite comfy actually.

Add to Lovehamr...I remove the steering wheel. Makes getting to the footbox a lot easier. I have tried the upside down approach to other items under the dash. Nap time, haha!

John