Flywheel and Clutch
 

Guys,

I have a well built out 351W that is very strong and dynos at 445HP and 465 ft/lbs torque.

I'm in the middle of upgrading the existing OEM style clutch that has about 26K on it.

My questions is:

I've read quite a bit about steel, forged steel and aluminum flywheels(contain a steel wear ring), are any of you guys running an aluminum flywheel?

Most of what I've read and talked with clutch manufacturers about leads me to believe that aluminum is the way to go. Benefits such as lighter, faster engine responsiveness due to decreased rotational inertia with a lighter flywheel seem to outweigh the launch inertia and initial torque developed by a steel flywheel. All info leads me to believe that only slight driving changes need to be made using a lighter aluminum flywheel (slightly higher launch rpms) but the responsiveness benefits and easier shift engagements seem to outweigh the launch rpm issues.

Clutch manufacturers I've spoken with tell me that Aluminum flywheel are the best choice for our lightweight, high horsepower and torque cars for best drivability and occasional performance use. They also mention that there are many misconceptions that steel is better due to torque build-up for launch however most of the high end performance cars sold by OEMs today utilize aluminum flywheels for increased engine responsiveness and drivability. Also that steel was the common choice for years due to low cost for vehicle production.

I'm leaning toward a Centerforce 2 centrifugal weighted performance clutch and pressure plate mated to a forged aluminum flywheel with replaceable steel mating ring from Centerforce.

Just wanted to gain any insight from any of you, what clutch flywheel combo are you using, for what engine, do you like it or not, and any other issues.

I also am still using the standard mechanical clutch cable and throwout bearing on a Ford Motorsports Racing T-5 trans.

Your insights would be appreciated.

a lot of guys are using the Mcleod clutch kit. works very well

X2 on the McLeod clutch.

I prefer a billet steel flywheel.

You can have two flywheels, one aluminium, one steel, of the same weight, and have different characteristics because of the weight distribution throughout the flywheel.

The are many good steel flywheels now.

Think about why aluminium rods have a short useable life.

Co-efficient of thermal expansion for aluminium alloy (6061) is twice that of steel (1020) ....would that be a problem on a flywheel? At least it means that the steel ring gear shouldn't come off :)

Cheers,
Glen

I've ran both steel and aluminum flywheels in a Cobra. The aluminum flywheel will have you slipping the clutch a bit more to get going, especially if you take off on hills.

Absolutely NO on the Centerforce. Of all the emails I get from guys wanting to replace their clutches, the majority of them have issues with Centerforce.

The pressure plates that they use are standard parts store brands...i.e. Sachs, Luk, etc. They add their counterweight system to them to gain clamping force, but the issue is that the weights aren't predictable. Sometimes they engage, sometimes they don't. Sometimes it's at high rpm, sometimes Cobra owners find themselves fighting a clutch that's trying to engage at idle. Lots of guys end up removing the weights and then you end back up with a parts store pressure plate with less clamping force.

Do yourself a big favor and use either a RAM or McLeod. I've been selling both for 10 years and I could count the number of issues on 3-4 fingers.

What you're able to fit will depend on the bellhousing you're using. If it's a factory bell or a Quicktime, you're going to end up with a 157T flywheel with a 10.5" diaphragm pressure plate.

In your situation, I would use a RAM steel flywheel and a RAM 88794HDX clutch kit.