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what changes to a 5.0L needed?
Building a never assembled CRII
I'm installing a 5.0L, T5, 8.8 rear out of a 91 fox body Mustang. I want to tear off the factory injection, electronics, intake, etc, and put a new intake and holly sniper system and dress the engine with finned cobra valve covers and oval cobra air cleaner to make it look a bit more period correct, and have a more tuneable system. At this point, I don't have the budget or real need to go crazy with a stroker kit, crazy cam, heads, etc. Going with a manual rack & pinion, so I'll obviously loose the power steering pump. I have a rad that came with all my parts presumably from CRII. My question is, what other parts and accessories and modification will I need or be thinking about when I put the motor together? I'm reading a bit about motor mounts possibly being an issue due to availability, and, clearance. Speaking about clearance, do I need to get a low rise intake? What kind of pully's, water pump, alternator, brackets, fan, oil pan (road race for clearance?) etc should I be considering. Excited the border is finally opening. Joe really messed up my plans to have my parts all here to start my build in October. |
I have a set of mounts for small block that go on frame, is that what you need?
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If you want reliability, I would stay away from Holley Sniper.
Join up the Holley forum like I did, and you will see how much of the daily threads form up on there. Holley EFI is at the bottom of my list. I would rather my HEAVILY modified Holley XP 850 before their EFI. You will spend more hours tuning than driving. Stalling is just one complaint. Gary |
If you have new style mounts can you post some photos with dimensions? I have the old style and want to upgrade.
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The new style mounts use the Napa #602-1639 Mustang 84-95. This is for front left and is the one Ford ended up with for all 92-95 Mustangs. Drops about 3/4”. Trans mount is the Mustang II #602-1334 manual trans
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Depending with what fuel metering system you go with, you may have to swap out the distributor. One of the Pertronix Dist with the brass drive gear works well with a stock 5.0 motor. Remember to use a brass drive gear or you will chew up the gears for the dist/cam drive and have metal floating thru the motor until it fails!:(
Also, if you do the motor mount upgrade to the newer style, use convertible mounts. The are about 1/2" lower for more hood clearance. If you can spring for the money, look at some of the Weber style EFI systems. They perform better, nice increase in power, sound great (nothing like the sound of individual stacks sucking air) and look great! http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=17885 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=19832 The other option is to keep your stock Ford EFI computer and swap out the upper and lower manifolds for a "bread box" style intake system and larger (70mm) throttle body, Painless wiring harness and mass airflow meter. The reliability will be much higher and it will clean up the appearance considerably. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=19831 I went with a Extrude Honed lower and a Kenne Bell 1.2 Supercharger. Had to modify the hood to clear it all, but it was the way I wanted to go since I already had the S/C. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=18911 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=18908 Thom |
Thom,
I read all about your supercharger build and gained a lot of good information. Thanks for sharing. There might have been mixed reviews about the hood, I'm sure the purists may not have loved it, but wow! what great work and it looks awesome. I considered doing a simple power add on, and haven't completely ruled it out. I love the idea of the 8 stack efi. Looks so awesome. The sniper kit seems to be about $2k for what sounds like everything I'd need, but the reviews seem to be mixed, some love it, others, not so much. I'm waiting to hear back from a few 8 stack suppliers (jiminglese and borla) on some info and pricing. any suggestions on other sources? |
5 oh
Hi,
Change the front timing cover to an old style so you can run a standard rotation water pump when you get rid of p steering pump. The singe best mod is a set of aluminum heads, give you 50+ HP and lose 50 lbs on engine. I run edelbrock carbs as they do not leak like holleys. Good Luck, Perry:cool: |
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Thom |
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I can always revert back to a lower profile intake system (and less HP) and go to a smooth (scoopless) hood if I tire of the S/C. Always remember what Ol' Shel did with a scoop to cover a dual Paxton S/C config to is personal 427 Cobra! http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...ictureid=19835 Thom |
my Holley is 25 years old (at least) and it does not leak!
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The curse of being trained as an engineer! I am deluded to thinking that if the engineering makes sense, the emotional side of responses are irrelevant! Still remember a boss of mine calling me into his office after a senior staff meeting to tell me that even though I was technically correct, I missed the point of not getting my fellow managers signed up to my way of thinking because they were not engineers like I. I just stared at him for awhile before I understood most people make decisions on emotions vs logic. Guess I was a bit slow on the uptake! Was a problem most of my career! Thom |
Thom,
form follows function |
All these comments have been really helpful. Thanks everyone.
I went to take a look at the parts that came with my car, and the rad is a Johnson Radiator Company model 3686 E-91 with a drivers upper hose and a pass lower. I think I'll either go with these pully's and belts from CVF, I ran them on my mopar and was really happy.: https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-289-3...pump-alt-only/ or https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-289-3...ternator-only/ I want to put an expansion tank on, like to go a FE style if possible, but that would require a rad that used a passenger side upper, no? Then I'd need a drivers side lower? I found a pretty good how to modify a FE tank off FFCARS here: https://www.ffcars.com/threads/how-t...l-tank.285407/ I've been going through the CRII forum and the smallblock ones to see what guys have done. Is there any reason why it seems most of the CRII builds do drivers side upper and pass lower rads and water pumps? Is there some expansion tanks that would allow me to use the rad I have that someone may have come across? |
The best money spent is for aluminum heads. Edelbrock AFR etc. I have Holley 650 for 10 years and no leaks on a 347. Be careful with fuel injection choices. lots of choices and tuning problems . KISS is best
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The reason for the upper driver side rad hose it to get away from the steering shaft on the rack and pinion for ease of clearance
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