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Wheel Openings
I've finally got to the point of actually doing the body work. Try as I might I can't get all the wheels centered in the wells. After moving the body around a lot I'm still going to have to rework the right front a little. Is this a common problem? I am working with a 17 year old body but it doesn't seemed to be warped. Never had a fiberglass car before so this may be the norm. Any thoughts from more experienced builders?
Greg |
G:
The mold for the right front IS a 1/2" off. better to square up the body with the firewall and defroster duct or a major nightmare is in the works if you don't! DV |
If the body is not warped, have you tried messing around with the length's of the four link and move the rear end forward and back ? I did with mine but, I really need to shorten the bars a 1/2" or so. Also, make sure the suspension is not binding.
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Kevin,
Your going to make your "wheel track" oblese to makle up for a mold that isn't square? Think about it. Like Cpt Eddie, all four corners are fully adjustable, he can change pinion angles in a second, he can truly do a four wheel alignment, but.... it will have nothing to do with making the body square. Just a thought. DV |
Oh no, that's why I said, "if the body is not,...warped". There's nothing you can do to square up the body other than cut that corner out, and add the amount needed to that wheel well, to be the same on all four corners.
The point I made was how to square the wheels, in the wheel well. Even on mine, after lowering the rear of the car with different coil overs and replacing the heim joints, I think the ride height now is great for me. But, if you see mine in broad side photo, you'll see that my Ford 9" looks too far back, I need to shorten my four bars, to bring the rear end forward apx. 1/2" to 3/4". I would have to take a different angle shot than this pic to show what I mean but, if you look close, you may see how I need to more it forward, just a little. http://i34.tinypic.com/6ykvls.jpg |
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