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Upper Control Arm Brackets
Hi guys!
Just got a set of Bethania's upper control arm brackets. Tom wasn't as helpful as I'd hoped regarding installation. He told me the only absolute is that the longer ear goes to the front. Beyond that, "which way works out best for ya".:JEKYLHYDE Which way do you guys usually mount these things? Does the cross shaft go inboard or outboard of the brackets? Which set of holes do you use and about how many shims does it take to get the alignment right? By the way, I'm using Heidt's tubular control arms Any other tips/insights wil be appreciated! Thanks! Dwain |
C'mon guys!
55 views and nobody has an idea? Would like to do this right the first time. Thanks in advance! Dwain |
TC,
I just saw this. I'm kinda' confused. You are using Tommy's upper control arm and a Heidts lower? You are using Tommy's top control arm shaft only and the rest Heidts. Or, you are using just the Thick long "L" bracket with both Heidts upper and lower control arms? I'll try and help, just not real sure how to read your question. DV |
Thanks for the response, DV. Sorry to be so vague.
I have Heidt's upper and lower control arms and Tommy's uper control arm mounting brackets (the ones that change the mounting from horizontal to vertical and allow for the use of shims for alignment) Tommy said I can use the brackets any way they work out best as long as the taller ear was at the front. That leaves me with the choice of whether the brackets are attached with the vertical side towards the inside or outside and also which pair of holes (upper or lower) to use to mount the control arm. Hope this helps clarify my question. Thanks! Dwain |
O-K....
Let's try this again. I KNOW some of you have used this part. Which way did you install it? Here's hoping for some input... Thanks! Dwain |
TC,
I mounted mine with the feet facing in, using the lower set of holes, that's the way I've seen them mounted on a couple of other CR's. I have pic's, but they are too large to upload. hope this helps ya. mrbones |
Thanks, mrbones!
Did you tack weld them into place along with using the bolts? Approximately what total thickness of shims did you end up with? If it's not too much trouble, could you e-mail the pics? Thanks again! Dwain dgreer1950@usa.com |
Mrbones
Hi. I would be interested in some pics also, as I plan on getting some of these brackets in the near future. Thanks Paul cobra427@mnsi.net |
Similar setup. Heidts "D" uppers, RCC lowers with coil overs, Tommies upper brackets.
My alignment guy about kissed me when I installed them, and alignment hasn't budged. Ears go in toward engine, use lower holes. Used stock nuts to hold bracket to frame. Used longer G8 bolts to hold arm to bracket. All 4 corners will be different and will be set by alignment shop. Use '78 MII settings, and 6 deg camber. |
Wait a minute!!!! 6 deg camber???? Thats a TON of camber. Does the top of the tire lean toward the motor or away from the motor?
I was going to go with .60 deg positive camber. Positive I THINK is the top of the tire leaning IN toward the motor. For auto cross you would want a LOT of lean toward motor (positive camber?). But I drive on the street to and didn't want the additional tire wear on the edge of the tire with that much camber in play. Ernie |
Ernie,
Positive camber is when the top of the tire is leaning away from the chasis. Attached is a reference site. http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm John |
Jack21,
I assume you had to grind quite a bit off the rear nuts/bolts (bracket to frame) to make them fit? Any concerns about the strength of that attachment? Dwain |
Oops...Caster, not camber! The axle tilts backwards to return to center position easier.
The brackets were mounted with the ears toward the motor. The arms were mounted towards the tire. Brackets were secured toward the inside of the slot with OEM serated nuts, not the ones supplied by Tom Beroth. I needed longer bracket to control arm bolts which I got from local True-Value hardware store. All 4 corners need different shims. No grinding was necessary, there's just enough clearance for the rear bolthead. No welding was necessary, thankfully, as welding near fiberglass is hazardous to your car. These upper control arm brackets are quite frankly a godsend. They work as advertized, and then some, (admittedly, a rarity in this business) and make for a trouble free MII based front suspension. It's a shame Ford, or CR didn't think of this. For a hundred bucks, you can't go wrong. As far as I'm concerned these brackets are a MUST for any MII front end car, Street Rod or Cobra. |
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