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-   -   narrowing transmission tunnel (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/classic-roadsters-ii/146723-narrowing-transmission-tunnel.html)

Roylerumble 03-13-2023 08:52 PM
narrowing transmission tunnel
 
4 Attachment(s)
I decided to narrow the transmission tunnel, and widen the foot well and pedal box on my cobra. I sat in a CRII and its really tight, and I'm a bit taller. Giong with Tilton pedals for the 302/T5. Nearly done the drivers side. Everything seems to fit so far. The passenger wont be able to be moved in as much as the starter sticks out a bit further. Planning on boxing the floor and lowering the pan for the seats. A bit of glass work mid hump and I should be able to buy myself 2 1/2"

markantioch 03-13-2023 11:23 PM
I gave up heel-and-toe shifting for the comfort of foot space by moving the brake pedal closer to me and creating more room between the clutch and gas pedal. That solved my tight pedal issue.

DanEC 03-14-2023 06:03 AM
I understand the search for more foot box room. But I think I would would at least add some 1/4” steel plate gussets to the frame rail kick over to better reinforce it. That kick over creates a collapsible frame feature in the event of a front hit, but not necessarily where you want one. Just my 2 cents which inflation has essentially made worthless.

Roylerumble 03-14-2023 08:14 AM
Definitely agree with you. will be filling the outer side of the frame rail as well as adding a gusset from the outer side of the frame rail to the front of the pedal box. Adding a gusset to the inner as well to add support to the joint and motor mount.

Roylerumble 03-14-2023 08:15 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC (Post 1515547)
I understand the search for more foot box room. But I think I would would at least add some 1/4” steel plate gussets to the frame rail kick over to better reinforce it. That kick over creates a collapsible frame feature in the event of a front hit, but not necessarily where you want one. Just my 2 cents which inflation has essentially made worthless.
your two cents is worth it and appreciated, but due to inflation it needs to be around 2 nickels at least.

sunman 03-14-2023 12:58 PM
Check your fiberglass cowl firewall to motor clearance I think that’s the passenger motor mount bracket and your motor is to far back.
If it’s marked LT and the other is RT it’s a Classic Roadsters mistake they did a lot that way.
The rubber mounts are installed opposite of Ford use on purpose by CR also.
The big block frames have equal toe room on both sides of cowl about 12”.
I will double check on the brackets tho, mine are marked, but I remember I used the mount welded in the middle as drivers side.
For what that’s worth.

Roylerumble 03-14-2023 04:16 PM
Sunman, she's all good, the mounts are in the factory location, using a pair of factory Mustang II mounts, I didn't alter the location at all. Had the motor/trans in to establish my clearances, pulled it and did the mods, tacked everything in place, put the motor back in, all was good, none of my measurements changed, so we finished the welds. A few more hours of work welding and glass work and she will be done, for now....

Roylerumble 03-14-2023 04:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunman (Post 1515561)
Check your fiberglass cowl firewall to motor clearance I think that’s the passenger motor mount bracket and your motor is to far back.
If it’s marked LT and the other is RT it’s a Classic Roadsters mistake they did a lot that way.
The rubber mounts are installed opposite of Ford use on purpose by CR also.
The big block frames have equal toe room on both sides of cowl about 12”.
I will double check on the brackets tho, mine are marked, but I remember I used the mount welded in the middle as drivers side.
For what that’s worth.
Sunman. I actually used the manual to determine which fitment went on which side. Do you mean the manual was wrong? I need to look at the fitments and mounts, but as I recall, you can't screw that up because the one mount needs a hole for a metal stud to protrude through. I sincerely hope that didn't mess anything up, other than a fitment at the least that can easily be fixed, but even if they are wrong, and it moves the motor forward, the clearances shouldn't change.

So to clarify, is the manual wrong on which fitment goes on which side, and is there a marking on the mounts that denotes left and right, LT and RT, and they need to be swapped so the left is on the right and right on left?

Sycraft 03-14-2023 07:28 PM
2 Attachment(s)
Passenger side you can see starter, driver side see the filter.

sunman 03-14-2023 07:42 PM
1 Attachment(s)
That drivers bracket looks right in those pictures. Both mounts have studs that fit into bracket holes.

If marked the bracket marked RT goes on the drivers side and the LT on the passenger.
Mount the cowl as far forward as you can and you can check the clearance.
I think I have about an inch motor to firewall.

The brackets came miss marked from CR.
There are old posts about this, a lot of them were miss marked.
The rubber mounts install opposite from how Ford installed them.

twobjshelbys 03-14-2023 08:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunman (Post 1515574)
The bracket marked RT goes on the drivers side and the LT on the passenger side.
.
Are you in Britian or Australia? Else driver side in US is left ( sitting in the car).

I never realized the ambiguity until I was writing this

sunman 03-14-2023 08:31 PM
1 Attachment(s)
The drivers side bracket, left side of car is incorrectly marked RT from Classic Roadsters and the right side is incorrectly marked LT. See marking in photos.

Nothing ambiguous about that. Posts about the subject are ubiquitous.

Sycraft you might have 2 drivers side brackets. That happened a lot just to keep parts off of the backorder list. It could just be the photo tho.
The passenger bracket should look like bracket on left below.

It’s 3” from center of rear frame bolt hole to the back of the U piece on starter side.
Oil filter, drivers side has 2” from center of the rear frame hole to U piece.

The brackets U piece is 3” wide OD on driver’s side and 3 3/16” on passenger side and the rubber mounts are different too, about 3 1/8” ID on the drivers, 3 1/4” passenger side.


The rubber has moulded numbers to identify it driver or passenger.
Install on opposite sides per CR.

You can cut and move the U piece if it’s a drivers bracket and add washers to make up extra width of rubber passenger motor mount. Lower it 3/4” while your at it on both sides. In photo below passenger bracket is on left side. Long arm of rubber mount goes forward.


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