Fuel tank problem...
 

I have my fuel tank installed but CR has had a problem with their combo sender / pickup . Speedway makes a sender with the proper ohms but the pickup ?? so what if I weld a bung in the lower side of the tank with female NPT and plumb it with a pipe to an fitting . What do you think (DV) anybody done this yet? its actually the only thing holding me from putting the body on.

Wetdog,
What is the problem with the pick-up? The sender /pickup used is a typical GM (Vega?) unit but I can not tell you what year or model. I have gotten some old tanks that had sat around for a while and had collected some moisture in the tanks causing the nylon bag on the end of the pick up to collect rust particles. Another way to go is VDO's adjustable sender, bolts right in and you can adjust them to actually fit the tank perfectly but of course you say the pick up is the problem not the sender.

Adding a different pick up is totally do-able, especially with your talents. May I suggest if you do, do not put the bung in the very bottom of the tank but the front middle of the tank at the bottom with an AR type aircraft fitting.** (You are accustomed to those -no.)? Then you can use braided steel fuel lines to the motor, (3/8's is plenty big enough for a stroker 351) and really be cool and be a perfectionist too! (Don't forget to make provisions for a filter for the pick up on the inside!)

This is really cool, like building another Cobra only by proxy!
DV
** ON the inside-extend the pickup on a semi-flexible tube, extend it to about the midle of the tank, just before the tank takes the slope up and rearward. This way it will always be in fuel. If you really want to be on top of it, use a hollow weight on the very end of the tube (spark proof of course), this will allow the tube to swing in the tank under hard cornering, never coming out of fuel in a auto cross type event.

Hey Wetdog
I am in the same dilema.
where you able to find a fuel sending unit that works?
thanks

Senders are pretty standard with a couple of different ohm ranges. The hole pattern is usually a 1.5" hole with an uneven (fits one way) 5 hole pattern. The tube type senders are supposedly more accurate and have no moving parts, thay would also be good to have a pick up tube alongside. With the lever type rather than having your pick up hang from that and get around the sender and reach the bottom without vibration I'd sure look at the female AN in the bottom front. I just did that with a B&B (LA Exotics) tank and I'm doing the next one for a CCX the same way. What is it about the KISS principle?

Its just to darn simple to be any fun....

I have this product in my car, and it seems to work really well even with a fuel cell.

http://centroidproducts.com/tableofc.htm

The cool thing about this sender is that you can precisely adjust the full and empty level with a tiny screwdriver and they make a sender for either horizontal or vertical mount. Works on pressure not floats which creates the resistance signal to your gauge. They're pretty helpful if you send an email with your particular gauge resistance levels for empty/full.